Golden Goddess heart surgery

[Kern Dog]

That is great.
These old cars can still handle quite well with the right parts and a good alignment.
Score !


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Edit....dang phone and small screen, I make too may typos on that thing.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

You don’t have to convince me! I can’t stand all the bullshit mustang 2 suspension swap kits for these cars, when was a mustang 2 ever a performance car? And not only that, gremlins and pacers had better suspension!

From what I’ve gathered, all you need to make these cars handle better is tubular upper control arms for better alignment specs, which is why these cars suck. Good shocks. A good steering box. And ditch the oversized school bus steering wheel. A lot cheaper and easier then putting turdstain 2 suspension underneath

 

[71RRHI]

Hard to find service like that these days

 

[ckessel]

That is great.
These old cars can still handle quite well with the right parts and a good alignment.
Score !


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Edit....dang phone and small screen, I make too may typos on that thing.

The very reason why I only surf while on my laptop.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Just a little update

Brake saga continues, but after a visit with @5.7 hemi , his great mind and my ok mind concluded the brake calipers are sticking, so I’ll rebuild a pair I have laying around and hopefully finally get done screwing around with brakes.

But on a happy note, driving to his place I got to actually get a good feel for the suspension. The upper control arms and proper alignment has made a world of difference in the car! It handles and drives so much better, it’s not wondering all over the road, and there’s a bit of predictability in it.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I’m back! Battle of the brakes has still been going on. After years of failure and frustration, I’m done with the power brakes. A lot of great people have offered some wonderful advice, however for some reason the brakes just don’t work. So I’m not starting brake redo 22.

I’m going to start taking the vacuum system off and go with the most basic and simple power brakes. I know there’s many options, but I wanted to continue representing the low buck guys, a 15/16 bore mc from eBay for $60. I tried taking my calipers apart and rebuilding to see if anything was wrong, I messed them up so new ones from eBay as well, $70. And the adjustable push rod from doctor diff, $50. Let the fun begin again hopefully for the last time!

 

[Kern Dog]

For a few years, I had a basic A body setup on my Charger and it was quite good. Power booster and MC from a parts car 75 Dart I had…15/16” MC, 11” front disc, 10” rear drum. That is the same combination that was in millions of Darts, Valiants and Dusters and it works. The Charger is heavier than the A body cars so I felt the need to make improvements. I first stepped up to 12” rotors from a Cordoba, then rear discs later.
On Jigsaw, it is a manual MC front disc, rear drum. It works but doesn’t stop as well as my 4 wheel disc setup on the red car.
I agree, Non power will work and be reliable. I still think there is some small detail that wasn’t discovered in your combination. Maybe a kinked line, a bad or dirty proportioning valve, stuck calipers or something else.
Good luck and keep us informed.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Somebody makes an adjustable push rod with a flats on it for the stoplight switch. I had issues with the stoplight switch resetting inconsistently with the doctor diff adjustable push rod. I don’t remember who made the adjustable push rod, but I found it on Summit racing.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I still think there is some small detail that wasn’t discovered in your combination. Maybe a kinked line, a bad or dirty proportioning valve, stuck calipers or something else.

That’s the problem, there’s a small detail we have yet to discover. That’s why I’m simplifying everything, hopefully it just works

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I wish I remembered how I got to these, all the swivel and extension combos have not gotten to it yet….maybe it’s a sign to call it a night, I at least got the booster/mc off. Now I’m a few wires and other stuff that I need to run better since there’s so much room for activities now

 

[Kern Dog]

since there’s so much room for activities now

Ah.... a Step Brothers movie reference.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Ah.... a Step Brothers movie reference.

View attachment 1667850

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

New rotors and calipers installed. Power brake booster reinforcement plate removed, and the manual plate half installed. My hands are so numb I unfortunately have to call it a night. I have reinforcements coming tomorrow afternoon, hopefully that speed up progress

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

That looks a better better without the booster, now time to make brake lines

 

[Kern Dog]

I do like the look without the vacuum booster. That was one of my reasons for trying a manual MC setup.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Ok, that took entirely too damn long but finally lines are complete. Now under the dash again to hook up the linkage

 

[Kern Dog]

When I bought my 1966-70 booster, it came with NO instructions for assembly.
Obviously I figured it out but that is one of the pickadillies that really piss me off....vendors that ship stuff out with incomplete or NO instructions.
Lucky for you, the manual brake system is really simple. You have ONE pushrod about 6 inches long attached to the brake pedal arm. That is it.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Yeah, now I got to figure out what is going on here. I have a dr diff adjustable push rod, I had to shorten it as much as I could to get it to go on the pedal. Now my brake pedal is a mile high, I was thinking maybe the mc needs bled and it’ll lower. Well, after pumping for a couple minutes I’ve got plenty out of the rear brake reservoir (front pot,) but nothing nothing from the front reservoir (rear pot.)

 

[Kern Dog]

I always bleed the master cylinder in a vice on the workbench but your way works too.
The pedal is WAY too high. Bleeding it will not likely lower the pedal much, if any. You probably won't be able to get a brake light switch in now.
I have several stock brake pushrods, I could send you one. I don't think the lengths varied much over the years. I have several from A body cars.
The Dr Diff adjustable is pretty but not necessary.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I have the factory manual drum brake push rod off the car. I only bought the dr diff one because I thought it would be shorter and could lengthen to what you need (that’s what she said, but holding the factory rod in place it doesn’t look much shorter