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One white valve

Yes sir, thanks for everyone’s help

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With care you can by taping off where you don't want it. You have 2 suspect areas that are small.
 
Usually there is coolant in the cylinder it will be washed clean. There is a clean area on the piston shown. Are there any other pistons clean in that spot? I have not seen a crack in the deck. Cylinder walls (usually easy to see) outside between the freeze plugs as well. Should’ve aired up each cylinder with the radiator cap off before it was taken apart.
Doug
 
this is the only clean cylinder. I ordered a dye pen kit to check the suspect areas. If all is well, I'm thinking about reinstalling the head with a new gasket then pressurize the cooling system without completely reassembling the engine. Should have done a bit more testing before disassembly but I never considered having a cracked block. The engine needs some more "get up and Go" (dyno report is embarrassing) but replacing the block wasn't on the list.
 
Cracked blocks are heart breaking event,MO. Here's a killer because of previous owners careless storage. When I was loosening the head bolts 2 were loose. I was checking the engine before buying my Satellite.
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another "fun fact" my car is a real dual badge GTX Roadrunner U code car. Fortunately I removed the complete, and running, number matching 440 and placed in on a stand in my man cave and built a second engine which is in the car. I remove the plugs, squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and rotate the engine on a regular bases. Not the ideal situation but it is safe and sound and not in the car with a suspect crack.
 
The cylinder & head passed 2 DIY dye pen test and they appear to be good to go. Thinking about reinstalling the head and doing a leak down test on the cooling system. I consider myself a decent hobbyist mechanic and I need to confirm the fail point before I invest in a new set of aluminum heads

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If you put the head back on I'd use Hi tack on both sides of gasket. Someone else might suggest something better?
Would that be considered burned and does it seal? Might want to lap the valve it to check the seal, who wants to put a head on with a leaking valve.
 
Definitely some type of high tack if it's a factory steel shim gasket. otherwise, no
 
One wierd cylinder coolant leak I have seen in the past is a crack around a valve guide that leaked worse after the motor warmed up. Took a while to find, drove us nuts trying to figure it out. If everything else checks out, I’d start looking for something insidious like that.
 
One wierd cylinder coolant leak I have seen in the past is a crack around a valve guide that leaked worse after the motor warmed up. Took a while to find, drove us nuts trying to figure it out. If everything else checks out, I’d start looking for something insidious like that.
I’m following this because I have a 440x6 that has had a real valve ping issue in the past. It now has something underneath the right bank. However it has a small crack in block on left side between the rear freeze plugs that doesn’t leak coolant but shows as a stain there. Edelbrock heads are on bench to cure ping before this happened.
 
Did you check that the exhaust valve is sealing good? Pour some low viscousity fluid like solvent or alcohol, or brake cleaner in the exhaust port and see if it leaks past the valve seat.
 
a friend asked if it could beoil buring and not water. Would oil cause the white valve? I'll test the valve as suggeted above and then plan to reiinsall the head just enough to test the cooling pressure,
 
a friend asked if it could beoil buring and not water. Would oil cause the white valve? I'll test the valve as suggeted above and then plan to reiinsall the head just enough to test the cooling pressure,
could it be burning oil.............
 
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