66 Charger - input if you have any?

General Mopar Tech Discussions

  1. REcharge

    REcharge Active Member

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    Georgia and Tennessee before that
     
  2. Tim Bell

    Tim Bell Active Member

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    Trunk, floor pans, cowl (where water runs down windshield leaves or other stuff gets in there and blocks drain. Then as time goes by the sheet metal rusts away.
    Check below batter tray. Acid eats away metal there.
    Make sure the radiator core support is solid and not rusted.
    Pull door panels and clean out leaves and stuff from bottom of doors. There is a drain here that if stopped up causes rust.
    I am not an expert at anything automotive related. You name a common mistake. I have more than likely made it.
     
  3. halojumper

    halojumper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    That might not be bad. Cars from the northern states could have a lot of tin worm. Unless they were garaged, and not driven during winter.
     
  4. halojumper

    halojumper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Check your frame rails, and torsion bar cross member. Rust never sleeps.
     
  5. REcharge

    REcharge Active Member

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    I think 360 is still a small block? Do we think this isn't a 360?
     
  6. halojumper

    halojumper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    If the engine is original and it's a 1966 small block it should be a polyhead A 318, unless somebody swapped an LA 318, or a 360. LA 318 engines replaced the A 318's in 1967, as far as I know. Chicago Blackhawks time. Keep your stick on the ice, and your head up
     
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    • Danny Tuel

      Danny Tuel Member

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      No 440's in 1966 Chargers !!
       
    • halojumper

      halojumper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      361, 383. Did they offer a Hemi in 66 Chargers ?.
       
    • TN Mopar

      TN Mopar Well-Known Member

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      1966 Charger
      318 Poly, 361 2v, 383 4v, 426 Hemi
      For 1967
      318 LA, 383 2v, 383 4v, 440, 426 Hemi
       
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      • YY1

        YY1 Well-Known Member

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        66 and 67 typically don't rust in the trunk or the cowl.

        Quarters right over the wheel arch, right in back and right in front.
        Fenders at the dog leg.

        The kicker- front frame rails between body and shock/torsion bar mounts and trans cross member.
        Check those areas REAL GOOD, all the way around the frame sections.

        I have seen the rear frame near the spring shackle rust out but that is not common.

        Minor rust in the front floor boards is common right over the trans cross member and frame rail.
        Usually doesn't get into the frame rail unless it's constantly wet.
         
        Last edited: Mar 12, 2020
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        • 1danc

          1danc Member

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          Very Cool Cars - I bought my first 1 B4 I had my license and built it in the parents driveway/garage , best advice ? Evaluate - Have Patience - Research - Communicate , if you both decide to go forward with the project , make it run/move & stop 1st - then see where you're at and Re-evaluate ! // I had 2 and they have a special meaning for me , they led me down the Mopar for life path that I'm still on @ 60+ I'm getting out my 70 R/T to get it going again, which might be my last venture - Best of Luck ! - you might want to check the proportioning valve on that brake issue ? It might have got off center if there was someone working on them like you said , it could block either front or rear
           
        • TN Mopar

          TN Mopar Well-Known Member

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          I agree although I would add two
          Drivers floorboard under the gas pedal
          Rocker panels under the stainless
           
        • REcharge

          REcharge Active Member

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          Thanks we'll look at the proportioning valve, we did find 1 bad hose and ordered a replacement so maybe not a waste of time there anyways.
           
        • Don Frelier

          Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          If one hose is bad they should all be replaced, likely all the same age.
           
        • Moparnocar

          Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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          Yes, this just happened to me. They will fail internally, and become basically a one way valve.
           
        • 1danc

          1danc Member

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          Old hoses are definitely an issue , change them ! I miss understood, thought you said they looked replaced, you can re-center valve - remove brake failure light switch and a small pick tool etc will get you down in there to move back to center - it's a small rod w/detent the switch sets down in , you need to center it and hold it there until you have pressure in lines at both front & rear - it's a safety valve to try and save you some brakes, but they will move if being too aggressive bleeding - it thinks there is a leak and slides to close off front or rear - you can look up a diagram to get a better idea what you're working with - good luck
           
        • Moparnocar

          Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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          Interesting...this is the first time I've heard of being able to do that in these, is this only the 66 single master system?
           
        • REcharge

          REcharge Active Member

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          Hey thanks for that. What is the valve called name wise so I can find the diagram? Or if you have a good lead where to find it that would work too.
           
        • Moparnocar

          Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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          I believe hes talking about the proportioning valve. It's that brass block below the master cylinder that the line goes into.
           
        • REcharge

          REcharge Active Member

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          upload_2020-3-13_20-57-36.png
          Ours doesn't look like this. Ours has a bronze block to split and in the documentation I can find it talks about disc brakes and we have drum brakes.
           
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