Throw the BOX!!?

[Demonic]

After sitting for 20 minutes went to put it in the garage. Ran for 15 seconds then just died before I put it in gear.
NO SPARK!!!

That sounds like heat soak to the coil OR maybe the Orange Box. Where is the Box mounted?

 

[wagonman]

On the 68 R/R I ran one of Eboogers HI Rev kits, never had a problem. On the BB Duster I did the HEI conversion with all used parts including the Accel 4 pin module. No problems either.

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

this one is chrysler eletronic dizzy with a msd 6a on my hp 383 . no issues . and i've just been setting this 440 up with chrysler dizzy and a chrysler orange box . no issues either . my bud uses pretronix units in everything he builds .

 

[threewood]

Were your distributors originally mopar electronic or points?

Mopar single points distributors.

 

[Timmayy]

To help out with the engine heat affecting the coil, I put a couple of 1"+ spacers to raise the coil off the intake. It seems to have helped a lot.

 

[71Beeper]

Sebring+ you could try what Jamie at Dead Dodge garage does.....an HEI style conversion.

 

[Gold Rush]

I did something very similar to my '74 SE 400 a few years ago and it has worked flawlessly from day one! I was advised to pair the GM module with an "E" Core coil and the result was the hottest spark I've ever seen. I opted for this one... Speedmaster Ignition Coils PCE382.1030.

I know the OP does not have an original MOPAR distributor and believe that is required for using the CNC fabricated adapter plate offered by one of our members; allowing the GM module to attach underneath the distributor head. I wish I could recall their name. Hopefully they will speak up. Don't see why mounting it like in the video would not work. Looks a little rough but "function before form" ya know.....

 

[1967coronet]

That is the way I'm LEANING,!!

I have been useing the same pertronix conversion for over 10 years.
Had it on 2 different big blocks, new cap and rotor every couple years.
Each engine , 383 and 440 I went both times to Orielys and ordered a rebuilt points style distributor add the pertronix.
Swapped in my #9 limit plate and light springs.
I have been useing the same 1.5 ohm flame thrower coil from the start.
Wired around the ballast.
It is a good system.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've only been a mopar owner since 2010, but since day 1 I've been running the Mopar Chrome box and I've never had a problem. Why do so many want to run the orange box instead when all we hear about are problems?

My only experience with Pertronix was a conversion on my old 1967 GM 327 motor that was in the Impala my dad gave me. We ran points on it since he bought it new in '67 and I religiously would change the points, condenser, cap, and rotor every year. When I switched to the Pertronix setup (this was around 2004), the throttle response lost some snappiness. Not sure if the installation was done correctly by the shop I hired - it ran smooth, but not as snappy as with the points. However, everywhere I turn I hear people rave about Pertronix so maybe I should give it another go someday.

 

[493 Mike]

I did something very similar to my '74 SE 400 a few years ago and it has worked flawlessly from day one! I was advised to pair the GM module with an "E" Core coil and the result was the hottest spark I've ever seen. I opted for this one... Speedmaster Ignition Coils PCE382.1030.

I know the OP does not have an original MOPAR distributor and believe that is required for using the CNC fabricated adapter plate offered by one of our members; allowing the GM module to attach underneath the distributor head. I purchased a distributor from Rock Auto cheaper than I could find a OEM unit and had to drill and tap the required mounting holes-no big deal. I wish I could recall their name. Did you read my #17 post? Hopefully they will speak up. Don't see why mounting it like in the video would not work. Looks a little rough but "function before form" ya know.....
Mike.
View attachment 1598615

 

[Gold Rush]

Nope, I missed your post somehow Mike! Glad you responded. I'm going to save this one so I'll know where to send folks the next time.

 

[Sinitro]

Heat and thermal buildup is the biggest enemy of an ECU...
I have installled many Mopar electronic ignition systems,
but I mount the ECU down on the frame rail where there is constant air flow whenever the car is moving...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Stonehengeheel]

As 68 Sport said above the Mopar chrome boxes seem to work better than the orange ones.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As 68 Sport said above the Mopar chrome boxes seem to work better than the orange ones.

Agreed butttttt, If you read the Mopar factory literature that cover the chrome box it states that they are designed for high RPM usage & shouldn't be used for extended idle periods or the module can overheat and fail.....

BTW I still have a chrome box I bought back in 1978.. The potting compound started melting and running down my firewall around 1982 so I removed it and shelved it... It still works, I've plugged it into a few cars as a diagnostic test... But I suspect if left in a running car for long it'll fail....

I keep telling myself I should refill it with modern potting compound..

 

[Bee1971]

FOR SALE - Mopar ECU's
I see he has some sold that are listed
I would buy #3 in a heartbeat over anything made today

But it’s a true 5 pin , and requires a factory DUAL BALLAST RESISTOR


Like mentioned in a few posts

Heat soak

What ignition coil are you running , brand

Your electronic ignition distributor pick up could also bee an issue - What’s your air gap set at

 

[Geoff 2]

Haven't read the posts. Dump the Chrys box & use a $30 GM HEI pin module with your Chrys dist. Wiring diagrams on the net. If you want to splash out a few more $$$ on an E core coil, you can ditch the bal res, another failure point gone. Run 0.060" plug gaps.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Haven't read the posts. Dump the Chrys box & use a $30 GM HEI pin module with your Chrys dist. Wiring diagrams on the net. If you want to splash out a few more $$$ on an E core coil, you can ditch the bal res, another failure point gone. Run 0.060" plug gaps.

I almost did this around 10 years ago when I first got my car, but had read that an HEI conversion is also not necessarily bulletproof. Any watch outs to be aware of for reliability on HEI?

 

[Speedbird]

Mopar Distributors and Ignition Controls for Street-Strip-Motorhomes
I drive my cars and reliability is the number one priority.
I've got a laundry list of why this ECU and coil is a good choice.
IMO the best choice. Plug and play.
Other things are either over kill or a PITA.
No need for anything other than a stock distributor.
Halifax has done some for me.
MSD? I swore of those years ago after being stranded.
As far as I know one can only push so much "power" through stock wiring.

 

[PGio]

Everyone talks about going the Pertronix route, but that is not a plug and play with the stock chrysler ignition system. Plus with all the bypassing, etc, it will not look stock.
For the modified car folks, that it fine, but what about us folks who want to look as stock as possible? (We hide the orange box)
What can WE do?
I have the original ignition system in my 70 Challenger R/T with that ignition retard module on the distributor that does not work right and the car runs like crap!
I keep getting different opinions on what to do from many Mopar guys.
What can I do that will look as stock as possible?
My old Orange boxes on other cars work beautifully for decades, but I hear from many people that the new ones made overseas in the Orient somewhere suck and keep failing.
HELP

 

[Geoff 2]

68SS,
Post #37. The HEI is very reliable as long as an adequate heat sink is used. It has less external connection points than the Chrys system, & each one is subject to failure from corrosion, loose connection etc.