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The return of MAXIMVS...

Max is looking good with a fresh coat... Picking him up tomorrow afternoon.

Chuck (snook)

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Updates:
- Pick up pushed off until this upcoming Monday. They had to paint some trunk channel spots and it needs to cure for a day or so; also hood needs to be drilled for the PLYMOUTH emblem letters after paint. Will be home after noon on Monday, looking forward to it. I'll post some pics when he's home.
- Ordering mufflers, I picked out Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Mufflers PN# 17233, seem to have good reviews at Summit
- On the fence about using electric motor exhaust cut-outs. Any opinions are appreciated.

Chuck (snook)
 
I had a set of Ultraflows on my 528, they sounded awesome, you might not even want the cutouts after you hear them.
 
Updates:
- Got the 4 post Backyard Buddy lift installed and it's a game changer for an old dude like me. No more crawling around on the floor setting 2 post arms... really nice unit.
- Went to the Brighton Seminole Casino to get away for a few hours and won $6000. That will be enough to take care of the exhaust system, D60 gear and sure-grip changeout and the interior work with $$$ left over for other stuff (that includes the 30% taxes on the winnings).
- Need to clean off the overspray on the tires from the WW1 paint job, simple job using isopropyl. The front Halibrand's need some Mothers polish, the rears are new and need nothing.
- Tuning starts this week before the trip to the exhaust shop and gear shop. Sure sounds good though uncorked.

Chuck (snook)
 
Updates:
- Got the 4 post Backyard Buddy lift installed and it's a game changer for an old dude like me. No more crawling around on the floor setting 2 post arms... really nice unit.
- Went to the Brighton Seminole Casino to get away for a few hours and won $6000. That will be enough to take care of the exhaust system, D60 gear and sure-grip changeout and the interior work with $$$ left over for other stuff (that includes the 30% taxes on the winnings).
- Need to clean off the overspray on the tires from the WW1 paint job, simple job using isopropyl. The front Halibrand's need some Mothers polish, the rears are new and need nothing.
- Tuning starts this week before the trip to the exhaust shop and gear shop. Sure sounds good though uncorked.

Chuck (snook)
Fantastic win! Car looks great and agree with not bending down any more. I did it for 2 years while all my equipment was in storage. Never want to do that ever again.
 
Not much happening between work and looking for some folks to do some work...

Updates:
- Been spending a lot of time (and more time needed) cleaning parts of the paint job overspray. What a PITA.
- Working on getting the garage ceiling raised so I can get full use out of the lift. Drawings, permits, etc... this garage is the perfect candidate for this modification though. I'll lose the attic storage but I never use it anyway. Getting rid of the fluorescent fixtures and going with multiple high lumens LED flush mounted lights.
- Plan is to get the car to the gear and exhaust shops next week.
- This week I plan on rolling the car out and doing some tuning.

Chuck (snook)
 
New engine plan change:
- I was going to use a 440 Source 500CID kit on this virgin standard bore high nickel 440 block I have but that's not going to happen.
- It's going 0.030" over and I'm using a forged 440 crank, some K1 h-beams and flat top Diamond pistons (0.990 pin) for a 10.5-11.0 CR
- I'm re-using my MW heads (after some corrective work) and the 62-63 crossram with the 625 AFB's I have and may go to 750's if I think it needs it later
- I'm re-using the Isky solid roller, 3/8" pushrods and EZ Roller lifters I have, as this cam is perfect for what I need
- I'm probably going to T&D rockers instead of the Isky rockers I'm using now
- Not using the hemi oil pan I have and will be going to a Milodon deep pan and pickup
- This engine is going on the dyno up in Winter Garden before I install in the car, I'll post the results when I get them

Chuck (snook)
 
Curious why jump from Std bore to .030. Why not .010 or .020, is it the price or wait time or both?
 
Curious why jump from Std bore to .030. Why not .010 or .020, is it the price or wait time or both?
0.030" over pistons are usually in stock but I may consider a smaller overbore if available. Supply chain sucks these days and I'll take what's available be it 0.010, 0.020 or 0.030... I'm not going to be alive when a rebuild is necessary anyway.

Chuck (snook)
 
Updates:
- Max is finally going in for the differential work tomorrow. Getting the spool and 4.56's removed and replaced with a new Powr-Lok sure grip and 4.10's. Effective rear gear ratio will be 3.66:1 after the change.
- Wired the chokes open since there is no need for a choke in this climate.
- Work on the garage ceiling to accommodate the lift continues.
- Still backed up with business work and looks like I'll be headed to Wisconsin in April for startup of the facility I've been supporting remotely from home. I'll be stacking some coin while I'm up there.

Chuck (snook)
 
Updates:
- D60 changes are done. 4.10 gear and sure grip diff install complete, much better.
- Exhaust is done for now, much quieter and you can hear the roller solids rolling around. Needs some fine tuning later but OK for now.
- Finally able to finish some tuning now that it's quieted down some.
- Still need to do a front end alignment.

Chuck (snook)
 
Updates:
- Looked over the Strange spool (D1548) and Richmond Pro gear set (which I thought was a 4.56 but turns out it's a 4.88 R&P that I forgot I installed - age is a bitch, PN# 79-0068-1). Looks like new, so I'll be passing that on to an active racer.
- Pulling the alternator to swap the 2 groove pulley for a single groove.
- Continuing the tune... looks like I might be having a problem with the drivers side engine bank, getting some smoke from the exhaust on that side. I think it's fuel and not oil though. I'll be doing leak down and compression tests after I do some basic tuning. In the meantime, I'm still collecting parts for the new engine.
- Debating on selling the 4 bolt MW heads to a guy with an authentic maxie and using a set of MW ported Stealth heads or some TF270's...

Chuck (snook)
 
Pulling the alternator to swap the 2 groove pulley for a single groove.
I bought the single pulley and replaced the double. Use a power steering puller to remove it. Take the back half off the alternator so you can press the new pulley on the armature. I think I found the pulley on ebay.
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Updates:
- Tackled the PB tranny leaks. Replaced the o-ring on the shift cable and that fixed that. Replaced the Park cable o-ring, that didn't fix the leak so now I'm thinking it's the infamous cable jacket leak, so I'll be dealing with that later this week. I took some pics of the old o-rings, see attached. I looked at them with a naked eye before but obviously my eyes aren't that good... fist two pics from top to bottom are the Park cable o-ring, last two are the shift cable o-ring.
- Finally starting some tuning this week. Still have to get the front end aligned.

Chuck (snook)

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Updates:
- I screwed up and pulled a bonehead move and went to snug the Park cable clamping bolt and sheared the nut/bolt clean off. If I need to buy the whole park cable housing, that's OK. I attached some pics of what I need to fix my F'UP.
- I used a 12" section of Raychem WCSF-115-N heat shrink to seal the leaking shift cable at the trans end - still need to see if it works but I think it will. Pics attached of the repair.

Chuck (snook)

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Updates:
- Fixing leaks as I go along. Park cable housing has a small leak but I'm done messing with it and I can live with it until I get the new engine dyno'd and installed later this year.
- Replaced the valve cover gaskets with cork and used The Right Stuff to seal them. More on that later...
- Adjusted the fuel pressure, It was at 8PSI which is way more than the AFB carbs needle and seat are rated at. Adjusted to 5.5PSI and should be good to go.
- After much internal debate (with myself), I've decided to go with Trick Flow 270's and will be selling the 2402286 MW heads when I do the engine swap later this year. The 286 heads will be magged and I'll be selling the ISKY 1.5 rockers with them as well. I'm staying with solid roller lifters and the 4 bolt valve covers are too much to deal with leaking when I will have to pop the covers to run the valves on a regular basis. I'll be using the T&D rocker system going forward.
- Still need to get the front end alignment done but It's close to getting done.
- My main contract is short on $$$ so I'm on hiatus for a few months. In the meantime I picked up a remote work contract for a job in Nebraska. I'll have to spend a few weeks there for training and then I can continue remote work from home. So that's good.
- New engine will a 0.030" over 440 block zero decked with the ISKY 570RR roller that's in the present engine - really like this one. Stock 440 forged crank, H beams, forged flat tops and Trick Flow 270 heads. I'll be retaining the 62-63 (undated) cross ram with the 625cfm eddy's.

Chuck (snook)
 
Updates:
- Finally got the leaks down to few drops - I can handle that until the new engine goes in.
- Timed the engine today. Left it at 30*@3000 RPM and it seems to really like that. Idle is good but choppy, just the way I like it. The new timing light is really nice with a good strong flash and it works with the MSD 6AL just fine. It's a Innova Pro Timing Lights 5568, Innova 5568 Innova Pro Timing Lights | Summit Racing
- Tidied up some trunk wiring and other minor stuff.
- Still need to get the front end alignment done.

Chuck (snook)
 
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