Another Running HOT Thread

[Stumper]

My 62’ Fury, pretty stock 361/4bbl, original style fan and a non original (but correct) 22” 3 core radiator with a 13psi cap. Last year i installed a new high flow water pump and a 160-5 t stat. The T stat is a fail open type.
Most of my local cruising around I’ve been trouble free. On warmer days the temp will occasionally climb to the upper quarter of the gage and then the t stat opens and it comes back down to about half gage. The other day I went to a cruise in an adjacent town. It was in the upper 80s and I drove faster than usual over there - 65-70 mph. When I got into the town I noticed my gage was all the way to the hot side and after I parked it puked a qt or better of coolant out of the overflow. Driving home later I stayed 55-60 mph and the temp stayed normal. I have noticed this before that the temp climbs high when I drive faster. Obviously the engine works harder at higher speeds but the air flow is also higher? Radiator was flushed last year when the pump was installed.
My first thought was a stuck T stat, but it is almost new. Any thoughts?

 

[Don Frelier]

Something seems wrong.
Going 10 mph faster shouldn't make it overheat.

 

[Stumper]

Agreed. Grill is in great shape and the radiator has minimal bug damage so I think it’s getting the proper airflow. No radiator shroud but they weren’t on many cars in 62.. lower hose has a spring in it.

 

[Dave6T4]

You said you added a high flow water pump. There is such a thing as pumping the coolant so fast that it does not remain in the radiator long enough to loose as much heat as it needs too.

 

[RJRENTON]

You said you added a high flow water pump. There is such a thing as pumping the coolant so fast that it does not remain in the radiator long enough to loose as much heat as it needs too.

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.........VELOCITY OF THE COOLANT (either thru the block & heads AND thru the radiator) is the secret to best heat transfer. According to the fundamentals of Thermodynamics (Q (heat) = M (mass flow, in terms of Btu/Hr) x Cp (specif heat characteristics of the coolant) x delta T (temperature differences of both air flow and coolant) and ambient temperature. It's obvious you do not believe in this aspect but continue to believe in old wives tale #3, that the coolant must move slow thru the radiator. I can explain the fundamentals of Thermodynamics and heat transfer.......if you're interested......
BOB RENTON

 

[Pecos Bill]

Do you have an overflow tank? It maybe that your system is acting normal, but lacks the benefits of an overflow tank.

 

[Stumper]

No overflow tank as there weren’t any used in 62’,

 

[Dave6T4]

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.........VELOCITY OF THE COOLANT (either thru the block & heads AND thru the radiator) is the secret to beat heat transfer. According to the fundamentals of Thermodynamics (Q (heat) = M (mass flow, in terms of Btu/Hr) x Cp (specif heat characteristics of the coolant) x delta T (temperature differences of both air flow and coolant) and ambient temperature. It's obvious you do not believe in this aspect but continue to believe in old wives tale #3, that the coolant must move slow thru the radiator. I can explain the fundamentals of Thermodynamics and heat transfer.......if you're interested......
BOB RENTON

Over my head, Bob. I'm just a dumb old geezer that's been wrenching cars for 60 years. No university degrees here; I am a D.O.P.E. (Doctor of Personal Experience). LOL.

 

[dadsbee]

F Dave, fast flow, friction, the heat it adds while dissipating nothing... wtf do we know. Ever put too small size of lines on a backhoe hydraulic system and stuck you hand on a metal section. Laminar, turbulent flow, wft do I know !

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

A quarter past half way on the guage before thermostat opens under low load in town cruising. Is that normal for that engine/year/rad etc.

 

[Geoff 2]

I suspect a blocked rad core if it has a lot of miles on it.

 

[Stumper]

Radiator was flushed last year. One other thing I forgot to mention is that my heater lines are plugged off at the firewall (heater valve was leaking).

 

[matthon]

Pull the block plugs and the radiator hoses and flush everything. Then flush it again.
Make sure radiator is clean and no obstructions. Mine was full of the big white puffy seed things after a long drive.
Clutch fan and an overflow doesn't hurt, even if it wasn't stock.
I made an overflow out of a water bottle and some hard fuel line.

 

[Dave6T4]

I just put an overflow bottle on my '67 R/T, after 33 years on the road. I used one of those odd shaped bottles that spray tire cleaner comes in. This bottle is almost twice the size of a common water bottle. I removed the sprayer, and found that a cap from a water bottle would screw right on, and seal. Using a step drill, I drilled a hole in the cap that the overflow hose would tightly push into; in my case 7/16". The overflow hose was cut off so it almost reached the bottom of the bottle. The bottle was a tight fit between the battery box brace and the radiator bulkhead. It is held tightly in place with a couple of strips of Alien Tape. That stuff will stick anything to anything else! The whole deal took me about half an hour, and I should have done it decades ago.

 

[j-c-c-62]

My 62’ Fury, pretty stock 361/4bbl, original style fan and a non original (but correct) 22” 3 core radiator with a 13psi cap. Last year i installed a new high flow water pump and a 160-5 t stat. The T stat is a fail open type.
Most of my local cruising around I’ve been trouble free. On warmer days the temp will occasionally climb to the upper quarter of the gage and then the t stat opens and it comes back down to about half gage. The other day I went to a cruise in an adjacent town. It was in the upper 80s and I drove faster than usual over there - 65-70 mph. When I got into the town I noticed my gage was all the way to the hot side and after I parked it puked a qt or better of coolant out of the overflow. Driving home later I stayed 55-60 mph and the temp stayed normal. I have noticed this before that the temp climbs high when I drive faster. Obviously the engine works harder at higher speeds but the air flow is also higher? Radiator was flushed last year when the pump was installed.
My first thought was a stuck T stat, but it is almost new. Any thoughts?

I have dad discussions here recently whether 62's had fan shrouds or not. A fan shroud is best suited for idle or low vehicle speeds, same for the fan that at high vehicle speeds it likely serves only to partially block air flow, which maybe what you are describing. Does your car have a fan shroud? Or your lower hose is starting to collapse at high flows.

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

I know this is likely apples to kumquats compare, but my '38 Nash has a 318 with a tall skinny rad where the fan only pulls thru the top of the rad. I went to a different water pump and from a 5 to 7 clutched blade but my fan ended up about 1" further from the rad (without shroud). Driving around she was a bit warmer than expected, a few washers and some loctite later, no issues. Did your fan to rad distance change?

 

[j-c-c-62]

Good point, without a shroud, clearance between fan and radiator becomes a factor in fan efficiency moving air thru the radiator.

 

[Stumper]

Should have mentioned too that I am trying NOT to make any modifications from original on this car ( which is really tough to do). Even so, a catch can would catch the puke but not solve the over heating? Pulling the plugs to flush the block is a pretty radical step that I’d like to avoid is possible. My fan is pretty close to the radiator. I’d have to measure exact but less that a half inch.

 

[#41]

Crud can build up over time that flushing won't cure. Was the radiator professionally flushed, flow tested, and evaluated, or was it a driveway job?

Suggest you eventually lose the 160 thermostat. It does nothing to keep the car from overheating in the log run, it just makes it run at suboptimal low temperature when everything is working right.

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

Based on that, I have to ask why you changed radiator, water pump and what the stock thermostat temp was? Were you chasing a heat issue already? What did you change, if anything before the cooling system changes.