A breaker points system should be easy to diagnose, even with a test lamp
First you must realize that on many Mopars, the "ignition run" (IGN1) wire goes DEAD during cranking, so the "ignition bypass" (IGN2) MUST be working to supply power
So get yourself some "stuff" which any Mopar mechanic should have:
A 12V test lamp
A digital multimeter. You don't need to spend over 25 bucks
Get some Radio Shack test leads, a couple of bags of the large, and maybe a bag of the med. and a package of just alligator clips
Make up at least one nice heavy long test clip wire, no14 wire, long enough to go from the coil+ to the battery (starter relay) or the alternator output stud. Personally, I like about 4 ft long, for other purposes.
1 Do you have primary power?
Turn key to run, measure voltage, or "look" with your 12V lamp at the ballast resistor. "Bump" the engine with the lamp/ meter clipped to the coil NEG terminal until you get a lamp. Should have exactly "same as battey" voltage. Now if you crank engine, you should get flashing on/ off
NOTE Cranking the engine using the key is DIFFERENT than jumpering the start relay. When using the key, the IGN2 "bypass" circuit is active. This should give you hot voltage at the coil +
2 When cranking by bypassing the start relay, the bypass circuit does NOT work, and the coil gets reduced voltage THROUGH the ballast resistor PLUS the battery is "dragged" down by the starter, so even less voltage goes to the coil
OK, so if you get a light flash when cranking the engine, at coil neg, this means the points are opening and closing and getting at least some voltage on the primary
3 IF at this point you still have no spark from the coil, REPLACE the condenser.
4 If that does not help, take your big clip lead, and hook from coil+ to the battery, and retest. If not spark, replace the coil. Don't leave the clip lead hooked up longer that to run the test.
