No start - very weak spark
- Thread starter Blue Brick
- Start date
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
The picture above is from Lakeland Auto and Marine YouTube channel.
Magneto in the distributor?
Didn't realize it was some off the web picture
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
Sorry I should have added a disclaimer.
My spark is very weak, thin, and brown looking.
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
While cranking, the positive terminal on the coil was getting 5.65 volts with the key on and the module plugged in. When I turn the key (starter turning) the volts increased to 8.2 volts and would fluctuate up to 8.6 volts
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
I installed the starter relay and the new control module. I didn't have any time perform any testing.
Right now what I'm focusing on is the voltage to the coil during cranking.
I did buy a starter switch although I have not installed it.
Right now what I'm focusing on is the voltage to the coil during cranking.
I did buy a starter switch although I have not installed it.
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
About 8.2 volts while cranking.
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
Before I start this huge task of replacing the starter switch, does anyone know how to verify if it's putting out the correct voltage?
At the ballast the wire going to the coil is 5.4 volts and the hot wire with direct battery voltage is like 10.49 volts.
At the ballast the wire going to the coil is 5.4 volts and the hot wire with direct battery voltage is like 10.49 volts.
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
Zero change with a new starter switch
Blue Brick
Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever heard of "clocking" a distributor?
Yes more of a big block DP thing. The shafts and advance cams are clocked in different positions so for example if you set the oil pump gear in the factory #1 position and drop in a wrong clocked dist it might point to say #4 instead of #1. No reall issue you can just re adjust the wires for it to run.
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