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440/6 Stall, No Restart

Buckeye, what do you mean "center carb had gas coming out of jets"? Do you mean accelerator pump shooter, venturi boosters or ??? May have a bad needle/seat & intermittent float level issue.

when running, if fuel is seen dripping from venturi, the fuel level is way to high in float bowl. whether the needle is stuck or dirt stuck in it or float is bad or stuck, that could cause this. after engine sits and fuel evaporates then it would restart. usually when you go all in on a 6 bbl there is a sometimes a lean spike which may explain why engine would come to life with full throttle, which you described, and then have the problems with excessive fuel.
 
It didn't seam like it was dripping, it was a steady squirt every press of the gas pedal, before it started up again anyway. Also, these are the plugs just removed. Oriented with left being front of engine. Thoughts other than insane corrosion?

20200502_140847.jpg
 
It didn't seam like it was dripping, it was a steady squirt every press of the gas pedal, before it started up again anyway. Also, these are the plugs just removed. Oriented with left being front of engine. Thoughts other than insane corrosion?

View attachment 944642
Yeah, looks rich. But that wouldn’t cause what you describe.
 
It didn't seam like it was dripping, it was a steady squirt every press of the gas pedal, before it started up again anyway. Also, these are the plugs just removed. Oriented with left being front of engine. Thoughts other than insane corrosion?

View attachment 944642

So, that squirt is from the accelerator pump squirter (shooter), not "jets". Plugs look like rich carb or weak ignition. Take a hard look at the bulkhead connector, where wires go through the firewall. Look for corrosion & clean.
 
When the symptom occurs, you IMMEDIATELY have to see if you have spark. Process of elimination. No spark = electrical. Don't touch anything and go right to the plug wire at the plug.
 
The plugs look rich from it being cranked and not firing.
This sounds like electrical and heat related.
Coils are cheap. And mounting them on the intake doesn't help.
 
When the symptom occurs, you IMMEDIATELY have to see if you have spark. Process of elimination. No spark = electrical. Don't touch anything and go right to the plug wire at the plug.
Since it was a short notice thing I tried the screwdriver check and 2 wires on the plug end didn't spark. When I started it days later all wires sparked.
 
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The plugs look rich from it being cranked and not firing.
This sounds like electrical and heat related.
Coils are cheap. And mounting them on the intake doesn't help.
The Blaster 2 coil is mounted on the passenger side inner fender. I myself didn't mount it there but I've seen plenty that are. Is that still too close to heat?
 
It shouldn't be. It's cooler than the intake for sure.
 
Busy day today but I snapped pictures of the bulkhead connector and ballast resistor for scrutiny-sake. I'll try to see if there is any arcing when it gets dark tonight.

20200503_160717.jpg 20200503_160725.jpg
 
The normal issue with the bulkhead connector is not arching, it's corrosion in the male/female plugs. You need to pull it apart & clean the contacts. In my experience a ballast resistor is good or bad, not intermittent. A simple check with a VOM meter tells you if the resistor is bad. Check the plug on the ECU & the ECU pins for corrosion. The ECU needs a GOOD ground. I sanded the ECU case at the mount hole & ran a separate ground wire to a a really good ground source. Still make sure your float levels aren't going goofy.
 
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