Not a Restoration but definitely a project.
- Thread starter condor74
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condor74
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I looked it up and the orange one is supposed to hold more. It has a 402 stamped on it. It brings the oil capacity to 6 quarts total with filter. The chrome one is rated to hold 4 quarts in the pan and 1 in the filter. As a bonus the orange one tucks up tighter leaving more room for steering linkage to clear.
Basket case
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great project!
condor74
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Things are coming along. Right now I am trying to figure out which head gaskets to use on the new motor . I have standard Felpro gaskets which I think are around .037 thick. My other options is a set of copper gaskets that are .080 thick. I am trying to decide weather to run it with the 11.5 to 1 specs or try and drop it down with the thicker gaskets for pump gas. Using the Wallace calculator This brings me to a more pump gas friendly 10.1 to 1. I am torn between going for highest performance level i can or making it something I can drive more often.
One other concern is I have heard and read stories about copper gaskets leaking in coolant and oil passages. I do not plan to o ring the block at this point. I have read different opinions on this. I will use high tac and silicone around the ports and retorquw when warm. Also contemplating head studs or at least ARP bolts.
One other concern is I have heard and read stories about copper gaskets leaking in coolant and oil passages. I do not plan to o ring the block at this point. I have read different opinions on this. I will use high tac and silicone around the ports and retorquw when warm. Also contemplating head studs or at least ARP bolts.
Have you calculated your compression with your specs with the .039 Felpro yet? If you can get the proper specs of your components and take into account the size of your cam and elevation you may find that these gaskets might be just fine. In my street car I have 10.8 CR and pump gas works just fine.
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condor74
Well-Known Member
I have used online calculators with real world data from my engine. According to multiple calculators with the Felpro gaskets and an 88cc combustion chamber and 20cc dome. I come in at 11.4 to 1. With my .080 copper gaskets I come in at 10.1 to 1. I would love to run closer to 11 to 1 with the timing backed put of it some and have the ability to crank it up when good race gas is available. 11.4 is pushing it a bit. I would like to be able to drive and enjoy the car with the family as well.
That's quite a jump in compression between the 2 head gaskets. Have you checked into the Cometic gaskets? How about these in a .060 thickness.
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets C5464-060
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condor74
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the long delays. I am very close to installing the motor. Heads are on. I went with the felpro gaskets. Tonight I primed the oil system with my electric drill and a home made priming rod. My cordless drill did not have enough power to turn the pump once pressure built up. Went with my cord drill and I have over 70 psi. I slowly rotated the motor until oil came out of the rocker shafts. All seams well. I installed new motor mounts on the engine. So it is about ready to go in. I have a choice of 2 torque converters to use. I have a stock stall reman torque converter and I have an old 10 inch converter made by GER thunderbolt. Stalls about 3500. I have used the thunderbolt before so I know it works but the company had a poor reputation for quality. I am financially challenged so buying a new one at this point is not an option. Can’t wait to hear it run.
If you redo the fuel system to be ethanol friendly you can run E85 to help with the compression. Great project!
condor74
Well-Known Member
Well being as I am still carburetor searching E85 is a good option. Problem is I know absolutely nothing about other than import turbo guys seem to like it. What kind of jetting and mods do I need to make to run it? Where is a good place to research it. ?
Don't quote me but I think you need 10-20% bigger jets for E85. I think getting a fuel pump & lines are pretty easy as most stuff today is ethanol tolerant. I think the quick fuel E85 carbs are already jetted up but I would call them. The big benefit is no carbon build up! Maybe add some top end lube to the fuel and your set.
Sonny Black
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this color....is awesome!!!!..do it...J/S
Sonny
Sonny
Basket case
Well-Known Member
that is sweet
condor74
Well-Known Member
So today I tried to get some work done on the car. I had a friends car I was working on and had to move it first. I have a very steep driveway that goes down to my garage. My 1969 Dodge Dart race car was parked aiming down hill behind it so I went to start it. First noticed no fuel pressure on the gauge. I added fuel and go to start. Motor lights off ok but oil pressure is low. Hanging around 20 psi at 1000 rpm. Usually it is 70 cold and eventually settles at 40 hot. I shut it off immediately and check the oil. Oil is way overfilled and is very thin. I drain about 9 qts. Add some fresh oil I have laying around and restart it. Pressure is back up to normal. Apparently with the car parked on a hill the gas drained into the carb and down passed the rings. I back the car down the hill so that can’t happeb again.
Any way Motor is ready to go in the satellite but spent the first half of the day messing with the dart
Any way Motor is ready to go in the satellite but spent the first half of the day messing with the dart
condor74
Well-Known Member
Running out of things to put on the motor. I am doing a minor repair to the transmission then it will be ready to install hopefully this weekend.
Here is a pic as it stands. Ignore the Edelbrock carb. It is there just to plug the top of the intake. I am hoping to get an 850 dp for it. I may start and break in the motor with the edelbrock but it is not the permanent carb
Here is a pic as it stands. Ignore the Edelbrock carb. It is there just to plug the top of the intake. I am hoping to get an 850 dp for it. I may start and break in the motor with the edelbrock but it is not the permanent carb
condor74
Well-Known Member
Spent a long day working on the car today. Made some progress made some reverse progress. I spent the morning working on the transmission. I noticed when I had the engine out there was too much end play on the transmission input shaft. I popped the pump out and pulled the front and rear clutch packs put along with the 2nd gear band. Found missing thrust washer. Easy enough I have a truck 727 in the garage I pop apart and grab the thrust washer. Now I can’t get the band strut back in with out dropping the pan. Ok I planned on installing a reverse valve body I bought from Craigslist 8 years ago. I slam the strut in. New valve body slide the pump in and am ready to roll. I have 2 torque converters on the ground. The one I removed from it was a cheap GER thunderbolt 3000 stall converter which I installed back in 2001. I have heard bad things about them and was actually planning to install a new stock converter even though I hated to give up the stall. Well matching it up to my moroso flex plate I found I only had bolts to fit the GER. They are not the stock bolts and are larger diameter. I figure it is a sign and decide on the high stall. Anyway. I put it all together tighten up everything. Engine in the car exhaust hooked up. As I am rotating the crank shaft it locks up. Start looking. One of the bolts did not seat flush on the torque converter. I try to tighten it and the threads pull out. I have 2 choices at this point. Remove the engine oil pan and try and repair the threads in the car. Or remov the transmission order stock torque converter bolts and install the other torque converter. If I had a rack I would pop the transmission out quick and swap converters. On the ground it is going to suck. Anyway. Engine is in.
Id run it with 3 bolts. Can you remove the starter and access the bolt hole? Pretty tough to heli coli or oversize drill a converter. Hole is very shallow. I've run 3 before in race cars . Never had an issue.
Doug
Doug
condor74
Well-Known Member
It is a 10”converter. The mounting pads are outside the converter so they go all they way through. I attempted to put In a longer bolt last night and I ran out of threads. And the bolt tightened up before it was flush with the flex plate. No room to get a drill or a normal length tap in there. My last ditch solution is to make a tap out of a longer bolt. Hopefully make some threads and put my 1/4 inch longer bolts in the holes. Here is my home made tap.
If it works it works. If it doesn’t then I will pull the trans. Not sure on running 3 bolts. It may hold together but I spent a bunch of money getting this thing balanced and don’t want to throw that off.
If it works it works. If it doesn’t then I will pull the trans. Not sure on running 3 bolts. It may hold together but I spent a bunch of money getting this thing balanced and don’t want to throw that off.
condor74
Well-Known Member
I don’t know if removing the starter will get me to the bolt holes. My flex plate has 3 different patterns for flex plate bolts and the current torque converter is on the inner pattern with 3/8 bolts.
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