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How to Confirm Authenticity of a Vehicle...

P-38Sam

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Hi,
I am new to this site and looking to purchase my first Mopar.
From what I know, you can tell if a car is correct by the fender tag, VIN, engine block number.
Is this information good enough for verification?

Is there something else that I can to to verify a car is what it says it is?

I see a Road Runner looks just like a GTX, except for a few details. But, how can I confirm that somebody didn't take a Road Runner, put a 440 in it, slap some GTX decals on the side and say, hey I have a GTX!

Thanks for the help from the new guy.
Sam
 
There (usually) is a plate on the left front area of the fender under the hood. The info can be de-coded to verify. Also the serial number on the left front of the dash that you should be able to see through the window. However, because some models are the same body with different trim, you essentially have the same car minus the high performance stuff. Some folks like myself, couldn't afford a real Road Runner, so I have a clone which was MUCH cheaper.
:lol:
 
There (usually) is a plate on the left front area of the fender under the hood. The info can be de-coded to verify. Also the serial number on the left front of the dash that you should be able to see through the window. However, because some models are the same body with different trim, you essentially have the same car minus the high performance stuff. Some folks like myself, couldn't afford a real Road Runner, so I have a clone which was MUCH cheaper.
:lol:

Thanks for the reply. And I can use sites that help decode the tags and block numbers to help with the identification, correct?
 
Thanks for the reply. And I can use sites that help decode the tags and block numbers to help with the identification, correct?
Absolutely. There are also quite a few guys on this site who can help you decode the vehicle. There are also a couple places on some vehicles that the factory punched in the serial numbers on, depending on the car.
 
Sometimes you can find one of these in an old Mopar... broadcast sheet:
faa85d_e596b08470064c05bd17d6f022fa76bb_mv2.jpg
 
There (usually) is a plate on the left front area of the fender under the hood. The info can be de-coded to verify. Also the serial number on the left front of the dash that you should be able to see through the window. However, because some models are the same body with different trim, you essentially have the same car minus the high performance stuff. Some folks like myself, couldn't afford a real Road Runner, so I have a clone which was MUCH cheaper.
:lol:


But, the thing that I just found out, and wondered about, is people reproduce the fender tags. Whaaa!? So, is there a way to confirm the fender tag is authentic?
Think I need to call Columbo!
 
What is the second letter in the VIN? A Roadrunner starts with RM... A GTX starts with RS...
 
You mentioned Roadrunner / GTX so we’re running with that. Earlier years are different depending on the year. If you end up looking at a particular car give us the details “it’s a ‘70 SuperBee” and we can lay out what to look for more specifically. That way you can ask the right questions / look at the right stuff.
 
You mentioned Roadrunner / GTX so we’re running with that. Earlier years are different depending on the year. If you end up looking at a particular car give us the details “it’s a ‘70 SuperBee” and we can lay out what to look for more specifically. That way you can ask the right questions / look at the right stuff.

Man, you guys are awesome. I for sure send you guys the numbers. I've done some checking on the fender tags. But, some of the numbers I don't understand, yet.

Thanks for being so helpful guys!!!
 
Man, you guys are awesome. I for sure send you guys the numbers. I've done some checking on the fender tags. But, some of the numbers I don't understand, yet.

Thanks for being so helpful guys!!!


PS - Right now I am torn between a 1970 GTX or 69 Dodge Super Bee.
 
Super Bee VIN should start with WM. A Coronet R/T Would start with WS....

Might be noticing a pattern...

M = Medium = Roadrunner & Super Bee
S= Special = GTX & R/T


Which brings us to P-38. IE the twin boom fighter? Or the can opener? Or the Walther?
 
Super Bee VIN should start with WM. A Coronet R/T Would start with WS....

Might be noticing a pattern...

M = Medium = Roadrunner & Super Bee
S= Special = GTX & R/T


Which brings us to P-38. IE the twin boom fighter? Or the can opener? Or the Walther?


Oh, nice. Thanks for the info on the M and S. M = chassis size or engine size?
S = 440 motor?

P-38 twin boom. My dad was stationed in Santa Maria during the war and it was a training base for P-38's. When he showed me a pic of the plane i was hooked. Would not have wanted to be in front of one of those in battle.
 
PS - Right now I am torn between a 1970 GTX or 69 Dodge Super Bee.
Ok quick start.

70 GTX
VIN RS23U0G###### is likely.
R mid size Plymouth
S GTX
2 doors
3 hardtop
U 440 mag, V for 6-BBL, R for hemi
0 1970
G (or other letter for manf plant)
###### sequence number

“0G######” should be stamped on top or front of radiator support near driver’s side of radiator. Also should be stamped on trunk rail under gasket for deck lid on driver’s side.
Original engine will have this stamped on passenger side right above oil pan rail below engine mount.
Original tranny will have this stamped on pad on passenger side (4-speed) and above oil pan seam (auto).

69 Bee
WM21M9A######
W mid size dodge
M super bee
2 door
1 pillar coupe (3 = hardtop)
M = 440-6 pack, H = 383, J = hemi
9 1969
A = manf plant
Etc
 
Ok quick start.

70 GTX
VIN RS23U0G###### is likely.
R mid size Plymouth
S GTX
2 doors
3 hardtop
U 440 mag, V for 6-BBL, R for hemi
0 1970
G (or other letter for manf plant)
###### sequence number

“0G######” should be stamped on top or front of radiator support near driver’s side of radiator. Also should be stamped on trunk rail under gasket for deck lid on driver’s side.
Original engine will have this stamped on passenger side right above oil pan rail below engine mount.
Original tranny will have this stamped on pad on passenger side (4-speed) and above oil pan seam (auto).

69 Bee
WM21M9A######
W mid size dodge
M super bee
2 door
1 pillar coupe (3 = hardtop)
M = 440-6 pack, H = 383, J = hemi
9 1969
A = manf plant
Etc


Man, this is great. Just what I need. Awesome. I know I will probably ask some more newbie questions. Thanks for being patient!

Sam
 
Ok quick start.

70 GTX
VIN RS23U0G###### is likely.
R mid size Plymouth
S GTX
2 doors
3 hardtop
U 440 mag, V for 6-BBL, R for hemi
0 1970
G (or other letter for manf plant)
###### sequence number

“0G######” should be stamped on top or front of radiator support near driver’s side of radiator. Also should be stamped on trunk rail under gasket for deck lid on driver’s side.
Original engine will have this stamped on passenger side right above oil pan rail below engine mount.
Original tranny will have this stamped on pad on passenger side (4-speed) and above oil pan seam (auto).

69 Bee
WM21M9A######
W mid size dodge
M super bee
2 door
1 pillar coupe (3 = hardtop)
M = 440-6 pack, H = 383, J = hemi
9 1969
A = manf plant
Etc

Good info & mostly spot on.... The one point...

“0G######” should be stamped

For whatever reason Mopar transposed the first two so instead of 0G it'll be G0...
 
Man, this is great. Just what I need. Awesome. I know I will probably ask some more newbie questions. Thanks for being patient!

Sam


For the Super Bee, is the “0G######” the VIN or stamped near the radiator?
Just making sure I understand.
Thank you.
 
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