66 Charger - input if you have any?

[REcharge]

How did they get in? Exhaust removed? Intake?

As others have said, Mopars will get you upside down in a hurry. Don't take it apart needlessly. Get it running. A/C car makes it worth more, but if the system needs work, it will suck up $$$. 66's are cool - electroluminescent dash, radio and console lighting. All that and the headlight motor system also vacuums cash. Get it to start, stop, turn and try to make money selling it then, leave the details to someone w deeper pockets who knows the market. Don't take it apart needlessly.

But rattle can that green fender grey if it's a 66-67 fender.

The motor is not in, it's on our trailer yet. Covered.. But the plugs were out and you could see a bit of grey around the edges.

 

[REcharge]

Nope.

No 440's in 66 Chargers.

67 is the first year for a 440 powered B body.

Any A or LA small block (373, 318, 360), big block B (361, 383, 400). or big block RB (413, 426, 440) will fit in that engine compartment with no work other than the correct motor mounts, transmission, exhaust, and accessories.

400's and 413's tend to be cheaper as far as big blocks go.

There is an issue with torque converter balance. Suggest you look that up.

318's in good running order can even be free.

I don't see where anyone has mentioned that the VIN of your car tells you what engine it was built with.

Yours starts with XP29. The next letter is the engine size.

There wasn't a half year gap like I've seen on some others? Such that a 66 would have the 67 parts in it?

 

[YY1]

Well, the date code on the casting for a 67 440 would likely be a 1966 date for at least the first several months of the build cycle.

Remember new year models started appearing around September of the previous year back then.

The 440 was available in C body cars in 1966.

...but the OP's car is a 1966 Charger- A B body, and was not available with a 440.

But, as stated earlier it's SUPER easy to tell what engine a classic Mopar was born with.

If the 5th digit of the VIN is an "H".....

Let's just say that beats a 440.

 

[Moparnocar]

I hear you. I am putting up all the money in the end we want to resell it and do it again. I've got a spread sheet and I keep tabs on all expenditures including lunches. The goal is to at least break even. If we can make a couple bucks that's cool too. The budget is whatever it has to be. =)

I read on another forum that they had RV engine's that were also 440s any thoughts on something of that nature? Will it be too different to work?

440 is definitely 1 of the factory engine's that came with these.

I'm curious, can you list what your thinking the bigger items will cost, like this:
1 eng/trans 1000
2. Paint 5000
3. Body work/panels 1000
4 brakes 500

Id like to see your numbers, and what you are thinking on value. Id like to see you pull it off!!

 

[REcharge]

I'm curious, can you list what your thinking the bigger items will cost, like this:
1 eng/trans 1000
2. Paint 5000
3. Body work/panels 1000
4 brakes 500

Id like to see your numbers, and what you are thinking on value. Id like to see you pull it off!!

Engine and transmission - first car in the $500-1000 range that can run. Scrap value after +200
I'm looking at an old motor home with a 440 for $100 right now...
Paint - maybe $0 we'll see how the budget goes on other items.
Body work will be free, we'll be doing it ourselves. - $300 or so for materials though
Depending on the car from above possibly taking the working brakes. If not as you say could be up to $1000

Really shopping the for sale area's and looking to see what we can get to make ours road worthy.

For instance if we find another dodge in worse shape with a working engine and transmission, we clean up our motor and sell the block.

Bottom line I expect to spend $5000 to finish it out we'll see how close I can come to that. If it's over it's over, if it's under then pat on the back for us. ;)

 

[Moparnocar]

Engine and transmission - first car in the $500-1000 range that can run. Scrap value after +200
I'm looking at an old motor home with a 440 for $100 right now...
Paint - maybe $0 we'll see how the budget goes on other items.
Body work will be free, we'll be doing it ourselves. - $300 or so for materials though
Depending on the car from above possibly taking the working brakes. If not as you say could be up to $1000

Really shopping the for sale area's and looking to see what we can get to make ours road worthy.

For instance if we find another dodge in worse shape with a working engine and transmission, we clean up our motor and sell the block.

Bottom line I expect to spend $5000 to finish it out we'll see how close I can come to that. If it's over it's over, if it's under then pat on the back for us. ;)

Sounds good, looks like your in the right track! Make sure to fix headlights and dash lights, that's the first thing people seem to ask about.

 

[REcharge]

Sounds good, looks like your in the right track! Make sure to fix headlights and dash lights, that's the first thing people seem to ask about.

Thanks we'll see what we can do about that. Headlights came with a spare so maybe there's hope there.

 

[Rusty 72]

I'm putting a 5.9L Magnum in my 72 Charger, after my original 318 spun a bearing. The 360 cost me $200 and most of my original 318 parts will bolt right up. The only real cost was the carb intake ( I'm not using the EFI). It should be a real spunky engine also.

Just something for you to keep in mind if that 440's bad.

 

[TN Mopar]

Bottom line I expect to spend $5000 to finish it out we'll see how close I can come to that. If it's over it's over, if it's under then pat on the back for us. ;)

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you won't be able to do ia proper job for that
Sad reality is you picked one of the most expensive muscle cars to restore
The interior pieces are 1st gen Charger only, The EL dash is beautiful but finicky and expensive to repair. The headlight motors will probably need to be rebuilt and the relays replaced.
None of the can be done cheaply yet will have to be done before you can sell it

I have so much money in my Charger but I have done it over time and its the car I owned in high school
As a project to sell I could never justify the money or time spent
Only as a labor of love that will never be sold but passed down to my son
can I come close to justifying it

 

[REcharge]

d

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you won't be able to do ia proper job for that
Sad reality is you picked one of the most expensive muscle cars to restore
The interior pieces are 1st gen Charger only, The EL dash is beautiful but finicky and expensive to repair. The headlight motors will probably need to be rebuilt and the relays replaced.
None of the can be done cheaply yet will have to be done before you can sell it

I have so much money in my Charger but I have done it over time and its the car I owned in high school
As a project to sell I could never justify the money or time spent
Only as a labor of love that will never be sold but passed down to my son
can I come close to justifying it

Only time can tell. Maybe the lights work already. ;)

 

[YY1]

...so on a low budget repair/flip the original condition and original engine become part of the value.

If the body is in good condition except for minor rust and the original paint (kind of looks like it is) is decent- leave it.
That is worth way more to me than a fresh amateur paint job over amateur body work.

Changing the color (especially on a Mopar where the engine compartment is body color) is a bad idea if trying to stay inside a budget.
However, if the engine bay is ugly, repainting it in the correct body color while the engine is out can add significant value.
Conversely- painting it black will turn off a sizable group of potential Mopar buyers

If you have a 383 car (VIN will be XP29G) that is worth more than a 361 or 318 car.

 

[YY1]

I don't see any "383" badges on the fenders, so for the sake of this post we'll assume it's not a 383 car.

Adding a big block to a 318 car can increase the value as can adding a 383 or 440 to a 361 car.

However, a 5.9 magnum swap can add a some "wow, look at that" factor, as well as give equal performance as a stock 383 and get better MPG.

 

[YY1]

Looking back the pics in the OP-

If you can get a good paint match, and can blend, addressing the worst areas (driver's door and fender IIRC) might be a good investment.

As stated earlier working headlights and dash lights are two of the most expensive things on 1st gens.
A potential buyer familiar with these cars will appreciate those things.

I'd also look at redoing the interior.
It's not terribly hard to do, but it intimidates a lot of people.

...and the brakes and suspension.

Possibly consider a limited slip rear end (can be a bolt in).

The temptation will be to get a shiny paint job as shiny cars sell.
See post above.

That car running and driving, with a nice interior, and everything working- priced fairly should sell.

 

[REcharge]

Looking back the pics in the OP-

If you can get a good paint match, and can blend, addressing the worst areas (driver's door and fender IIRC) might be a good investment.

As stated earlier working headlights and dash lights are two of the most expensive things on 1st gens.
A potential buyer familiar with these cars will appreciate those things.

I'd also look at redoing the interior.
It's not terribly hard to do, but it intimidates a lot of people.

...and the brakes and suspension.

Possibly consider a limited slip rear end (can be a bolt in).

The temptation will be to get a shiny paint job as shiny cars sell.
See post above.

That car running and driving, with a nice interior, and everything working- priced fairly should sell.

Thanks for you replies I have a lot of stuff to look into. =) We're looking at the brakes today we'll see where that goes and I got a bit of wait for some responses to inquires on cars so depending on those is where we end up direction wise engine transmission.

 

[Charger Dana]

I’ll add a link here to a previous post I made on these cars. A couple of things:
-On a $5000 ish budget, running driving and pass safety is a good goal. Forget turning headlights, paint and body except your own work. The paint on my car IN A CAN ON THE FLOOR, was around $3000.
-restoring these cars isn’t usually a really true investment, but that’s also the upside. If I go on a trip to Mexico, it’s $3000 and I have a good time for a week and it’s gone. No one complains about that. With cars, you can spend $40,000, enjoy it for years, and STILL sell it for $20,000! Just think of the money you spent as a trip and it doesn’t hurt as much. Enjoy the ride!
-I look at it this way, it’s a hobby too. I did a good job on my car and someday, when I am long gone, someone is going to get a really, really nice car and a piece of preserved American history (likely for a smoking good deal). We are stewards, and anything we do to preserve one more old car is a service to the future.
-So It Begins, 1966 Charger Restification.

 

[BSB67]

If you're doing this for fun, cool. Enjoy.

If your doing it for money, get yourself a part time job at McDonald's. You'll be ahead measured as an hourly rate.

 

[Moparnocar]

Thanks for you replies I have a lot of stuff to look into. =) We're looking at the brakes today we'll see where that goes and I got a bit of wait for some responses to inquires on cars so depending on those is where we end up direction wise engine transmission.

FYI: 66 has a different tourque converter spline than 67 and up. I've got a 66 core for $100, but I'm sure you can find a working one for 50-200 if you keep an eye out.

 

[Don Frelier]

I'm betting the engine he has is newer than a 66.
Probably a 50/50 shot on the trans. 19 spline for 66, 24 spline for newer.
My original 66 torque converter had a pretty low stall speed.

 

[REcharge]

I'm betting the engine he has is newer than a 66.
Probably a 50/50 shot on the trans. 19 spline for 66, 24 spline for newer.
My original 66 torque converter had a pretty low stall speed.

We've got a line on a 71 engine and trans. We'll see if that pans out. Thanks for the info.

The brakes were mostly put together it looks like someone has redone some of them. We're stuck though it's not bleeding very well for some reason seems like it won't go past the block by the cylinder.

 

[Moparnocar]

We've got a line on a 71 engine and trans. We'll see if that pans out. Thanks for the info.

The brakes were mostly put together it looks like someone has redone some of them. We're stuck though it's not bleeding very well for some reason seems like it won't go past the block by the cylinder.

How old are the hoses, just had a 65 newyorker need all hoses, pedal was rock hard