That would be awesome if you could send a photo im actually having the same issue shifting into 3rd too soon. I dont drive it very often and only had about 300 miles on it since the engine has been rebuilt. I just bought the adapter before I saw this message but a picture would be awesome just so I can compare!My new 63 Sport Fury has a replacement 400 with Edelbrock 1407 4bbl. I now realize that the transmission rod is the original Plymouth. I struggled to obtain enough length to direct the 727 properly; it would shift into 3rd by 20mph and no kick down. I was about to bend the entire rod to lengthen, then noted on the Edelbrock site, a MOPAR adapter: really just a lenght of rod and a hexagonal turnbuckle that, when twisted, shortened or lengthened. Not bad price, but I went to my local hardware store, purchased the correct 1/4" x 28tpi turnbuckle, and since no rod was available, bought a bolt and cut off the head. Bingo: adjustable shift points and kick-down. On the original cars, there s a"V" bracket that prevents sideways movement of the control rod. I need one of those, now too. Can send photo if you need.
Could you show me what this would look like? What is WOT? Sorry for the questions, my wife inherited the 66 charger from her dad and im not super savvy when it comes to mechanical stuff on these old girls, but I can detail the **** out of them.A common problem, even when the bracket is “correct” is the the distance from the centerline of the throttle shaft to the attachment point is different on the new carbs than the factory carbs. The old radius was 1.125”, typical Holley replacements are 1.5, not unlikely the Edelbrock is too. That means you have too much throw and when set to bottom out at WOT it leaves it far too lax for the whole early part of the motion. Best to measure that distance and drill a new hole in the right place. I have done this and it works soooo much better.
Luckily I have a 65 fury here with a 318 poly and I think i know what you are saying now, with the edelbrok it seems where the throttle cable hooks to on the carb would be the place you would want it. I just looked at the fury 318 which is stock, and the kickdown and throttle cable are parallel to one another. I feel with the edelbrock if you were to do that, it would almost be too high of a "pivot" to attach it there.A common problem, even when the bracket is “correct” is the the distance from the centerline of the throttle shaft to the attachment point is different on the new carbs than the factory carbs. The old radius was 1.125”, typical Holley replacements are 1.5, not unlikely the Edelbrock is too. That means you have too much throw and when set to bottom out at WOT it leaves it far too lax for the whole early part of the motion. Best to measure that distance and drill a new hole in the right place. I have done this and it works soooo much better.
Thank you for this, ill be getting that bracket hopefully by Wednesday and doing some tinkering!In this first picture I’m showing a 1971 carter AVS and the distance from the throttle shaft to the Cable and linkage attachment point.View attachment 957712
figuring that the distance required to go from idle to WOT is related to the circumference of the circle it goes on, that 1.2” radius is proportional to that distance. Inside the transmission the shift points move based on the compression of a spring between the kickdown valve and the throttle valve. It’s designed to work with that throttle cable movement distance, ending with the kickdown linkage almost bottomed out.View attachment 957718
Here’s a typical Holley with the correct bracket they sell for Chrysler products. See that hole above where the throttle is actually hooked up? That’s the hole they give you. It’s 1.5” from the shaft centerline. If you set the kickdown linkage to almost bottom out at WOT it’s pulled MUCH farther forward when at idle, this is because of that larger radius.
Part throttle acceleration isn’t much different than idle so the kickdown linkage with that outer hole position hasn’t moved to even where it would be at idle with the correct radius. The solution is to drill a new hole in the aftermarket arm that’s the same distance as the factory hole (like was done in the second photo). This allows the kickdown linkage to be compressed the right amount and the shifts to happen at higher points.
In this first picture I’m showing a 1971 carter AVS and the distance from the throttle shaft to the Cable and linkage attachment point.View attachment 957712
figuring that the distance required to go from idle to WOT is related to the circumference of the circle it goes on, that 1.2” radius is proportional to that distance. Inside the transmission the shift points move based on the compression of a spring between the kickdown valve and the throttle valve. It’s designed to work with that throttle cable movement distance, ending with the kickdown linkage almost bottomed out.View attachment 957718
Here’s a typical Holley with the correct bracket they sell for Chrysler products. See that hole above where the throttle is actually hooked up? That’s the hole they give you. It’s 1.5” from the shaft centerline. If you set the kickdown linkage to almost bottom out at WOT it’s pulled MUCH farther forward when at idle, this is because of that larger radius.
Part throttle acceleration isn’t much different than idle so the kickdown linkage with that outer hole position hasn’t moved to even where it would be at idle with the correct radius. The solution is to drill a new hole in the aftermarket arm that’s the same distance as the factory hole (like was done in the second photo). This allows the kickdown linkage to be compressed the right amount and the shifts to happen at higher points.
I just posted a video on you tube not sure if you are able to help me out a bit and seeing if I adjusted it right. I know you had suggested drilling a hole.
Video helps. Had something very similar recently. Same description, almost exactly. Problem was as I described. Picture it this way, if the throttle lever on the carb was 4” long the cable simply wouldn’t have enough travel to pull it all the way open. Also for most of the time the kickdown wouldn’t be compressed enough. As the radius from pivot to connection point gets smaller it takes less cable motion to pull it open and with the same WOT reference point (floored) for the kickdown the linkage is more compressed more of the time.
I’d have someone floor it and you look at the carb. I’m betting it’s not opening all the way. The way I fixed it was drilling that hole closer to the pivot. Being closer to the pivot it now needs less cable motion to get to WOT. And the kickdown is more compressed more of the time.
The KD band first.
Mike
Inhave the service manual, it says to loosen the lock nut 4 or 5 turns and checknto see if the adjustment screw turns freely, then torque down to 72 inch pounds if you don't have the adapter from Chrysler. Thats what it says in the manual anyway. Not sure after you check to see if the adjustment screw turns freely if you tighten the lock nut and then torque the adjustment screw? Its not specific in that regard, im guessing not or it would say so.Both need to be right to get very far so I can’t disagree with this. Do you know what to do with it?
Inhave the service manual, it says to loosen the lock nut 4 or 5 turns and checknto see if the adjustment screw turns freely, then torque down to 72 inch pounds if you don't have the adapter from Chrysler. Thats what it says in the manual anyway. Not sure after you check to see if the adjustment screw turns freely if you tighten the lock nut and then torque the adjustment screw? Its not specific in that regard, im guessing not or it would say so.