• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

No start - very weak spark

While cranking, the positive terminal on the coil was getting 5.65 volts with the key on and the module plugged in. When I turn the key (starter turning) the volts increased to 8.2 volts and would fluctuate up to 8.6 volts
 
I installed the starter relay and the new control module. I didn't have any time perform any testing.

Right now what I'm focusing on is the voltage to the coil during cranking.

I did buy a starter switch although I have not installed it.
 
Before I start this huge task of replacing the starter switch, does anyone know how to verify if it's putting out the correct voltage?

At the ballast the wire going to the coil is 5.4 volts and the hot wire with direct battery voltage is like 10.49 volts.
 
Has anyone ever heard of "clocking" a distributor?
 
Has anyone ever heard of "clocking" a distributor?
Yes more of a big block DP thing. The shafts and advance cams are clocked in different positions so for example if you set the oil pump gear in the factory #1 position and drop in a wrong clocked dist it might point to say #4 instead of #1. No reall issue you can just re adjust the wires for it to run.
 
I realize it’s been a little while, so I wanted to give you a quick update.

I’ve replaced both the starter switch and the starter relay, but unfortunately, that didn’t resolve the issue.

While running some tests today, I noticed that the negative side of the coil isn’t pulsing during cranking.
 
Disconnect the pick up. Connect the p/up to your DVM, AC volts, low voltage scale. Crank the engine. You should see from millivolts to a few volts. Zero means p/up or adjustment is defective.
 
Disconnect the pick up. Connect the p/up to your DVM, AC volts, low voltage scale. Crank the engine. You should see from millivolts to a few volts. Zero means p/up or adjustment is defective.
200 millivolts cranking

498 ohms
 
All sounds ok & working. System should produce spark provided the rest of the system is ok.
 
Correct, but for some reason, no spark.

I can occasionally get a significant shock ⚡ while testing.
It is possible that the main switching transistor is / has failed. This transistor is external and is a power Darling design capable of switching coil's primary current. If the transistor has failed, either failed open or shorted the resu,t is an intermittent spark or no spark condition.....just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
 
I just read through this.
Looking at the pictures you have a 5 pin ECU with a 4 pin wiring plug and a single ballast resistor.
So no power on pin 3.
Perhaps it had a 4 pin previously which failed and an attempt was made to replace with this 5 pin.
(Just guessing but I don't see how it ran in this configuration)
I suggest you try a 4 pin ECU.
Then get a new engine wiring harness or at least clean up the assortment of connectors there.
 
It is possible that the main switching transistor is / has failed. This transistor is external and is a power Darling design capable of switching coil's primary current. If the transistor has failed, either failed open or shorted the resu,t is an intermittent spark or no spark condition.....just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
Where is the main switching transistor located?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top