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ignition trouble

icecat66

icecat66

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:37 PM
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Location
Bloomsburg pa
1973 Charger SE
Does this make a difference.. no spark cranks like hell
20140822_172812.jpg
20140822_172821.jpg
 
Do you have the 5 wire, dual ballast resistor and the 4 pin ecu? My understanding is you can use the 4 pin ecu with either the 4 or 5 wire connector. And not to use the 5 pin ecu with the 4 wire connector. Might be easier to check out some simple wiring diagrams online to check for voltages and check the pickup. If they check out, the ecu is bad.
 
Thats fine as all the newer ECU boxes for our Mopars are 4 wire as it just does not use the 5th wire any more as it was juat and extra 12 volt key on feed that went thru the 5 ohm ballast to turn on some ECU components. They eliminated it as the ECU already had a 12 volt key on feed and they just used that to turn it on in all the later ones. That dont mean yours cant go bad but it will work fine in that setup. Ron
 
no spark could be bad ECU, bad pick-up coil in dist, or bad ballast resistor on firewall.

I suggest taking a voltage reading at coil "+" terminal with key on and also while cranking. Take ohm meter and test resistor with wires disconnected.

This is the main reason why you carry spare ECU & resistors in the car
 
thanks got a new ECU and nothing so I will move to the ballast resistor and last the distributor. My buddy checked the coil and we even swapped it out to make sure but hell ya never know both could have been bad.. Like I said all crank no spark... Thanks for all the help if ya think of anything else please send it my way..
 
My buddy with a 74 Cuda had a similar problem. He had a factory manual so we did some trouble shooting with a VOM(volt, ohm meter). It turned out the connector from the dist. had some corrosion so after a cleaning he was back on the road. Good luck.
 
Ok replaced ballast resistor still no spark so new ignition box new ballast and no spark still crank crank crank... will the neutral safety not being hooked up affect this no start situation???
 
if engine is turning over, neutral switch is working.

How many volts at the "+" side of coil with key on? With key in crank position?
What were the OHM's reading of the pick-up coil inside distributor?
What are volts readings at terminals on the ballast resistor with key on and in crank position?

where are you testing for spark? At the wire that goes to plug or wire that comes out of coil?
 
Just to be sure. Make sure that the ecu is well grounded to the firewall and that you have good ground form the chassis to the engine. If the ecu isn't grounded well it can cause lots of weird problems.
 
How about doing some diagnostic tests now that you have thrown a lot of parts at it?

1. Simple test: Remove the coil wire from the center post of the distributor and connect a screw driver into the end and lay the screwdriver on the engine so that there is a 1/4" gap from screwdriver blade to the engine block or head. Crank and see if you gets good blue spark jumping that gap.
2. If yes, then with the coil wire reconnected to the distributor and connect one of the spark plug wires to the screwdriver and repeat to see if you have a good blue spark that will jump at least 1/4 in open air.

Report back and we'll go from there.
 
nm9stheham said:
How about doing some diagnostic tests now that you have thrown a lot of parts at it?

1. Simple test: Remove the coil wire from the center post of the distributor and connect a screw driver into the end and lay the screwdriver on the engine so that there is a 1/4" gap from screwdriver blade to the engine block or head. Crank and see if you gets good blue spark jumping that gap.
2. If yes, then with the coil wire reconnected to the distributor and connect one of the spark plug wires to the screwdriver and repeat to see if you have a good blue spark that will jump at least 1/4 in open air.

Report back and we'll go from there.
Click to expand...
Will do... on a crazy work schedule next few days.
 
Same on this end....do you have a voltmeter? If not, pick up one while you are out; you will likely be using it again on an older car like this, and it may be very necessary for troubleshooting this issue.
 
Ordered a distributor figure that has to be it I get no attempt at turning over at all and I have voltage upto the replaced coil so that's good... if not the diz then back to the drawing board haha
 
yup, that's the correct way to diagnose a problem, just spend money and throw parts at it until something fixes it sooner or later......
 
How did you chekc the voltage to the coil? Cranking or with the key in RUN?
What makes you convinced it is the distributor rather than:
- igntion module
- ignition switch
- reluctor gap
- several wiring points in the circuit, including grounds

I hate to see you spend $$ just throwing parts at it, but to each his own. This problem is very strightforward to troubleshoot.
 
Well got the motor to run and she sounds good.. problem was well embarrassing.. my dad and I did not take the car a part so we went off the other guys duct tape labels on the wires... turns out the - coil wire was not hooked up we had the tack hook up like it should be... well put the other wire I found labeled some kinda critic writing bull **** and bang ran like a champ after a little timing set..... lesson learned haha.....

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for all your help
 
Its good to have a new ignition.... save the old parts for spares and recodition the distributor for a spare... get both new and old parts running for the next time something quits..
 
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