69 Sleeper Bee
Well-Known Member
Also this picture bothers me because there should be all Pressure treated wood against any CMU because of condensation
Any Construction Experts , Home Builders
- Thread starter Bee1971
- Start date
It is DOUBLED over both Windows - 2"X 10" Rim Joists
I tried showing that in the pictures
"What everyone thinks are headers are there only to nail the window and plywood to and the sheet rock on the inside so not structural but they have warped bad for some reason. Could be crappy wood or a moisture over time problem.
Edit: Or they could have been that way all along but covered by the paneling, just a cheap way to frame IMHO"
Interesting
Thanx Scott
Edit: Or they could have been that way all along but covered by the paneling, just a cheap way to frame IMHO"
Interesting
Thanx Scott
Even though there is no header, is it possible the windows were never installed properly, and they're just self destructing ? If the weight was bearing down, to warp them, I would think they'd be cracking ? Consider pulling them, install a header properly, and maybe use smaller windows, to accommodate the lost space. Where's Sobieski, maybe someone could swing by ?
69 Sleeper Bee
Well-Known Member
Do you have any pictures of the windows from before starting this project?
I have replaced window inner jamb trim before and found shims because the framing was so wonky.
I have replaced window inner jamb trim before and found shims because the framing was so wonky.
69 Sleeper Bee
Well-Known Member
I mean pictures of those windows and how they were trimmed from the inside the way it was when you bought the house.
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
If you have two rim joists supporting over the windows then your fine provided that they are well nailed together and this makes a flush header/beam . That is standard framing practice perfectly good to code which allows for more window space. (That is 44yrs of construction talking)
Thank You !!!
I gathered that from 69 Sleeper Bee also in his one post
That would explain ALL the floor joists LEVEL
Then onto the wood puzzle above and below the windows if anything
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
Also, you do not want pressure treated lumber for framing. There should be vapor barrier between the concrete and the wood.
Tell that to construction companies in Hawaii.
44 years of construction....
All throughout my career, I ran into guys doing stuff wrong while saying "I've always done it this way".
Here in earthquake and fire country, you do not omit headers over openings.
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
The doubling of a rim joist is the exact same thing as a header just in a different location.
You can also keep your insults to yourself.
You can also keep your insults to yourself.
Last edited:
69 Sleeper Bee
Well-Known Member
We also do solid headers over any openings here in Florida but for the hurricanes even if there is a second floor system above framed like the OP’s house is.
The "exact same thing" by definition means identical in every way.
The method you described is not the same. It may support the load but it is not the "exact same thing".
Keep it up, The more you reveal yourself, the less sense you make.
A "header" in the most traditional sense is a solid timber or a manufactured, laminated beam.
I have seen 2X material sandwiched together with nails or bolts holding them together but that is often the practice of someone used to doing shortcuts. Nothing beats a solid chunk of wood for strength.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
accept maybe a steel beam..
I'm with KD on this. I've drywalled
hundreds of homes and have never
seen this practice of laying "flat"
lumber over any opening of this size.
It needs to be supported in the center.
Natural deflection of the wood will
occur if it's just supported on the ends,
even if there is no weight, or moisture
causing the deflection. It's taken 23
years for this wood to deflect to this
point. It's not going to stop deflecting,
and could progress into something
much worse unless it's fixed. What
you have there is poor framing
practices.
hundreds of homes and have never
seen this practice of laying "flat"
lumber over any opening of this size.
It needs to be supported in the center.
Natural deflection of the wood will
occur if it's just supported on the ends,
even if there is no weight, or moisture
causing the deflection. It's taken 23
years for this wood to deflect to this
point. It's not going to stop deflecting,
and could progress into something
much worse unless it's fixed. What
you have there is poor framing
practices.
69 Sleeper Bee
Well-Known Member
LOL
I'm sure your building codes are different than what we are all talking about.
I am leaning towards the framing over the windows was like that from the get go and the trim guys worked their magic and covered up the framing.
Yup. What Wojo said. You need a solid piece of wood above the window spanning the length, or at least two pieces nailed together with 16 d nails. The two pieces need to stand horizontally, not flat like the 2x4's you have now.
Put a temp beam and posts to jack up the joists taking the weight off over the window, sawzall/chizel the wood out, and insert a proper header. It will still be an undersized header for the span, but better than what you have. The rim joist and double top plate is carrying a lot of load so I think it should be ok.
If the double top plate and rim joist is not sagging, you might be able to do this without shoring up the joists.
Put a temp beam and posts to jack up the joists taking the weight off over the window, sawzall/chizel the wood out, and insert a proper header. It will still be an undersized header for the span, but better than what you have. The rim joist and double top plate is carrying a lot of load so I think it should be ok.
If the double top plate and rim joist is not sagging, you might be able to do this without shoring up the joists.
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