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70 RR belhousing removal for clutch install ?

Marc

Marc

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Hello,
Probably a dumb question but i am going to ask anyways, I am going to try and install new clutch(first time) with the trans dropped and i removed a cover from the bottom, can i put the new clutch in without removing the bell housing or is this going to create alot of problems?,I would like to not remove starter as it jammed in by the headers and looks like a pain in the ###. Car was a 383 manual car and now has a 440=6, I am not sure if this original bell housing or not, please let me know if you can. the last pic is of bell housingnumbers Thank you in advance for any help.

20190426_103121.jpg 20190426_103226.jpg 20190426_103806.jpg
 
Fran Blacker said:
Did you resurface the flywheel?
Click to expand...
Hi Fran, no I havn't, not sure if i have to remove the bellhousing first or can i remove the clutch with it in, looks like i have room but never having done one not sure how much room i need, btw do i measure the fly flywheel when i order the clutch or do i measure the clutch plate ? Do i have to resurface the fly wheel ? i dont think the rivets hit it dont see metal just trans fluid everywhere sorry I just shecked the link another member sent me, it says i have a 10.5 bell so i assume i order that one ?
 
I know i am asking a lot of question, but i have found out info quickly thanks to the Link sent by NJJR (Thanks) So It says I have a 130 tooth flywheel and a 10.5" bell housing so I am assuming i Buy that size clutch, What has me confused is i read it has a 10.95 " mating surface(fly wheel) not sure if i have to buy a 10.95 clutch.So do /should machine fly wheel or can i just clean it.I guess I am in panic mode this went from a $6.00 dollar input shaft seal to wow i am afraid to guess (wife is going to freak)
 
Marc said:
I know i am asking a lot of question, but i have found out info quickly thanks to the Link sent by NJJR (Thanks) So It says I have a 130 tooth flywheel and a 10.5" bell housing so I am assuming i Buy that size clutch, What has me confused is i read it has a 10.95 " mating surface(fly wheel) not sure if i have to buy a 10.95 clutch.So do /should machine fly wheel or can i just clean it.I guess I am in panic mode this went from a $6.00 dollar input shaft seal to wow i am afraid to guess (wife is going to freak)
Click to expand...
You can call Brewer's. They are very helpful and know exactly what you need.
 
Are you replacing the entire clutch, pressure plate etc., or just the disc because it is saturated in oil. If the flywheel and pressure plate are in good shape, just measure your disc and buy the same size. Then degrease the **** out of everything, and put it back together.
 
Can't you just un-bolt the starter and leave it lay there?
That housing will work for the 10.5" or the 10.95" along with the 130 tooth flywheel. Make sure the pressure plate and bolts for it will accept the 10.95" disc if that is what you buy.

upload_2019-4-26_12-35-45.png

upload_2019-4-26_12-37-3.png
 
Daves69 said:
Can't you just un-bolt the starter and leave it lay there?
That housing will work for the 10.5" or the 10.95" along with the 130 tooth flywheel. Make sure the pressure plate and bolts for it will accept the 10.95" disc if that is what you buy.

View attachment 756109
View attachment 756110
Click to expand...
Thanks so much, that clears up my confusion wit the 10.95" I think i will try the 10.5 , omw to buy a breaker bar and try to pull this clutch and fly out of there, I guess i will try doing all this with belhousing on. appreciated this great info.
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
Are you replacing the entire clutch, pressure plate etc., or just the disc because it is saturated in oil. If the flywheel and pressure plate are in good shape, just measure your disc and buy the same size. Then degrease the **** out of everything, and put it back together.
Click to expand...
I thought ya have to replace the whole thing, All i see online is kits for sale. Was going to replace all because i had a tough time pulling trans and i am sure won't be much fun trying to get it back in. the clutch disk looks pretty worn and when i am at a light there is a rattle until i push on clutch, i heard that that is the throw bearing.
 
The best thing of course is to replace everything, but I just thought I would throw that out there, in case all you did was drive to the dairy queen on sunny weekends.
 
Marc said:
......and when i am at a light there is a rattle until i push on clutch, i heard that that is the throw bearing.
Click to expand...
You might check those bell crank components for wear as well.
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
The best thing of course is to replace everything, but I just thought I would throw that out there, in case all you did was drive to the dairy queen on sunny weekends.
Click to expand...
no havn't done that yet, but i really hammered the crap outa her last summer, First summer with it.guess now i am paying the price. going to try and be nice but soon as the rpms go up i just want more.gonna try and control myself this summer
 
NEVER reuse the pressure plate and not surface the flywheel. Do it correctly the first time, and not on the second time. If your complaining about not wanting to remove the starter (only one bolt & one nut), your gonna be really pissed to have to do the whole job again when the clutch slips. This advise not only comes from a machinist's viewpoint, but a personal point too. Dot it correctly the first time, and you will be much happier.
 
69Bee said:
NEVER reuse the pressure plate and not surface the flywheel. Do it correctly the first time, and not on the second time. If your complaining about not wanting to remove the starter (only one bolt & one nut), your gonna be really pissed to have to do the whole job again when the clutch slips. This advise not only comes from a machinist's viewpoint, but a personal point too. Dot it correctly the first time, and you will be much happier.
Click to expand...
Thanks 69 Bee, I am going to do the fly wheel, The starter does look like a pain because of the headers, Just not sure why it has to come off,it looks like i can take the flywheel out, leave the bell housing on and starter but i haven't got that far yet. You make a great point, guess i will pop the starter out and make sure its ok too.not the time to get lazy i guess. Thanks,
 
Marc said:
Hello,
can i put the new clutch in without removing the bell housing or is this going to create alot of problems?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I did mine without removing the bell housing. It was 15 years ago, so I can't definitely remember.

Anyway, to make life easy, invest into this:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...r-switch/oem-remote-starter-switch/265124_0_0

DISCONNECT THE COIL WIRE FIRST so the engine doesn't start.

Connect the remote across the starter relay.
Number the holes on the flywheel so you can see them with the pressure plate on.
Now you can torque the bolts in a star pattern and not have to get out from under the car.
 
Last edited:
Marc said:
Thanks 69 Bee, I am going to do the fly wheel, The starter does look like a pain because of the headers, Just not sure why it has to come off,it looks like i can take the flywheel out, leave the bell housing on and starter but i haven't got that far yet. You make a great point, guess i will pop the starter out and make sure its ok too.not the time to get lazy i guess. Thanks,
Click to expand...

Disconnect the battery and starter wires, removing the starter attached to the bellhousing might might work.
 
69Bee said:
Disconnect the battery and starter wires, removing the starter attached to the bellhousing might might work.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all your help, I thought about what you said and i removed starter and bell and bar for the clutch! Seems like i have the whole car ripped apart. New clutch is here and flywheel has been machined, Now lets see if i can get it back together. Not sure if i can post this here but when installing the bushing where the trans input shaft sits do i just load that hole with bearing grease ? or do i Juast need a little worried about it running out and dripping, and is it bearing grease i use ? there seems to be an awful lot in the hole behind the fky wheel, guessing its the crank thing. any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
JimCoronette said:
I'm pretty sure I did mine without removing the bell housing. It was 15 years ago, so I can't definitely remember.

Anyway, to make life easy, invest into this:

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...r-switch/oem-remote-starter-switch/265124_0_0

DISCONNECT THE COIL WIRE FIRST so the engine doesn't start.

Connect the remote across the starter relay.
Number the holes on the flywheel so you can see them with the pressure plate on.
Now you can torque the bolts in a star pattern and not have to get out from under the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I ended just taking it apart, I can see now why it will be easier to remove the bell, feel silly for asking, now that it is out, seems so logical now. Again thanks for your help.
 
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