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Zinc Oil and Zinc Oil Additives, for flat tappet setups, recommendations?

I use SWEPCO 306 15-40 from good 'ol Texas with no additives. This stuff has Zn and P levels of up to 1600 and 1200 respectively and reportedly tested at no less than 1200 of each batch. I learned about this oil when I was tight with the local Porsche community, and let's face it, their $hit is more expensive than our $hit, so if the 306 is recommended in a big dollar 911 engine by Porsche engine guru Jerry Woods, then I suppose it will work for my MoPars. Also don't forget older 911's are air cooled, and air cooled engines are harder on motor oil. The 201 gear oil is also very good and widely used in the Porsche community primarily in the older cars. So far it's been in my Belvedere since the first fire up and everything is A OK.
 
interesting there Meeps. where can one procure said oil?
 
You have to call SWEPCO and find out who your local rep is. This oil is sold in quantity to fleets and is not available in stores - unless you see it for sale in some Euro repair shops for $9.00 / qt. The price I get is a little over $7.00 / qt. That's not cheap, and sort of in line with the other specialty oils, but it works.
 
Amsoil 10-40 Signature. High Zinc.
 
Meep-Meep said:
You have to call SWEPCO and find out who your local rep is. This oil is sold in quantity to fleets and is not available in stores - unless you see it for sale in some Euro repair shops for $9.00 / qt. The price I get is a little over $7.00 / qt. That's not cheap, and sort of in line with the other specialty oils, but it works.
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ya, $7 bucks or so is what i pay for the vv-851. ill give them a jingle and see. i should be able to buy it under the biz name and get the fleet discount.

thanks Meeps!
 
After losing TWO Comp cams due to the changes in the oil, I became ever diligent about it.
I run Valvoline VR1. I'll also dump in some of the Comp Cams break in lube when I am about halfway to an oil change.
No more failures.
 
Been running Valvoline All-Fleet 15W-40. Lots of zinc and other good stuff. I actually think the old 413 is using less oil and smokes less since I switched to this from Valvoline Racing. If I ever get the 440 together,it'll see Brad Penn or Valvoline Racing oil.
 
Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, I've been using Comp Cams high zinc for the past several oil changes. Main things I've picked up on over the years is to use a formulated petroleum based break in oil, for break in - Don't experiment. After break in, as long as your high performance motor does not require the use of Cat converters, use a high zinc oil period... why give your motor anything less than the best possible protection? Don't spend $10k on a motor for your baby and then skip to regular oil to save $6-7on each oil change.
 
I'm reviving this discussion as I just "trolled" into this marine oil: http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products_overviews.sd?iid=38&catid=24

Then it occurred to me that all those marine flat tappet engines out there - have to be the vast majority of boat engines. I started looking around and most of the major oil manufacturers have a marine blend. So the question to the big brains are:

1) How much zinc is in these blends?
2) If it's got good zinc, any reason I couldn't run it in my flat tappet Mopar?

Just found another...http://www.pennzoil.com/other-car-products/engine-oil/pennzoil-marine-4-cycle-heavy-duty-engine-oil/
 
440+6 said:
Lucas makes a high zinc break in additive that can be used with every oil change (just less of it) to protect flat tappet engines.
But most say that oils with high zinc already in them work better.
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I do both. Rotella diesel oil 15-45 still has 1080 PPM. I also add Lucas#10036 zinc additive. Four ounces will raise that PPm to double that. It's a cheap way to have great protection. One bottle is good for four oil changes. Rotella is 13.00 for four quarts. In 1969 Chrysler recommended 1000-1200 PPM for adequate coverage. There are others that have the adequate PPM. It is your choice as to how you get it.
 
Local cam grinder uses ZDTPLUS, Delta cams.
 
After trashing a fresh rebuild because I ignored the advise to use zinc loaded oil I've been using Brad Penn. I have been thinking about switching to Royal Purple because it is easier to buy locally.
 
I use champion classic & muscle oil, no need to add anything at oil changes.
image.jpg
 
This is one of those questions that will get you a 100 different answers if you ask 100 people. My personal choice is Comp Cams Break-in oil and then their 10-30 Synthetic Blend. I've found over the years that the synthetic blends do not 'sludge' up the inside of the motor if changed regularly. I've found it totally unnecessary to use additives with the Comp Cams Oil. I know everyone is passionate about their own choice, as I am about mine. I can buy it locally or through Summit. In addition, Comp Cams is a major NHRA sponsor and I like to support companies that support my interests.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1594/overview/
 
I've been running Moble One along STP (zinc in it claims) for years with good results. (Hundreds of thousand of miles)
That's the best of both worlds, I suppose.
Syn oil together with zinc.
And I really haven't used STP till the last couple of years too when the engine got really old.
Probably too late to check yours, but my Advance recently discontinued Valvoline ZR1 and I bought a lifetime supply of that for around 4 dollars a quart.
 
After a couple of experiments... I am using 5W30 HPS Oil from Royal Purple now....engine runs great ! Oil pressure 25 psi @ idle ( in Gear ) and @ 60 psi on the highway. Oil filter is from WIX. My cam was broken in with 15W40 Dino Oil and a big bottle of Lucas stuff
( EDE Performer ) last November... after the successfull break in, I changed the oil to go with synthetics.... works great

Greetings Juergen
 
Cornpatch MO said:
This is what I have used for several years, with plain 10-30 weight Valvolene. Go to the website and see why raceing oils and diesel oils is not recommended................................MO
Click to expand...
So basically the point of the site is that diesel oils have too much detergent, too low a " shear rating” and too much viscosity for gas engines.
And only “some” racing oils have “a level” of zinc, not enough detergent and not a wide enough range of viscosity.
Do any have an opinion of Valvoline ZR1synthetic which I just bought a lifetime supply of? Sound like I just need to change it more often. Not a big temp swing were I live.

I’ve been using Mobil 1 in a 86 cop 318 for years with no problems and the last couple of years starting adding STP to be safe.
Well, the engine is getting old and if figured the extra viscosity would be good.
 
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