Hard starts and stalling

[joseph p.]

hi guys,would the yellow signal wire on the starter relay cause stalling if it were hanging on a thread of wire??I was changing the relay and I looked at the end of connecter and the wire was hanging on a thread,, literally,,,,went to inspect it and it just fell off.in that state could it make my car stall 2 minutes after warm up,and hard starts after the stall,changed plugs,wires, carb flow good,new solenoid,and new ignition box and ballast resistor,thanks for your attention.69 satellite 383 4bbl electronic ignition.

 

[451Mopar]

That only triggers the neutral safety relay for the starter. Nothing related to how the engine runs.
maybe check fuel tank venting?
I have has many fuel system issues in the past to where I just by-pass the original fuel system when trouble-shooting.
I rig up an electric pump to pull fuel from a gas can and feed the carb. If it runs good that way, but not with the original fuel system then I know where to start looking.
If the problem is still present, then I can start looking at other areas like ignition and vacuum leaks (assuming the carb is good.)
As for the carb, It could have a bad needle and seat or even a float that has a crack or pinhole allowing fuel into the float both can cause the carb to flood after a few minutes.
Bad or wrong ignition coil could overheat after some time also.
Could also be issues with the primary ignition power, bulkhead connector, alternator brushes and such.

 

[joseph p.]

thanks my friend,yeah I figured that it wouldn't cause a stall,,yes I'm gonna check the bulk head,and also i cleaned the carb ,Jets,gonna do your recommendation,thanks bud.

 

[icetech]

A bad coil will run for 1-2 minutes then start stumbling and die (also a coil hooked up backwards)

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

thanks my friend,yeah I figured that it wouldn't cause a stall,,yes I'm gonna check the bulk head,and also i cleaned the carb ,Jets,gonna do your recommendation,thanks bud.

Condition of fuel pump pushrod within length spec? Long topic on this in past comments. Search should find topic

 

[68BabyBlue]

A bad coil will run for 1-2 minutes then start stumbling and die (also a coil hooked up backwards)

I had one years ago that would go a lot longer. Guy I worked with who was a mechanic in the 60s was the one who figured it out.

 

[icetech]

I had one years ago that would go a lot longer. Guy I worked with who was a mechanic in the 60s was the one who figured it out.

Yeah, intermittent problems like that are the worst... coils are cheap (or free) i carry a spare one with me and points dist a slightly bad one will work til it gets good and warm then nothing.. wait a few mins and fires back up. a lot of fun

 

[joseph p.]

Condition of fuel pump pushrod within length spec? Long topic on this in past comments. Search should find topic

Thanks my friends,,new coil,but birdlover could be right,I changed the fuel pump ,and fuel filter last October,,and I just inspected it,,didn't know about the measurements length,I do now,,,so when I started her,I heard a slight muffled knocking noise near the fuel pump,but it went away shortly after,,I know this could be it,also the carb jet is squirting gas but its not fast flowing,,first time ever checking out. The flow since owning her for 8 1/2 years,thanks again for all input guys.

 

[joseph p.]

 

[joseph p.]

from the pic,the right side of rod looks shorter,,ordering one now

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Get a good one from a reputable company. Some are hit and miss these days. Hope it solves it. So many pesky gremlins in our cars but way easier to work on the classics

from the pic,the right side of rod looks shorter,,ordering one now

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

From previous posts I’ve saved.

 

[joseph p.]

Well its not the fuel pump rod,,waiting on a carb pump.

 

[joseph p.]

the ends look worn,is this still good???its has almost 3,1/4 length.Ordered another rod,just to be sure.

 

[joseph p.]

 

[451Mopar]

Any progress?
Troubleshooting, I like to isolate / remove the parts of the system when there is intermittent problems.
The external fuel system with electric pump to the carb isolates the engines fueling to just the car itself.
If you disconnect the alternator, voltage regulator, and other accessories like electric choke from the ignition system, and use a jumper wire to the ballast or ignition 1, you can bypass the bulkhead connector and ignition switch. Disconnecting all but the ignition and coil removes possible extra current draws that could cause a bad connection (like at the bulkhead connector) to heat up increasing resistance and dropping the ignition voltage.

With the external fuel and electrical bypass in place, you only have to troubleshoot the engine basics; carb, ignition (primary & secondary), and engine mechanical

 

[joseph p.]

Thanks 451mopar,you know I 99 percent know its the aluminum fuel pump line,,because last night will looking at the f pump,I noticed that the aluminum line had a squished part at the bend ,,,I must of did this last month when I changed the filter and pump,,must of bend it at that time because Pryor it would just pudder and stall once in a blue moon,the filter was issue back then,,,I noticed the squish part last night, I'm waiting for a new line,,I will let you know,,ugh I could finally sleep now

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Any progress?
Troubleshooting, I like to isolate / remove the parts of the system when there is intermittent problems.
The external fuel system with electric pump to the carb isolates the engines fueling to just the car itself.
If you disconnect the alternator, voltage regulator, and other accessories like electric choke from the ignition system, and use a jumper wire to the ballast or ignition 1, you can bypass the bulkhead connector and ignition switch. Disconnecting all but the ignition and coil removes possible extra current draws that could cause a bad connection (like at the bulkhead connector) to heat up increasing resistance and dropping the ignition voltage.

With the external fuel and electrical bypass in place, you only have to troubleshoot the engine basics; carb, ignition (primary & secondary), and engine mechanical

That’s a great tech synopsis

 

[451Mopar]

I wouldn't use aluminum line. I did in the past and after a few years it cracked.
I use stainless steel lines where I can, but they can be difficult to bend and flair.
The Copper-Nickle lines are a good choice if you want something easier to bend than stainless lines.

 

[joseph p.]

omg loose coil negative wire,found out the next day right in front of me,It was off the post,and it had a single strand of copper .