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TTI headers too close to the passenger side torsion bar

I saw the chart on TTIs web page. How the heck do you measure the center of the crank with the transmission installed?

I may call Schumacher, Classic Industries and a few others to see when the shim packs will be available to order.
 
My double gasket idea dumb on a wedge. Thinking Hemis it would work on them.
 
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just bend those tubes away from the bar a bit . i've had to do that several times with header installs . just need some leverage . a long flat tipped bar and a jack would fix that rub issue . a digger bar works wonders . remember that those tubes were bent into the shape there in .
 
I have new Mity Mounts engine mounts and 2" headers going into 3" collectors. HD torsion bars.

I hear a rattle at idle.

I need some ideas how to fix this.

What are "mity mounts" are they different than stock mounts? looks like the motor is sitting too high, also could be the rear transmission mount raising motor and tranny up causing bar to hit the headers. just a thought
 
Pull the street hookups off and stick a "Johnson bar" in the collector and bend the direction needed for clearance. Mine on my 65 were nowhere close to the trans crossmember cutouts so I "adjusted" them. I got close and welded bends to correct.
Mike
 
If you loosen up the 2 trans mounting bolts and the 2 motor mount to k-frame bolts, you can shift the motor a bit with a big prybar. I bet you will get enough clearance.
 
just bend those tubes away from the bar a bit . i've had to do that several times with header installs . just need some leverage . a long flat tipped bar and a jack would fix that rub issue . a digger bar works wonders . remember that those tubes were bent into the shape there in .
Agree, get in there and "tweak" that ******. Maybe loosen the bolts to the head when you tweak then have a buddy up top crank them down. All you need is an extra 1/8 inch or so.
 
1st: loosen the two big engine to K-frame mount bolts and see if there is just a tiny bit of adjustment in there. If not.....
2nd: loosen the engine mounts on the engine and see if you can gain just a bit of movement. If not....
3rd: Make sure engine is setting close to specs in the K-member. You should measure close to 5 1/4 inches from center of crankshaft to top of K-member. If this looks good....
4th: Last but not least....you may have to "clearance" the new TTI headers. (Last resort please)!
 
The lca shouldn't affect it at all. I would loosen up the trans and engine mounts and see if it will rotate a little bit ccw as seen from the front. It might have stuck a little higher on the passenger side. There's some play but not much. Then slide the tailshaft over. If that doesn't work or you get a driveshaft vibration, a little tweaking with prybar might be appropriate.
If the Mity mounts are the issue, ( https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-t.../anyone-else-using-dynatechs-mitymounts/2481/ ) Check out Brewster's Performance. They have fail safe polyloc's that are IMHO better than the welded screws and are stock thickness. If they carry them for your application. Ihave the Schumacher version of the Mity mounts and will be swapping to the Brewster's in spring.
 
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.......How the heck do you measure the center of the crank with the transmission installed?

Can't you determine center off the crank pulley?
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As for measuring the engine location, I did not think of that @Daves69 . Anyway, it is moot at this point as all I need is to move things about 1/8" to solve the problem.

I'll try loosening the engine mounts and shifting the engine first. If that doesn't work I'll try bending the header.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll be back with an update.
 
Lots of good ideas here. Alignment or changing the ride height shouldn't have anything to do with how close your headers are to the TB.....unless there's something bad wrong with the chassis. Also, minor adjustments in ride height doesn't adversely affect alignment and I'm talking about minor adjustments. Someone thinking that raising the front end 2+" is minor needs their head adjusted or maybe even both of them :D. If you're still using stock alignment specs and running radial tires, it isn't right anyways. My first try would be to 'adjust' the header using a bar. TTI's seem to use a thicker tube?? The set I have are pretty heavy....and might be a bit hard to move. 2nd choice would be to try and clock the engine a hair. Might check to see if the engine is level to start with. Also, is the TB straight? I've seen plenty that weren't. If you put one on V-blocks and then rotate it, I bet it's not all that true and if it could be indexed in the sockets, you might get the clearance you need. I know, you said you didn't want to pull it and I don't blame you for that! :)
 
As for measuring the engine location, I did not think of that @Daves69 . Anyway, it is moot at this point as all I need is to move things about 1/8" to solve the problem.

I'll try loosening the engine mounts and shifting the engine first. If that doesn't work I'll try bending the header.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll be back with an update.
Take a look at that short article. It shows the Mity mounts vs stock. Was that what you saw or were yours the same thickness? Just curious.
 
there you go just bend them a bit , 1/8 is good clearance . as your mounts compress clearance will get better .
 
Take a look at that short article. It shows the Mity mounts vs stock. Was that what you saw or were yours the same thickness? Just curious.
I think they were the same except for the bolt had to be trimmed like the E body article said. I may get some oem mounts to see if they are thinner.
 
I loosened the mount bolts and pried the header over and down then tightened the bolts. No change.

I'll have to see about the stock mount vs the Mity Mount on the passenger's side.
 
call tti and tell them your problem, if it's common or happened before they can help. don't pry or dent the headers, I'm sure they can resolve your problem
 
call tti and tell them your problem, if it's common or happened before they can help. don't pry or dent the headers, I'm sure they can resolve your problem
Right.
The members of FBBO just solved the problem above far quicker than TTI ever would.
It's not that complicated.
TTI and Doug's are about as good as you can get, but they're never perfect, like any aftermarket part.
Tweak that ******.
 
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