62 Belvedere 318 poly granny cruiser (one day i hope)

[ckessel]

If there are any welding supply places around you, see if you can test drive some. And yes, they are spendy depending on which one you get.

 

[icetech]

If there are any welding supply places around you, see if you can test drive some. And yes, they are spendy depending on which one you get.

good idea.. i watched a test video of the Crystal 2.0 from opterl or whatever.. and my god.. it's like looking through clear glass when welding, you can see everything soo well

 

[Nxcoupe]

I have a harbor freight unit that is adjustable and auto darkening. It really helped me improve my welds, along with tge harbor freight welder. It's auto controls are fantastic. Just tell it the wire thickness, metal thickness you're welding and it sets up the speed and heat for you. Improved my welding ability 100%, just like Evilyn Woodhead sped readin curse.

 

[icetech]

I have a harbor freight unit that is adjustable and auto darkening. It really helped me improve my welds, along with tge harbor freight welder. It's auto controls are fantastic. Just tell it the wire thickness, metal thickness you're welding and it sets up the speed and heat for you. Improved my welding ability 100%, just like Evilyn Woodhead sped readin curse.

yeah i have a Yeswelder 250 mig that i love sooo much... i had a HTP versamig that i fought with for 20 years... i hated it soo much.. the new welders are so nice. I gutted the versamig chassis and use it as a cabinet/roll around stand for the new welder

 

[icetech]

Corrective safety glasses showed up, of course they sent the wrong correction factor.. but they are good from bout 3' and closer.. which is as long as my arms are anyway.. so will work out..

 

[ckessel]

I have a pair of RX safety glasses, for close up, that I wear when doing TIG and sometimes metal work to see lines. MIG I can just go with the helmet. It's nice to be able to adjust below 8 when the amps are down and the arc isn't as bright. Need more light to see sometimes. There have been times when I hung battery powered LED work lights in the area when I'm in shadow.

 

[icetech]

All torque boxes in... And either my frame rails are made of 90% rust or these things are thin to start with

Need to clean/paint them but not feeling like it today.. i would probably get more done if i did more than 2 hours at a time..

 

[ckessel]

I measured sections of the rail as I cut them out for the SFC's. They were close to 14ga on my 65. I would imagine much of your fun is due to rust belt blessings.

 

[icetech]

k.. got home and gave the boxes a quick coat of paint.. and of course the can leaked down my hand..why would i put on the gloves that were 2' away..

Nothing major but something done.. still need to put the brake/fuel lines back up.. then back on the ground and touch up the alignment..

 

[icetech]

Another part waiting.... tick tock

 

[71Beeper]

Icetech - a word of advice on that Kevko pan.
I have one on my 360 engine. One thing I did before fitting it on the engine was to check the capacity as Kevko says it's 5 quarts. Pouring 5 quarts of water in the pan brings the top of the water level right at the baffle plate shown on the left in the above photo.
Which means some oil will get past that baffle and rush to the back of the pan upon quick acceleration as if it was a stock pan.

I would suggest to increase the width of that baffle plate to ensure you don't have that happen.
Something like this.

Don't forget you will have to put in some clearance for the pick-up tube.

One other thing - this pan will hold 5 quarts of cold oil, but oil does expand when it gets hot and I do realize alot of it will be circulating in the engine at the same time but I am going to do this modification the next time I have my pan off the engine.
Or I may invest in a Milodon oil pan.

 

[icetech]

Icetech - a word of advice on that Kevko pan.
I have one on my 360 engine. One thing I did before fitting it on the engine was to check the capacity as Kevko says it's 5 quarts. Pouring 5 quarts of water in the pan brings the top of the water level right at the baffle plate shown on the left in the above photo.
Which means some oil will get past that baffle and rush to the back of the pan upon quick acceleration as if it was a stock pan.

I would suggest to increase the width of that baffle plate to ensure you don't have that happen.
Something like this.
View attachment 2032811
Don't forget you will have to put in some clearance for the pick-up tube.

One other thing - this pan will hold 5 quarts of cold oil, but oil does expand when it gets hot and I do realize alot of it will be circulating in the engine at the same time but I am going to do this modification the next time I have my pan off the engine.
Or I may invest in a Milodon oil pan.

I'm gonna look at that as i put it together.. this pan is supposed to hold 4qt, not 5.. but will see

 

[icetech]

• Pan Depth: 7"
• Pan Capacity: 4 Quarts (3.8 Liters)
• System Capacity: 5 Quarts (4.7 Liters)

This is the M306, looks like stock, the welded up one holds 5

 

[icetech]

hmm.. the spot you pointed out looks different than what they show on the webpage though

 

[71Beeper]

Here's my Kevko pan.

You can see in the fist photo in the upper left on the pan rail where I had to get a screwdriver in there to get the pan off the engine because I used the red Permatex sealer on both sides of the pan gasket and literally cemented the pan to the engine - it was a bitch to get off.
But I did get it straightened and flat once again.
Second photo shows the baffling. The plate closest to the bottom is the one I would make wider to cover the sump up alot more to prevent oil getting thrown back towards the back of the pan

 

[icetech]

Here's my Kevko pan.
View attachment 2033492View attachment 2033493
You can see in the fist photo in the upper left on the pan rail where I had to get a screwdriver in there to get the pan off the engine because I used the red Permatex sealer on both sides of the pan gasket and literally cemented the pan to the engine - it was a bitch to get off.
But I did get it straightened and flat once again.
Second photo shows the baffling. The plate closest to the bottom is the one I would make wider to cover the sump up alot more to prevent oil getting thrown back towards the back of the pan

i glue my pans on the same way..... no leaks ever, worth it

 

[icetech]

I have a dilemma, A buddy gave me a brand new Ballinger AFR500 02 sensor setup.... i am not sure if i want to mount it and leave it in forever or just use it to get the tune good and pull it out...
Downside of leaving it in, much lower life since it would be used all the time (actually points that out in the manual)
Having to drill a 1" hole in my firewall (car has never been drilled and it bugs me) BUT.. the car isn't worth anything so i could swiss cheese it and it wouldn't matter...

And not sure how much i would need it once this carb is setup anyway..

I could also perm mount it and just put the sensor in to check the tune now and then also... meh... hate having to make up **** to overthink about.. stupid brain

 

[icetech]

Also wiring it.. i'm using fuse taps for now... don't want to cut up the harness anywhere... supposedly it only draws 3a, thought it would be much more to heat the sensor

 

[icetech]

o2 sensor is done.. and tach.. my car is getting very digital.. i feel soo modern Installed the new carb.. the primary butterflies hit the plenum separator, had to file a little for clearance which surprised me. Will make a new fuel line tonight when i get home (if i am in the mood)

 

[ckessel]

A little nostalgia for you.