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Crankcase Evac. installed this weekend

2059

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During the past couple short road trips I noticed my pcv valve cap had blown off the valve cover neck. Didn't think much of it, took it apart, spread the retainer spring and reinstalled. Well, the Sunday drive a couple weeks ago I got back to the shop and noticed that my oil filler cap on the other side was gone (it was laying on the header) AND the pcv valve cap had blown off. SOOOO... ordered an evac kit from Summit and installed it yesterday afternoon. First; I know your supposed to install near the primary tubes in the collector. I wasn't going to cut into and weld on polished, ceramic headers. Second; i didn't install the tubes with the cut that way. Just pointing at the entry point. Third; i don't weld enough to be really good at it but it works with a little grinding. Lastly; I connected the elbows to the caps that way so I don't have ANY chance of a nut coming loose, inside the cap, on the elbow and causing grief. We'll see how this performs and if I like it.

3 hours later; test drive. can't say I noticed a difference however; no blown off caps and it didn't appear to have sucked any significant amount through the tubes.
 

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Sweet job!
Awesome pics.
Thanks for posting this 2059
I will do this on my 63 Max Wedge Polara Clone.

"That be a Big-Bad HEMI"

"super-bee_ski"
 
Looks good to me.....and did you install the one way valves??
 
I can see the part you welded in the exh pipe has the check valve in it. Thats the check valve on the end of the nipple you welded in the pipe. They say it wont work to good if you run a full exh system. Thats why I just vent both my valve covers. I run the hoses down under the car but they never have any oil come out of them and I dont have any crankcase pressure problems at all. I hope it works good for you as they say with the back pressure of a full exh it wont work right but I have never tried it as thats just what I heard and read. I usually just see that evac setup on race cars with open headers. Good luck with it , Ron

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Your system will work - albeit not ideal. They are best installed in the collectors, but you are not far down. The bigger issue will be your exhaust system back pressure. The more back pressure you have the less efficient the system will be - AND - the shorter the life of the check valves. You should run as open an exhaust as possible to optimize efficiency and check valve life. Mufflers with baffles (flow masters) are much more restrictive than straight through glass packs. Check your vacuum pull now at the breather end of your hoses. You should feel a good vacuum pull even at idle. Check this periodically and if you ever feel the vacuum gone or actual pressure pulses - the check valves are shot.
 
How did this workout for you? Do you know how much vacuum it's pulling at WOT? What exhaust system n mufflers are you running?
Sorry to hit you with all the questions but I just ordered this for my 660hp dual quad 440ci street driven small block and I'm very curious as to how it's working for a real user. I've heard so many different opinions about this on a street car with mufflers but figured I'd gamble and give it a go.
Im running 1 7/8" to 3" collector TTI headers.... Full 3" X-pipe TTI exhaust with Flowmaster Super 10 Series race mufflers all ceramic coated.

Thanks
 
Thanks Cranky. Just the parts ya see that came with the kit. Not one way like a pcv but baffles on the end of the nipples.

Add some breathers to the valve covers with the pcv, crankcase pressure can cause all sorts of oil leaks and gremlins. Breathers do get clogged so make they are new or cleaned with degreaser.
 
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