Vinyl Top Install Question

696969 · Nov 27, 2012

Hi guys. I recently got in a new Vinyl Top from Legendary to replace my old beaten one. I have a 69 Satellite and am wondering about trim and glass removal.

Is it necessary to have the front and or rear glass out to do the job? Or, can the window trim somehow be removed without removing the glass?

There is a lot of rust under the old vinyl (I see dark spots as well as raised bumps), so this job is gonna require some special attention.

Propwash · Nov 27, 2012

I really don't see how you could being the front windshield seal really takes up the the whole area and that vinyl needs to fold down in and be glued into the frame opening. Rear you can get into the lip a bit more than the front, but honestly you're selling yourself short by not removing the glass, cleaning up the area and getting the vinyl glued on all the way down and around the entire lip. Sounds like you have some rust issues, so odds are you'll be needing to do some work to clean that up inside the framing anyways.

Good luck

roadrunnerman · Nov 27, 2012

Like prop says,it is best to clean out the window channel to get good glue adhesion for the vinyl to adhere at it's best. I will be doing the same thing to mine and i noticed that my vinyl is also held by the trim clips so i know i will have to take out my windshield. There is a member here that sells the new gasket and clips at a reasonable price.You would be better in the long run to get everything off/out and clean it good. It will make installing the new vinyl a whole lot easier.

trimmer · Nov 27, 2012

It is not absolutely mandatory to remove the glass in order to install a vinyl top, however as these cars age I would highly recommend removing them. Removing the glass will allow the clean up and repair of issues found around the pinch weld area. Bubbles of rust usually indicate metal repair and I have found that there will most probably be repair needed around where the reveal molding clips go. Buy yourself a reveal molding tool from your local auto parts store and learn how to use it properly or you can ruin your reveal moldings. I have been installing tops on these types of cars since 1968 and have done so many I have lost count. Make sure your new top is centered properly and your seams are strait (I do not like crooked seams and they will cost you points in the car show judging). Hope this helps.

RustyRatRod · Nov 28, 2012

Just paint on a faux vinyl top.

696969 · Nov 28, 2012

I figure, screw it. I'm just gonna pay the pros to do it right. That will be my B-day/Xmas present to myself. I brought it to a shop I've worked with before on another mopar of mine. They reupholstered the back seat for me, flawlessly, I might add. I just don't have the facility to do it. I'll stick to the electrical and small stuff.

BTW, the top used to be pearl, but it's gonna be black.

Before:

During:

wannadrag · Nov 28, 2012

Hard to tell,is there any rot around the back glass?

trimmer · Nov 28, 2012

That center seam top is not correct for a 1969 Mopar. It should have two seams and no padding of any kind under it. From the photos above i wonder how long that body filler is going to hold up under that new top. That is not the proper way to make repairs on a car that appears to look as nice as that one from the belt molding down. Shame on that "Pro". Also the seam visible on the A pillar should be in the same area where the roof metal is welded to the A pillar, not four inches down more like two inches down. It looks like you are getting a quick slam job done to your car. I hope you are not paying a lot of money because I don't figure that is going to last very long. Body filler over rust, ABSOLUTELY NOT !! I hate to be a know it all but I also hate wasting money and time on inferior workmanship. Please take note that I am mot trying to offend anyone. Just my opinion.

wannadrag · Nov 28, 2012

I would have to agree with trimmer.That top should be stripped,epoxy primed,body work then sealed and painted.Those tops are porus and not waterproof.

Propwash · Nov 28, 2012

Whoa! X3!!! Spreading that Philadelphia Cream Cheese over that rust is a complete waste of time and your money. You have the top off, the rust isn't that bad...at least get rid of it, seal it up right and be done with it. These guys are right on base....That is not going to last very long at all, a year if you're lucky.

RustyRatRod · Nov 28, 2012

Dude, you're being robbed. Get that job stopped RIGHT NOW. That top needs to go to bare metal and prepped from there or it will never be right. What a lame *** bunch of bullshit that is.

fatecaptured · Nov 28, 2012

Propwash said:
Whoa! X3!!! Spreading that Philadelphia Cream Cheese over that rust is a complete waste of time and your money.

X's 3 on the **** prep job. Nice looking Bagel though...lol :icon_pirat:

SoCal440GTX · Nov 28, 2012

Rust loves to fester under vinyl tops. Since you have access to it now, now is the time to do it right. I wish I could go back and redo the one I had done. Now my vinyl top is bulging and looks like there is popcorn under it.

696969 · Nov 29, 2012

:tied up:

trimmer · Dec 1, 2012

I don't understand this photo. It still does not appear to be the correct way to make repairs to the rust. Please enlighten me.

696969 · Dec 2, 2012

The photo uses imagery to convey a sense of shame on my part for doing this the "quick and dirty" way.

Unfortunately, I do not possess a lot of space and equipment to do this myself. Also, I don't have deep pockets, wish to spend the kind of scratch needed, or have the time to do the job more thoroghly, i.e. with a shop that specializes in restoration. This car is a daily driver, but I live in SoCal and generally park the car in an enclosed space.

I will say, although this job was not the concourse treatment, It turned out very satisfactory and steps were taken to prevent further moisture from reaching the metal and the rust was treated to an extant. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out and am confident it will be ok for some time, perhaps 5-10 years, which is fine with me.

Not too bad. I'll report back in a couple years!

WileE · Dec 4, 2012

The posters here could NOT be more correct. Remember, "rust never sleeps". I've been doing this work since these cars were only "used" cars. Please don't take this personally, but I'd be ashamed to do this "work". What looks good now is only hiding the inevitable, the roof will be swiss cheese, I've seen the outcome of this quick-fix.

696969 · Dec 5, 2012

WileERobby said:
The posters here could NOT be more correct. Remember, "rust never sleeps". I've been doing this work since these cars were only "used" cars. Please don't take this personally, but I'd be ashamed to do this "work". What looks good now is only hiding the inevitable, the roof will be swiss cheese, I've seen the outcome of this quick-fix.

So, how much would it cost to "do it right" and exactly what would that include? I talked to an auto restorer around here who said the "right" way to do it was to replace the roof entirely. I'm sure that job would have been about $3-4k.

How long do you think the approach I took will last on my car? 10 Years? If we're talking 5-15 years, that's ok by me, given the expenditure.

Propwash · Dec 5, 2012

Even a wirewheel down to clean metal, Duraglass/Metal to metal the seam and a couple coats of Rustbullet/POR15 would fend off the inevitable for quite a long time. You'd probably be looking at about $100 bucks in materials to include the coating, fill and a couple wheels. Ultimate way to do it; blast it, epoxy or self etch prime, Filler (depending on what primer-possibly a prime coat over the etch) base coat/clear call it done. I imagine said and done $1,000-$1,500 bucks. Judging by the pic's I don't see any reason to change out the roof-absolutely no need for that unless you have some serious rust/holes not shown in the pic's.

If that lasts 5 years without bubbling up under the vinyl I would be extremely impressed. Even if you live in a much more dry area than myself, you're gonna still wash the thing and will see some moisture now and then from mother nature. Around here, absolutely no chance of making it 5 years. Maybe 1 or 2 at best.

roadrunnerman · Dec 5, 2012

Not saying your new vinyl looks bad but what material did the bodyshop use for your top. I do not see the two seams that are supposed to be on your vinyl? If they used cheaper material, it may not last 5 yrs. Your car looks great as it is with the new top. All i am saying is if you spent "X" amount on this and then 1-2 yrs later you have to spend more $$$ to repair it again, you didn't really save any money. Working with a budget i can fully understand your position. Again, your car does look great.

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