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Jeggs Cam Recommendations

Auggie56

Auggie56

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Rocmendatios from Jeggs on my 78' 440 build.

Your thoughts B Body People?

Will just be a street racer an occasional trip to the track. Compression ratio is 8.2:1. I chose not to run a stall speed converter as in my knowledge they are negative drivability wise when just driven on the street, so right now it's a stock converter. Rear axle is a 3:26 open.



Seth W. (JEGS Performance)



Here are the parts I would recommend.
Intake: https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/7193/10002/-1
Cam and Lifter https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/CL21-306-4/10002/-1
That is the largest cam that can be used with a stock stall converter. You will need to upgrade your valve springs as well with that cam.
This is a kit Cam, Lifter, Timing set and springs. https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K21-306-4/10002/-1

I would run a 750 CFM like this one.
Carb: https://www.jegs.com/i/Demon-Carburetion/333/SDA-750-MS/10002/-1
Seth W.
JEGS Customer Service
 
Last edited:
Just my two cents worth. I'd steer clear of the kits. Comp makes cams. And good cams at that. However, they don't make lifters, springs, chains, etc. Whatever is laying on the shelves is what gets thrown in the kits.
 
Are you building to what you have now, or towards what you will have. I'd recommend a Comp xtreme energy 268 cam with a Eddy performer rpm, holley 750 vac. secondary & a suregrip center section. That will you great torque for the 3:23 rear.
 
69 GTX said:
Are you building to what you have now, or towards what you will have. I'd recommend a Comp xtreme energy 268 cam with a Eddy performer rpm, holley 750 vac. secondary & a suregrip center section. That will you great torque for the 3:23 rear.
Click to expand...

What I have now is school teachers tired 318. I just want something that runs better than this low compression RB engine. Dollars and cents are an issue with me.
Thanks
 
Jeggs recommendations just plain suck
Pick a .904 cam instead of a chevy cam
Bullet, Howards Jones or Voodoo for that compression and stall and gear
around [email protected] .300+ lobe lift
14 degrees less duration will close the intake 6-8 degrees earlier greatly increasing dynamic compression for your very low compression build
you will have similar lift to a 268 or 270 chevy grind from comp and more area
Stock TQ cannot be beat for that combo- take your time to learn how to tune it
with that gear and street use a 650 or so AVS would be second choice 750 ok but will not help much with your gear and usage
Stock manifold is fine for that rpm range unless you just want to save weight
you are not doing a 390 gear high rpm build so rpm air gap is little help
you can home port your heads
headers or stock will make a difference on your exhaust duration
but goal is less overlap than stock, closing intake earlier than stock with more open around where the piston is moving at max velocity and thereafter then getting the valve closed to build compression
with stock converter (standard or HP converter) you cannot afford to lose ANY TORQUE at 2000
you did not say what chassis (how heavy) you can do more with a Dart than with a Monaco
I'm not saying that you cant make a stock low compression combo work
very low gears and rev the hell out of it, BIG cam
but that combination is strip only
even the 440 Magnum cam with the HP converter sucks on the street
Ever drive a 440 Cordoba? Defines "RUNS HOT" and OK only on the freeway not around town- been there- done that
combo recommended will be the best you can do stoplight to stoplight and 1/8th mile
 
Leave the stock cam and with that compression add a turbo. Mild boost will get plenty of power. Look for a good used turbo to save $.
Mike
 
Auggie56 said:
Here are the parts I would recommend.
Intake: https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/7193/10002/-1
Cam and Lifter https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/CL21-306-4/10002/-1
That is the largest cam that can be used with a stock stall converter. You will need to upgrade your valve springs as well with that cam.
This is a kit Cam, Lifter, Timing set and springs. https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K21-306-4/10002/-1

I would run a 750 CFM like this one.
Carb: https://www.jegs.com/i/Demon-Carburetion/333/SDA-750-MS/10002/-1
Click to expand...
The first problem is you asked for a opinion and your going to get 30 different ones.
And since you are asking....

The above recommendation is fine with a minor exception.
1st. What tire size and wheel size are you running. This effects cam choice. As well if it is a 4spd manual, automatic, 5 spd manual etc.....
2nd. The springs in the kit. can they simply just be installed out of the box on to the head with no machine work? Check.

Otherwise, I think the intake and carb are good choices. While I'm more of a Carter fan, AVS or a TQ are my weapons of choice in many builds, that carb is above is fine. Just expensive for my pockets. I can do more with less and save lots-o-money doing it. IS the Holley carb better? Sure! Is the cost of the carb and tuning parts worth the extra speed in what your doing? That is on you.
IMO, the cam choice is OK. Wyrmrider jumps and shouts (And sometimes shames people) about how you have to use a spec'd .904 cam or your wrong. At this entry level your in, you will never ever feel the difference and just stress out the mind, wallet on better than the packaged parts and prolong the build.

The Chrysler engine have every advantage over a Chevy engine and not taking advantage of one part to it's max doesn't mean your not going to make power. You will do very well even if the cam is not up to the spec of others. Being there are so many cam choices, you will get a million different opinions on what cam to use.

Over all, iMO, it is a fine start to your adventure.
 
with either of the comp cams he needs to change his converter
I agree sorta on the carb Holly is unnecessary $$$ for very little gain- if any
if he already has a TQ iv not I think AVS is more bang for the buck with that build
.904 cam will not make much difference on HP but will help the torque big time Dynamic compression between a 270 and 256
there is another active thread with a 262 comp
would not consider the obsolete 270 in any case
 
Last edited:
I did a conversion from a 318 to a 440. Like mentioned above, you will get many different answers. Here's my 2 cents.

If you don't really care about gobs of HP and want to save some cash, then rebuild the 318 and top it off with a intake, carb and headers.

If you want to change to a 440, keep in mind you may need to change allot of other parts too...rad, k-member, torsion bars, linkages, maybe driveshaft. The 440 swap will be underwhelming unless you bump up that compression ratio. I've done the low comp ratio and a simple bump up closer to 10:1 will wake it up.

Bottom line, whatever big changes you make will effect the whole car and upgrades will be needed.
 
Nothing wrong with the suggested parts.
But
I would suggest raising the compression if you can even 1/2 a point. 9.0 to 1 would be really good for that cam.
If you stay where you are, consider the summit bigger camshaft it's cheap and good for building dynamic compression.
Hope it turns out well for you.
 
Stock late 440 is most likely in the high 7sevens cr wise especially with an aftermarket gasket- if the heads are off use the .028 Mr gasket
no easy way to get 9:1 without a pistons swap
easy to raise top end HP with bigger cams- we did it when running stock classes
problem is the low end goes away and the HP band gets narrower and you have to keep them revved up
not what you want with 3.25 gears and a stock converter and a 3 speed TQ
A Voodoo will work much better than a Comp
I'd use a Jones as he will nail the LCA and exhaust better and the extra $$$ are well worth it for advice\\
The shelf Bullet, Voodoo and Howards all have different LCA's (timing) and you have to know which works better- Engle and Crower also have some good short high lift custom cams
 
My motor home engine I stuck in last summer is real close to your plans.
Mine was a 76 440 low mile, clean inside, good bores & bearings.
I kept the bottom stock as is, lapped the valves and added new seals and a set of crane springs # 99839.
I used a comp cam & lifter kit XE262H , that cam is a bit smaller than the one your looking at as far as lift and duration. New comp chain & gears.
I have a pertronix ignition in a Chrysler dist. eddy performer intake and eddy 750 carb
stock napa fuel pump, try Y headers and full dual exhaust 2 1/2"
Stock 12" convertor that bites at 1,500 / 1,600 rpm , 727 trans and 3:23 sure grip.
Guys on here helped me with some tune issues {Carb & timing } last summer { Thanks again }

Im happy with it, runs way better than the old 383 did, nice smooth idle, and will fry the tires.
My only complaint is comps lifters are noisey, I checked my pre load { stock valve train }thinking I had a lifter problem but all is ok. Lifters are just what they are and I may swap them out next summer and mabey a home head porting job just for kicks on a set of extra heads I have.
Auggie, What your doing is going to run good but me I wanted a little smaller cam, I didn't want it to be dead off idle.
 
Many thanks for your input everyone I have much more to consider now with your information.

RPM Range 1800-5500

Is this 1800 RPM gap a detriment or just a characteristic of a high-performance cams? The vacuum would be OK for power brakes?
 
Last edited:
Auggie56 said:
Many thanks for your input everyone I have much more to consider now with your information.

RPM Range 1800-5500

Is this 1800 RPM gap a detriment or just a characteristic of a high-performance cams? The vacuum would be OK for power brakes?
Click to expand...
Not sure Auggie, Guys on here with way more experience than me will know that.
I was just talking about my own set up. I figure each car/engine is going to preform different even with many of the same parts / specs.
I just wanted error on the small side if I was going to mess up lol, I thought a little to small its still going to run fine.
 
1967coronet said:
My motor home engine I stuck in last summer is real close to your plans.
Mine was a 76 440 low mile, clean inside, good bores & bearings.
I kept the bottom stock as is, lapped the valves and added new seals and a set of crane springs # 99839.
I used a comp cam & lifter kit XE262H , that cam is a bit smaller than the one your looking at as far as lift and duration. New comp chain & gears.
I have a pertronix ignition in a Chrysler dist. eddy performer intake and eddy 750 carb
stock napa fuel pump, try Y headers and full dual exhaust 2 1/2"
Stock 12" convertor that bites at 1,500 / 1,600 rpm , 727 trans and 3:23 sure grip.
Guys on here helped me with some tune issues {Carb & timing } last summer { Thanks again }

Im happy with it, runs way better than the old 383 did, nice smooth idle, and will fry the tires.
My only complaint is comps lifters are noisey, I checked my pre load { stock valve train }thinking I had a lifter problem but all is ok. Lifters are just what they are and I may swap them out next summer and mabey a home head porting job just for kicks on a set of extra heads I have.
Auggie, What your doing is going to run good but me I wanted a little smaller cam, I didn't want it to be dead off idle.
Click to expand...

I have read a lot of comments about the xe cams being a bit noisy, apparently it's the cam grind, not the lifters. I have no personal experience with the xe line of cams.
 
Another option to think about would be to use a set of rhoades lifters and pick a cam to suit. Pick a cam with an older style grind, less noise. Get more lower rpm torque, and keep the power at higher rpms. Also not as much worry about breaking in a new cam with the older grinds. The rhoades are not that noisy with this cam either.
I just installed a summit cam k6401 with a set of rhodes. 16 inches of idle vacume with that cam in my 440 with regular lifters, now I have 22/23 inches of idle vacume. I ran the k6401 in my 440 with a stock converter and it was ok, power was from 3 to 6k, with the rhodes my guess it would be much better. I have a custom converter in my car now anyway but have not had a chance to drive the car yet. I know it idles much cooler now as well. I need to re tune the carb to match the rhoades because it needs much less air and fuel at idle than even the comp 268h I was just running. The comp 268h, was great with the stock converter, but by 5300rpm it was done. It had about 18 inches of vacume at idle. I'll probably have more low end with rhodes lifters and the summit 224 intake*234 exhaust than I had with the comp268h.
I wish I have run the car, i would have more info to tell, but I think it would be fine. I'm running boost too though. The summit came 114lsa will lower your peak torque which is a detrimental with you comp ratio, but it is a wider powerband which suits a your stock converter. The cam still makes power at 6000rpm. I don't think you'll have low rpm detonation issues with the 6401/rhoades cause of your low comp ratio.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-6401

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhl-2018/make/dodge
 
I agree on the recommended RPM range, a cam that doesn't "come in" until 1800 is limiting low end on the street.

I'll also add that I've always believed a "straight pattern" (same lift/duration on both intake and exhaust) works better with headers and a "split pattern" works better with manifolds, as they are usually designed to help the exhaust side.
 
High Energy™ 268H; 1200 - 5200 RPM Range
20-210-2_600.jpg

Product Representation: Actual part may vary based on configuration ordered.
Part: 21-215-4
Price: $154.09
Weight: 10.08 lbs FREE SHIPPING OVER $50!
Quantity:
HYDRAULIC • Great Replacement for 383 Magnum w/ 650-750 CFM Carb, Dual Plane Manifold, etc • Smooth Idle 440 w/ Super Torque

I used this cam in a 440, although with higher compression (10:1) It was a torque monster. I'd think it'd be good for your lower compression 440. It'll fit your RPM range better too.
 
I have used Rhodes lifters a couple of times before. A set of Rhodes lifters with the XE cam can reduce the duration and add a lot of vacuum. According to the Rhodes web site, you can knock of up to 20*’s (depending on which lifter you use)
If you knock off 20 in the suggested cam, it will be close to the stock cam specs. Come around 3,000 rpm, you will feel it pick up in power.

The lifters “tick” at a level that bother some people. I never minded the noise. It doesn’t bother me.
 
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