Got this 440 block that is .060 over bored. Is there any demand for a block like this? I would think sleeving would not be cost effective. Not a HP block.
440 Block .060 over
- Thread starter randys4406
- Start date
Curiousyellow71
Well-Known Member
Is it needing bored again? For Most things .060 is ok. Are the pistons gone?. You never know how thick the walls are until it's checked or it's a roll of the dice. Hp is just a stamp...its kinda cool to say it's a hp...but it really makes no difference.
Have it sconic checked to make sure there is no core shift. A .060 over block is near the end of it's lifespan. Sleeving can be done but just adds to the cost. It has value but not a lot. Catch my drift?
Block has been setting for a while. No pistons and the walls are rusty. Not looking to use it . Just wanted to see if it was worth trying to sell. Probably will post some pictures and a price to see if there is any interest. Thanks to all that replied.
gkent
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with .060 over unless you plan to race it consistently. Otherwise, normal use and the occasional blast should be no problem. Would I "buy" a .060 over block - not likely. Would I "bore" one to .060 ... sure - if a sonic check showed sufficient wall thickness.
If it's already .060 over and is all rusted up it isn't worth much.
Clean it up and make a nice coffee table base.
I got a better idea. Paint it hemi orange. Set it on the living room floor next to your easy chair. Fill with ice. Have the valley pan in place, to set your cold beer down while the other seven are still sitting inside the cylinders.
Curiousyellow71
Well-Known Member
If it needs bored again...its likely a coffee table...worth what it weighs. 8 sleeves is going to be a minimum of $800 at a machine shop...but 440s are getting harder to find. Someday it may be a good rebuilder to someone.
When there aren't many blocks left. The price gets to the point that sleeves are cheaper than blocks, then it will be worth something.
71gtx471
Well-Known Member
A fully sleeved block is more ridged & all the bores will be centered now,square the block off & you have one hell of a building block.
I went to San Antonio TX to pick up a 71 HP block that's date code correct for my car,the guy gave it to me because it needs sleeves some of the wrist pins walked out & where kissing the walls,it was an early strocker build with 400 pistons & welded crank,ironically a friend of mine gave me 7 sleeves recently.
I went to San Antonio TX to pick up a 71 HP block that's date code correct for my car,the guy gave it to me because it needs sleeves some of the wrist pins walked out & where kissing the walls,it was an early strocker build with 400 pistons & welded crank,ironically a friend of mine gave me 7 sleeves recently.
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BB BELLA
Well-Known Member
I have one that is core filled! was built for serious strip car and machine clearanced to swing a stroker crank! I just used the internals from it. the block will likely sit in my shop forever unless I come across a serious mopar drag racer! I pulled one of the frost plugs and tried a few chemicals on the core fill to see if i could find something that would soften it, no luck with that!
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Some .060 are just fine. If it's got some rust, maybe take it to .065. But I sure would sonic check it. I have .060 440 block in my car now. Good luck.
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Agreed, I would have no problem running it another .005 as long as it sonic checks still with a decent thickness left. Custom pistons can be made from several sources like Mahle, Diamond, Gibtec, Ross, JE Wiseco etc. I have a +.060 over 440 going on 50,000+ miles on it.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I should have said, my '66 Satellite had a 500" .065 combination in it. It was fine, although I didn't drive or run it much. If the block is good .060 or .065 is fine.
If you are starting with a bare block, sonic testing will tell you the answer.
If you are starting with a bare block, sonic testing will tell you the answer.
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