69 Satellite

[donm]

Last ones, after pulling the tape

 

[donm]

DS fender back on. Little adjusting to do stil. Started getting the engine bay prep for paint next week since carlisle is this weekend.

 

[donm]

Progress made, still behind. Engine bay done. 1 coat Sealer, 3 BC, 3 clear. Went ahead and shot the cowl with it

 

[donm]

Tape/paper removed. Pretty happy with the results, little sag in a spot, some dirt on the cowl and got a little heavy on the deleted battery tray with some pooling of the clear.

 

[donm]

Little sunshine, look more blue than anything. Silver shows from a distance. It is what it is, the test mini car a few years ago was more silver, but this has 1 more coat of base and more clear. Mabye the spray just got screwed up or now its more consistant spray out. Who knows. Still a nice color.

 

[ckessel]

Once the bay gets filled in, most of the issues will hide.

 

[donm]

Once the bay gets filled in, most of the issues will hide.

Yeah that will be a plus. downside the painter in me has to look at all the bad first instead of the good, because its always the game of I coulda did that a little better or changed this a bit for these results. Dad likes it so its a win overall.

 

[donm]

Couple comparison shots to the sample car. Sample car is two coats of spi epoxy, no 2k,( light scuff) 2 coats base , 2 coats clear.

Engine bay is 3 coats epoxy, 2 2k reg build, (sanded 180/320/400/) 1 coat sealer, 3 base with a drop coat, 3 clear

couple shots with the door too

 

[donm]

Do auto paints tend to settle down/lighten slightly as they cure? I paint conversion varish primarily and they tend to lighten up some.

 

[ckessel]

They don't settle once cured. What you're seeing is the difference in the "flop" of the metallic, and sometimes solid, particles in the material. And also the difference in the drying rate between metal and plastic. Your shape is plastic and when you painted it, it was on its wheels more or less. The flop is like fish scales. The way they settle, on the vertical areas will look different than horizontal areas and contours. It's truly the same but because of the position of the part when painted, it will look different when in a different position. Thats why when you paint parts, fenders/doors/hoods etc off the car, they need to be painted in their installed orientation. Look at your family late model ride, or others in a parking lot. Look at the front and rear bumpers. Look how they are against the quarters or front fender. They don't match 100%. Part of that is because they're plastic and the other is the position they were in when painted. At the shop I managed, it was a constant battle to get the painters to shoot the covers in the installed positions. The stands they used would rotate so they could. They were just lazy. Every time there was a mismatch when installed, the painter got to redo it for free or get back flagged.

 

[donm]

They don't settle once cured. What you're seeing is the difference in the "flop" of the metallic, and sometimes solid, particles in the material. And also the difference in the drying rate between metal and plastic. Your shape is plastic and when you painted it, it was on its wheels more or less. The flop is like fish scales. The way they settle, on the vertical areas will look different than horizontal areas and contours. It's truly the same but because of the position of the part when painted, it will look different when in a different position. Thats why when you paint parts, fenders/doors/hoods etc off the car, they need to be painted in their installed orientation. Look at your family late model ride, or others in a parking lot. Look at the front and rear bumpers. Look how they are against the quarters or front fender. They don't match 100%. Part of that is because they're plastic and the other is the position they were in when painted. At the shop I managed, it was a constant battle to get the painters to shoot the covers in the installed positions. The stands they used would rotate so they could. They were just lazy. Every time there was a mismatch when installed, the painter got to redo it for free or get back flagged.

Thanks for the info. The little car is a metal one, could it be since i sprayed out one less coat of base on it, its giving less flop on the blue toner and letting the silver through more? Would less overlap on passes help lessen the blue slightly/ increase the flop appreance?. Im use to about 75 - 80% overlap for my passes on the varinsh upwards of 90% on a flat/low gloss. These passes were probably 60% on the vertical and about 80% within the tight bends

 

[donm]

Gun distance was 7-8" around 26-28psi for pressure , drop was about 11" half the pressure. I usually spray high on pressure at a fairly quick speed.

 

[donm]

So with the orientation "flop" apperance, is the why when i sprayed upside down under the car, everthing seems more silver in apperance? Contours and curves allowing the pigment to reflect way different

 

[ckessel]

Another thing to look at dealing with contours. Look at some of the late model rides. A Camaro is a good example. Look at the door and the quarter panel. Due to the contour changes, it looks off when it's actually right on. Your technique looks fine. The "professionals" the shop owner hired many times had a technique we called "Zorro". It looked like they waved the gun around like it was a sword. Other times they needed a special gun that was hinged as they could never get around corners or the bottom of a panel.