No Start Issues. Again!!!

[TURBOSCHILZ]

Me again fellas. 1971 Roadrunner, 383, all original. So, originally you all helped me figure out that I had a bad ballast resistor. Car worked well for a little while, then pulling it into the shop and it dies. Appeared to be the same issue, it acts like it wants to start when turning the key, but won't run when key is released. So figured it had to be the ballast resistor again, put in a cheap one, seemed to have worked. Yet the resistor that was removed was an original style open back and could clearly see that it wasn't burnt thru, so not sure if that's what happens to them or what? But anyways, it worked for a VERY short time and did it again, this time, no change of the ballast will get it to start. I've tested the ohms of all the resistors, the two that supposedly burnt out and a few new ones that I have that are new. They all come back anywhere between .5 and 1.8 ohms. Any idea what my issue could be here. The only piece that wasn't original was the Accel chrome coil. So swapped that out with an original and even tested with another stock style new coil, notta. Now everything is 100% stock, everything's been replaced with original or the closest I could find. Very frustrating as how am I ever supposed to trust this car driving down the road?...lol I'm a whee on the illiterate side when it comes to electronics, but for you pros, if you have some specs I can check, I do have a meter, don't really know how to use it, but I have one...lol Oh and my bulkhead connectors are all good, most have been replaced.

 

[pnora]

Did you check for voltage at the positive terminal on the coil? Need to know the voltage with the key on and while cranking. You have a simple system and if it was in front of me it would be diagnosed in minutes.

 

[RemCharger]

Condenser?

 

[turbine68rt]

What is your points gap setting?

 

[Sinitro]

Burning out a ballast resistor should only happen on a rare occasion...
But again today if Made in China all bets are off..
Chinese quality is bad news. I would suggest checking all of the wiring including bulkhead connectors and grounds closely.
Also the ignition switch as these tend to wear out and/or have intermittant operation.

Just my $0.02...

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

The ignition switch is also new. As per testing the coil voltage, I live by myself, so I'll have to get a buddy to come over and turn the key while I test it. But I'll post those results once I have them. As per point gap, I can't recall, but it was whatever was original, I'm thinking .016 or .017 if I remember correctly.

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

Oh and most ballast resistors I'm using cost $40, are SUPPOSEDLY made in the USA and match the original in appearance. If that helps any.

 

[GTXDAN]

Check your voltages like they suggested so you know where you are voltage wise. I'm with RemCharger and would change the condenser in the distributor. A bad condenser will keep it from running and are hard to isolate sometimes.

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

Surely I shouldn't have to scrape the new paint off underneath the ballast resistor? I don't recall it being bare metal underneath it prior to me repainting it. I don't imagine there's any way to test the starting voltage at the coil without someone actually sitting in the seat and turning the key by chance?

 

[Billccm]

Ballast resistor case does not require an electrical ground.

 

[RemCharger]

You will want to make sure that the ballast is getting a good ground where it mounts to the firewall.

There is no grounding of the resistor. That would short out the ignition circuit.
Voltage regulator, yes.

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

Okay, sweet. I was gonna say, I did have one just hanging there hooked up once and it seemed to work just fine...lol

 

[Bee1971]

Initially you said Bad Ballast Resistor

When you removed the wiring from both sides of the old Ballast and installed that same wiring on the new Ballast , sometimes that’s all it takes - Resistence in the wiring and or connectors by a simple move

Like mentioned earlier , a Test Light and or Volt Meter is your best friend

 

[Bee1971]

Do you have a remote start button or switch you could hook up to the starter relay ? For remote cranking

Do you have a test light ?

Turn the ignition switch key to the run position

Let us know if you have power to the positive side of coil

 

[Don Frelier]

Do you have a remote start button or switch you could hook up to the starter relay ? For remote cranking

Do you have a test light ?

Turn the ignition switch key to the run position

Let us know if you have power to the positive side of coil

Agree with above ^^^
I would suggest key in run position and pull a plug wire set it about 1/4" away from a good ground.
Jump or remote starter switch attached to the starter relay and watch the spark on the wire.
Should be blue/white and crisp.
NOT yellow/orange and lazy.

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

I did test it with my light, it is not on when the keys in the run position. It does however light up when you turn to the start position.

 

[Bee1971]

With key in the run position

Are you getting power at both sides of the Ballast Resistor

With your test light , check on the male spades of the ballast resistor before the black plastic connectors or wiring

If you have power on both male spades of Ballast Resistor

Now check with your test light on the opposite side of black plastic connectors where your wiring connectors enter for power on both sides

If you don’t have any power to either side of the Ballast Resistor in the run position

 

[TURBOSCHILZ]

With the key in the run position I don't see any power at either side of the ballast resistor. Light doesn't seem to light up in any of those 4 positions.

 

[Bee1971]

OK - Turn off your key ignition switch

Now onto your bulkhead connector at firewall by power brake booster

Follow your engine wiring harness into your bulkhead connector

Two white clips that you squeeze and then pull out wiring harness for engine

You will have a connector for your variable wiper motor

You will have a connector for your engine wiring harness

You will have a connector for your forward wiring harness for lights etc. Large wiring harness

 

[pnora]

The ignition switch is also new. As per testing the coil voltage, I live by myself, so I'll have to get a buddy to come over and turn the key while I test it. But I'll post those results once I have them. As per point gap, I can't recall, but it was whatever was original, I'm thinking .016 or .017 if I remember correctly.

Run a temporary wire from the battery positive to the coil and crank it immediately. It should fire right away. If it does not you have secondary ignition problems.