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67 Charger, 727 trans question

Can you push the car in neutral on the ground?
Tires not hitting the wheel well?
 
FIRST, I am not clear about something. You say the wheels roll when the car is off the ground. But, do they roll under power in drive and reverse? Or are you just rolling them by hand? If I were you.... I would get the car safely up in the air. Start car with foot on brake. Pull it into drive, and see if the wheels still resist moving. Hit the brake again, to get the wheels completely stopped. Then do the same in reverse. That MAY tell you more about the condition. Then, I would pull the pan and drain the fluid. look and see if there is much debris or metal particles in pan. Pull the filter and check for obstruction. Let us know what you find.
 
Can you push the car in neutral on the ground?
Tires not hitting the wheel well?
I can, and they don't but I can definitely see I'm going to need some spacers. I got all up in there and looked/felt around both sides. Close, but absolutely no contact.
 
FIRST, I am not clear about something. You say the wheels roll when the car is off the ground. But, do they roll under power in drive and reverse? Or are you just rolling them by hand? If I were you.... I would get the car safely up in the air. Start car with foot on brake. Pull it into drive, and see if the wheels still resist moving. Hit the brake again, to get the wheels completely stopped. Then do the same in reverse. That MAY tell you more about the condition. Then, I would pull the pan and drain the fluid. look and see if there is much debris or metal particles in pan. Pull the filter and check for obstruction. Let us know what you find.
Yes, this. I have absolutely done this and the run under power in both forward and reverse.
This has me completely mystified. I'm pretty careful since my profession has trained me to check my work before I ask, but I'm definitely going to reach out to a couple neighbors who work on cars of a similar vintage to get a sanity check.

I'm using a scissor lift so I need to check access to the pan. I really need to upgrade to a bendpak low profile 2 post for complete access. It would make sense with all of the other cars play with.
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I can, and they don't but I can definitely see I'm going to need some spacers. I got all up in there and looked/felt around both sides. Close, but absolutely no contact.
From the video there doesn't seem to be a trans issue. Now we have a new piece of information. What spacers are we talking about? Have the wheels or brakes just been apart or changed?
Doug
 
I'm going to throw out something else. When the brakes were done, were the rubber hoses replaced? I had a problem once on an old Dodge. The brake hose on a front wheel was swelling up on the inside. When the brakes were applied, the hydraulic pressure forced the fluid into the wheel cylinder and locked up that brake. It took a while for the fluid to ease back through the restriction and let the brake release. I burned up the brakes on that one wheel before I figured out what was happening. So, is it possible that your one or more of your brakes is locking up even after you release the pedal? But yet, leaking down over the course of a couple of minutes after the pedal is released? Try getting the car up in the air and have someone apply the brakes. Then see how long it takes for the wheels to turn freely after the brake pedal is released.
 
From the video there doesn't seem to be a trans issue. Now we have a new piece of information. What spacers are we talking about? Have the wheels or brakes just been apart or changed?
Doug
Changed to Wilwood discs all around. The wheels roll easy while up in the air and the car rolls on the ground. I've also tested the brakes while the wheels were spinning in neutral while off the ground.

Edit: and no spacers yet. I just noted that clearance wasn't a problem but could be improved
 
I'm going to throw out something else. When the brakes were done, were the rubber hoses replaced? I had a problem once on an old Dodge. The brake hose on a front wheel was swelling up on the inside. When the brakes were applied, the hydraulic pressure forced the fluid into the wheel cylinder and locked up that brake. It took a while for the fluid to ease back through the restriction and let the brake release. I burned up the brakes on that one wheel before I figured out what was happening. So, is it possible that your one or more of your brakes is locking up even after you release the pedal? But yet, leaking down over the course of a couple of minutes after the pedal is released? Try getting the car up in the air and have someone apply the brakes. Then see how long it takes for the wheels to turn freely after the brake pedal is released.
All hoses were replaced. I've done that solo and the behavior was as expected. Great suggestion, I wish that was it.
 
I appreciate all of the suggestions!

At the end of all of this it seems like the trans will spin the wheels, but while under load something's holding things back.

I double checked under the car and there's definitely no interference with the lift.

Another data point that I'm sure will be considered an important omission is that I also changed to Moser axels at the same time as the Wilwood brakes. The set came from Reilly Motorsports as a kit since the stock axles are a crapshoot for fitment with Wilwood brakes. That install went super smooth and I followed the install recommendations and had a good video to follow.

There's definitely something up somewhere.
 
From what it sounds like to me it’s a band issue. Something is binding up on you.
 
From what it sounds like to me it’s a band issue. Something is binding up on you.
I have mentioned that a couple of times. I had the band start binding up in my Dodge pickup. It would act like it was locking up in reverse, kind of like what we heard in the video, and then BANG it would cut loose. I did a fluid and filter change, and adjusted the bands as per the factory manual. No problem any more. But this OP does not seem to be able or willing to pull the transmission pan and check things out.
The car sat without being started since 1994. I think one of the bands is stuck from setting......
 
If your'e sending time and money to get this car on the road again your'e gonna want to change the trans fluid and filter anyway, might as well service the trans and drop the pan and check also do a band adjustment . There is nothing to it- tighten to 72 inch pounds, back off two full turns- done. Even if it's not your problem it's still one more thing off the list .
 
I'm a trans builder. In over 40 years of assembling Torque Flites, never seen the front band stuck. If the rear band were stuck applied it would most likely be a cocked piston. If this happened, 1st and reverse would still function. But you didn't touch the trans. It does have new brakes and axles. So why focus on the trans? This issue has occured since them Willwood brakes have been installed, correct? Everything functioned before the brake/axle swap? Are the rotors centered in the middle of caliper travel? Or off to one side? Remove the rear caliper and look at the bracket/axle caliper clearances. Any rub marks? Check the axle bearings/bearing retainers to see if they are fully pressed on. The axle offset may require a spacer beneath the rear rotor. My racecar has this mod using Willwoods. I also had to machine the caliper bracket fof axle bearing snap ring to set flush.
Doug
 
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Also, if it was a SG, did you take the thrust buttons out.
Not that it should hold the car back..
 
I'm using a scissor lift so I need to check access to the pan. I really need to upgrade to a bendpak low profile 2 post for complete access. It would make sense with all of the other cars play with.
This is the message where I explicitly mentioned my access the to trans. It may indeed be what you mentioned but I'm of course going to learn what I can and explore low hanging fruit first.
 
This is the message where I explicitly mentioned my access the to trans. It may indeed be what you mentioned but I'm of course going to learn what I can and explore low hanging fruit first.
Did you try it in manual low gear?
 
Just from reading everything, I would remove the transmission and go threw it first, you can get a rebuild kit for under 200 dollars and there's a bunch of great YouTube videos on the 727 torqueflite transmission for rebuild if you have never done before. If I can do, you can do it also, and in the end you know what you have!
 
With two guys rolling the car I could hear some dragging up front; upper control arms dragging on the wheels.

I'll probably see about some spacers for a quick fix.
 
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