Nice looking Charger project. Is it mouse free ? If it is the original interior , carpet, ect. should clean up nice from what I can see. Worry about the mechanic end first. Paint and body last. What ever your budget is ........... double it. Hope you guys are still friends when its over. Its a rare pair of buds that can make a deal like that work. Best of luck and I do like that car.
We can't know for sure but they look like they've been replaced and not the originals. Same we get "brakes" about 1/4 down.
Yes mouse free. The inside was done new for the most part there still some bits that need touched up. I don't think it's the original items. For instance the head liner looks literally like it just came off the line.
Secured an engine and transmission today pulled from a 74. Hoping we don't run into a lot of snags there I'm sure they are bound to pop up though.
Quit now to minimize your losses. Buy a nice car and keep up with it …. that will scratch your itch. Classic muscle is really cheap now. The only reason I am saying this is that you will find that it will be a 10-year learning curve to get up to speed in the nuances of restoring a classic Mopar (I own 12). JD
Be aware when considering a motor home motor. The objective was the motor home motor is durable, don't overheat , don't ping and gets some mileage. Some of those motors have small valve heads, low comp, dead cam and a gear drive on the front. They were 100 less horsepower
some MH drivetrains also have short output shaft transmissions and/or transbrakes. can have funky water pumps as well. ...but don't quit. That looks like a fairly solid car. If it were me, I'd keep it. In fact, if you were closer....... It would be a nice stable mate for my YY1 Coronet.
The motor in the last pic (with headers) has a unique air cleaner housing. Taller than normal 318. Is it truck application do you know?
First of all you better be detail oriented. You need to take a lot of pictures, take notes. You will need a service manual, more than one maybe. Everything you take off that car will have to be bagged, and tagged even a small note for what it's function is. Your budget, what time line will it take. It will not be easy. Your determination, and mental toughness will be a determining factor. What part of the project do you have to farm out, and the things you can do yourself. Do not be mesmerised by cheap parts prices, quickie short cuts which you will pay for in the long run. Some people are blessed that they can take a car apart, and put all the various fasteners, and parts into a pile, and get it back together. One more thing the '66, '67 B body parts are sometimes hard to get. They are not as popular as the '68, and up cars. Even though my car is a '67 b body, I bought the fastener reference manual. Some stuff for '68 to '70 will work on '66, '67 b bodies, but not all. Be prepared to be discouraged sometimes. Wars are not bloodless. In the end it depends how deep you want to get into it, a driver, or full on resto. Like other people have said. Don't go in thinking you will make a ton of money if you flip it. Rehabbing a house is probably cheaper haha.
Definitely more profitable as a percentage gain versus cost plus investment. ...although a little more tricky to execute up front.
It's from a 74 charger by all accounts. It does say 74 on the tag printed on the motor listing possible motor applications. Do you have a good link for finding available reference manuals? And thanks for all the advice feel free to chime in more as you see fit. I'm not discouraged still I think I can accomplish a running car if not perfect with the budget I setup.
My book is the plymouth vehicle restoration reference guide, guide to b body fasteners 1968 1970 volume 3 version ten. By Byron Fettig, and David Wise.like I said use this manual carefully some fasteners will work on 66 to 67 B bodies. It's not like there were radical changes to fasteners between 66 to 70. You can find all kinds of auto publications on line. It's just a matter of finding what's pertinent to your car. You will run into all kinds of stuff. If you are going to run a big block you should have a minimum of a 7290 rear pinion yoke, and slip yoke for your transmission/ driveshaft. I believe small block cars had a 7260 rear pinion yoke. If anybody knows more about this jump in, but don't ambush me if I might be wrong on something( I got the aforementioned info from Denneys driveshaft, and Doctor Diff)
Rust! Get it on a lift and check all the usual spots. No sense in spending dollars to make it look pretty and run fast if your foot goes through the floo. Engine: take out the plugs and check if it is froze up. if it turns over by hand you are in luck Get a piggy back fur tank and a fresh battery. See if she spins over. if starter sticks give a few whacks. If not you are in luck. Put the plugs back in and check for spark. if you have spark then hook up to piggy back fuel and give it a go. Have a good fire extinguisher handy do this outside so if it burns it won’t take the house or shop. Dont. Ask me how Iknow this. If it starts you are in luck. No sense in wasting money on new oil before this. If none on stick put some in prior to start try. It gets expensive from here on out
It's pretty rust free for the age. What are the typical spots on these to check? I'll go take pictures of those specifically. Foot for sure isn't going to fall through the floor though I think that was more of a joke. =)
What part of the country did the car come from ? To save yourself a headache if it came with a small block stick with that. Especially if it's your first car. Just saying. I don't want to come across like Drill Instructor Hartman.
