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Un-even front end height - 66 Satellite

AR67GTX

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Just received a new-to-me 66 Satellite and they have 235/70-15 tires mounted on it all around that are hitting the wheel lip trim when turning to lock. Front end is sitting to low anyway so jacked it up and planned to crank the torsion bars up a couple turns. Got under it and one adjuster was sitting about where you would expect in under the circumstances but the left side was completely bottomed out and it was sitting lower than the other side.

So, back the adjusters all the way out and pulled the left torsion bar out and measured diameter compared to the other - all good. Torsion bar with suspension hanging at full drop slides directly into the lower control arm and the cross member register easily - nothing seemed mis-clocked. Carefully screwed the adjusters in until they they just seated in the lug socket with the nut bar lightly touching the upper a-arm opening (the flat side) Then I screwed them further in until the nut bar lightly seated in the curved seat of the a-arm opening (both sides look about the same as far as bolt adjustment at this point) and then cranked in seven turns on both sides to pre-load and dropped the car back down. It's still too low but I have a fair amount of adjustment left on both sides so may be OK. But the left side is still sitting almost a full inch lower than the right side. Seems like a lot of difference after carefully preloading both sides the same number of adjuster turns. Am I wrong on this?

I should have examined everything closer before I backed the adjusters out - I'm thinking the bottomed side - they may have missed the socket in the a-arm lug completely and had the nut bar cocked in the opening. But no way of knowing now.

My understanding - as long as the front is in full droop on both sides and the bar clocks in the a-arm and the cross member without any lifting the a-arm up or anything - the torsion bars can't be mis-clocked or installed incorrectly. Is this correct or is their something I'm missing?
 
Have the lower control arm bushings been replaced?
 
Are the torsion bar cross member sockets sound or have they broke loose from rust and spun?
 
The body/frame could have a slight twist in it, plus the tolerances aren't that great from new anyway.
Maybe there was a 300 lbs owner for 40 years, or too many hard launches?
1" doesn't sound too bad - mine are turned in slightly different amounts to get it level. If you check the advice above and it's all fine, I would just crank that side up a few more turns.
 
The body/frame could have a slight twist in it, plus the tolerances aren't that great from new anyway.
Maybe there was a 300 lbs owner for 40 years, or too many hard launches?
1" doesn't sound too bad - mine are turned in slightly different amounts to get it level. If you check the advice above and it's all fine, I would just crank that side up a few more turns.
Hey you ain't talking about me!:lol:Are you.
 
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Everything looks real solid, clean and straight - but I just received the car so I'll have to do some more inspection. I suspect the lower control arm bushings have not been replaced but not sure.
 
If they have not been replaced then I would recommend that being done. The adjustments aren't necessarily the same side to side. I get a starting adjustment (approximate ride height) then let the car down and measure from the top of the wheel wells on each side to the ground. Make adjustments as necessary to level the car. Also it's important that all 4 tires are properly inflated. This can make more difference than you think.
 
My lower control arm bushings looked OK until I pulled the arms out! Wow, the bushings were trashed.
Mike
 
Like these Mike...
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I don't ever think to take pictures like that. I put new lower control arm bushings in 3 pairs last week. I have 2 more sets without sway bar tabs that need doing, but when the hotchkis tabs come in, I will tackle those and add the tabs. Also installed one of the 3 sets on one of my GTX'S.
 
OK - got the car raised back up about 1-3/4 inches. Sounds like a lot but it was sitting real low and the 235/70-15 tires that the car has were hitting the wheel trim at lock. Also, although I bounced the front some to settle it, it hasn't been rolled to let the tires adjust. Still ended up with the driver side bottomed out but it did adjust a lot higher so I'm pretty sure the adjuster was not engaged correctly in the a-arm lug or toggle. Probably around 3/4 inch adjustment left on the other side. So still seems like a big difference. I can't tell anything about the lower bushing in an installed condition but from the looks of the ball joints and tie rods I think a front end rebuild is in my future so maybe what's going on will become apparent then.

Thanks
 
OK - got the car raised back up about 1-3/4 inches. Sounds like a lot but it was sitting real low and the 235/70-15 tires that the car has were hitting the wheel trim at lock. Also, although I bounced the front some to settle it, it hasn't been rolled to let the tires adjust. Still ended up with the driver side bottomed out but it did adjust a lot higher so I'm pretty sure the adjuster was not engaged correctly in the a-arm lug or toggle. Probably around 3/4 inch adjustment left on the other side. So still seems like a big difference. I can't tell anything about the lower bushing in an installed condition but from the looks of the ball joints and tie rods I think a front end rebuild is in my future so maybe what's going on will become apparent then.

Thanks
One or two drives will tell the tale. It won't take long for a lower control arm bushing to start letting the car sag again. Just hope the side that's already adjusted all the way in doesn't fail completely while driving. Best of luck.
 
Also make sure that the tires are the same brand and model. Tire dimensions vary from brand to brand. Only the load carrying capacity has to be the same between brands. Some brands use wider sidewalls and others have wider treads. + or - 6%
 

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When I freshly rebuilt my suspension (all new everything including springs) I had a similar problem, turned out to be the leaf springs. My problem however was noticeable in the rear as well but more readily noticeable in the front. I had somehow gotten 2 different height springs.
 
You can certainly inspect the LCA pivot bushing installed enough to know they aren't centered anymore or the rubber is deteriorated...
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Wonder if someone changed the bars or just one?

Fran - I did measure them and both were .92+ so seem to be a pair. I do wonder if maybe they lost track of which was left and right at some point and switched positions. I've heard that's not a wise thing to do but not real sure of the consequences.
 
What I could see of the LCA bushing they actually looked pretty good - but I'm not confident I could see enough to really evalutate them. From the ball joints and tie rod ends appearance I'm going to plan to rebuild the front end sometime this year.
 
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