Is this the top one the correct one? It doesn’t look much different the what I have, it really looks like there’s more on the way. Unless I have something wrong, this is the best picture I could find on how I had everything
Golden Goddess heart surgery
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khryslerkid
Well-Known Member
In the description it states the top one with the extra hole fits RB and B blocks.
The spacers and bolts are offered also.
109-1511
But it doesn’t say if it fits with ac or not. The problem I am running in to, I found a better picture online. This is similar to what I had, and the tensioner for the water pump needed this piece. I had to cut so much out of it to make it work with the 2 bolt holes, it weakened it too much. It looks like that 440 source piece is similar with more material, so I’d have even more of an issue. I hope I’m making sense of the issue
khryslerkid
Well-Known Member
The bracket is the same for AC. The factory AC bracket shares the same top bolt in the alternator bracket closest to the water pump.
Other than that I'm not sure what to tell you unless the orientation of the bracket you are using was off. The next bracket down the page states "used on '68 and later water pumps." ???
Thank you very much for your patients and help!
I think I finally found some pictures. I still can’t find a good picture of it mounted. So bear with the crappy drawings.
It looks like this bracket uses the upper 2 holes, in red, and then the spacer makes up the slack with the bottom pulley.
The one on 440 source and I have use the top and bottom holes, yellow arrow and yellow circle. And that’s where I’m running into my problem….I think, hopefully this makes more sense.
I think I finally found some pictures. I still can’t find a good picture of it mounted. So bear with the crappy drawings.
It looks like this bracket uses the upper 2 holes, in red, and then the spacer makes up the slack with the bottom pulley.
The one on 440 source and I have use the top and bottom holes, yellow arrow and yellow circle. And that’s where I’m running into my problem….I think, hopefully this makes more sense.
Mine is a 66. Not sure if you can see what you need from this picture
Thanks for sharing, that looks completely different than anything else.
Boris7K
Well-Known Member
The picture you marked in red and yellow is for an AR Engineering kit to put an import altenator on a 440, just to help clear things up.
That’s just a random picture I found, the first clear one on the internet. I don’t care about the alternator or anything. It’s the same generic bracket you can get from a hundred people cheap. I just need to know where I can get the right parts, which I think is these 2 pieces
I am not familiar with the earlier stuff but the early 70s models used different alternator brackets for A/C versus non A/C.
This is with A/C.
This is without.
That is exactly what I was looking for Kern, thank you!
The spacer and the idler pulley for the water pump goes right here.
So I need these 2 brackets
The spacer and the idler pulley for the water pump goes right here.
So I need these 2 brackets
Here it is with the spacer and idler:
That’s exactly what I was looking for!
I need to find those 2 brackets, definitely not from bouchillon, $200!
I need to find those 2 brackets, definitely not from bouchillon, $200!
Started replacing the rear main seal, getting rid of the nasty flat leaky rope seal. The problem is I can’t seem to get it out of the crank, is it possible to do it with the crank, or do I need to remove the crank?
khryslerkid
Well-Known Member
Did you remove the old seal yet?
I can’t seem to get it out from under the crank. Am I fighting a loosing battle not pulling the crank, or is it possible without removing it
khryslerkid
Well-Known Member
Been awhile for me but try spraying some WD-40 on it for awhile. Use a hard piece of plastic to push on it. If someone can help turn the crank while you're putting pressure on it. Once you get a little showing use a needle nose vice grip to help pull it out.
Good luck.
I pulled the rear main out with the engine still in the car. It was a fresh rebuild and a defective seal. It was easier than doing a seasoned engine but I suspect as suggested, all you need is to push one end in with some plastic or wood stick, something that won’t scratch the crank if you slip. The other end will pop out and then you extract it. I’ve done it.
Cheers.
Cheers.
There is no defective seal. Only defective installation.
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