Breake in oil.

[ddpsnake]

I like Joe Gibbs but its has bin a few years so i don't know what weight to get, its for my new 360, and it will be fired up March or April if it matters.Happy new year to you all.

 

[BAFRAID]

Following. I had my 383 magnum rebuilt about three years ago and it’s been sitting on a rack ever since. It’s completely sealed up however I was recently thinking about what the process is and the oil to use is to get it broken in.

 

[33 IMP]

You will get great advice to use a dedicated break-in oil. That is the best choice. Weight depends on weather temperature and bearing clearances.
However, there are other methods. I broke in a 440 with a .557 purple shaft, without trouble. I used mostly what i had around the garage. I was gifted a couple cases of old, heavily loaded with zinc, racing oil. Unfortunately it is also mostly very heavy weight. I used a couple quarts, along with diesel oil supposed to have zinc in it still, with a seperate break-in additive. I had lots of diesel oil for my pickup, i buy all i can when its on sale (11 qts per oil change).
Apparently this hobo stew worked okay too. But i used this because i had 60 or 70 quarts of it on hand. The proper break-in oil is a better choice.

 

[69Bee]

Depends on your engine clearances. Tighter clearances will use BR30 (10W30) and for looser clearances, go with BR (15W50). After break-in, change the filter, and per Joe Gibbs, the oil can be used for 400 miles to aid ring seating, but not longer than 30 days. After that, you have the choice of: HR2 (10W30), HR5 (10W40), or HR1 (15W50).

 

[BAFRAID]

Depends on your engine clearances. Tighter clearances will use BR30 (10W30) and for looser clearances, go with BR (15W50). After break-in, change the filter, and per Joe Gibbs, the oil can be used for 400 miles to aid ring seating, but not longer than 30 days. After that, you have the choice of: HR2 (10W30), HR5 (10W40), or HR1 (15W50).

Im not well educated on lower end engine rebuilds. Would “tighter clearances” mean closer to standard vs bored out Being looser?

 

[slepr1]

Following. I had my 383 magnum rebuilt about three years ago and it’s been sitting on a rack ever since. It’s completely sealed up however I was recently thinking about what the process is and the oil to use is to get it broken in.

I would suggest you consider getting your 383 broken in on a dyno or a break-in stand. Since it sat for a few years if any seal or gasket ends up leaking you will save yourself a huge headache and costs. Around here one could break in their engine on a stand or dyno for $200 (extra for dyno pulls). I got my new 440 broken in and dyno'd for $500.

 

[69Bee]

Im not well educated on lower end engine rebuilds. Would “tighter clearances” mean closer to standard vs bored out Being looser?

For rods 0.0010" to about 0.0015" and mains 0.0010" to 0.0020" would be in the tighter tolerance area (on or close to stock). If rods are 0.0015" to 0.0025" and mains 0.0020" to 0.0030" or 0.0035" then you would be on the loose side. The biggest thing is you want the oil wedge to lift the crank and rods up so that they ride on a film of oil. If the clearance is too small for the weight of oil to easily support the crank and rods, metal to metal contact will result. Too large of a clearance and too thin an oil, and the oil will squeeze out and not support the crank and rods.

 

[33 IMP]

Im not well educated on lower end engine rebuilds. Would “tighter clearances” mean closer to standard vs bored out Being looser?

"Bored out" doesnt really have anything to do with clearances, technically it just means the cylinders have been bored oversize. You could have a .030 over engine with cast pistons at .001 piston to wall, or a forged piston with as much as .010, ten times as much.
But usually, loose or tight refers to rod and main bearing clearance. Usually, the higher rpm the build is intended for, the looser the lower end usually is (or, was. That seems to be changing).
If your engine was rebuilt properly, with proper clearances, it is hard to go much wrong with 15w-40. Unless, of course, its -15°f when you break it in!

 

[BDF6]

Find your clearances and go from there for viscosity.
I like Driven oils also. 10k+ miles on stroked RB & no problems.

 

[ddpsnake]

well going with what the engine builder says, cant remember the name of it but 13 a quart something call maxamin .