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Gentlemen question on PCV system.

BigFury66 said:
All great info, I would want and need a 800 plus setup for future HP gains. I know with the possible running of NOS the wet setup is the way to go via carb vs dry setups with EFI. I also was planning on running a E85 setup which I only seen via carburation.
Click to expand...
Without asking them, I am absolutely sure that F&B can set you up for E85. My buddy just switched to E85 on his supercharged LS engine, and that's TB/direct port injection. The fuel system controller is not included with the F&B system, so you can get one that does whatever you need, including nitrous and E85. The injectors would be rated for a much higher output than for gasoline obviously.
Website says 3x2 systems from 900 to 2300 CFM!
Indy ModMan w/3x2:
Screenshot_20190809-161448_Chrome.jpg

Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl w/3x2:
Screenshot_20190809-161543_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20190809-162230_Chrome.jpg
 
Omg, those are beautiful! Thanks, I have some thinking and research to do;)
biomedtechguy said:
Without asking them, I am absolutely sure that F&B can set you up for E85. My buddy just switched to E85 on his supercharged LS engine, and that's TB/direct port injection. The fuel system controller is not included with the F&B system, so you can get one that does whatever you need, including nitrous and E85. The injectors would be rated for a much higher output than for gasoline obviously.
Website says 3x2 systems from 900 to 2300 CFM!
Indy ModMan w/3x2:
View attachment 814582
Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl w/3x2:
View attachment 814588
View attachment 814604
Click to expand...
 
Catch cans are also a good idea if needed. But I don't need them on mine. I selected the valve covers I use that had the baffles that I liked to keep the PCV valve from sucking any oil into the intake. I use a stock PCV valve that works very good with my 493 setup and basically run a stock type PCV setup and its worked flawless on my 63 since 2006 when I put it on the road. Never has sucked any oil into my intake and never has any detonation. If I had any problems with a PCV system pulling any oil into the intake then I would add the catch cans to it but no need for them with my setup. The stock PCV valve I use works great for me and is a lot cheaper then the adjustable Wagner one. Since I worked many years at a Dodge dealer I have a good selection of PCV valves. But I would use what works good on your setup so you don't pull any oil into the intake. Make sure you use valve covers with good baffles in them. Ron
 
383man said:
Since I worked many years at a Dodge dealer I have a good selection of PCV valves.
Click to expand...
That really makes a difference. I didn't have any problems with the stock PCV valve and stock valve cover breather. My "journey of discovery" about PCV valves began with the fabricated crinkle black valve covers I have on my 440. I went to the auto parts store and bought a PCV valve "that fit" the grommet. That's when I started having trouble with oil coming out of the breather on the other valve cover.
Once I learned how critical PCV valves are to proper engine function, on the M/E Wagner website and from talking with them, I was sold and wouldn't use anything else!
I do have evac system nipples on my TTi headers, but I am not using them. The point is that proper crankcase evac has always been important to me.
http://mewagner.com/?p=444
 
biomedtechguy said:
That really makes a difference. I didn't have any problems with the stock PCV valve and stock valve cover breather. My "journey of discovery" about PCV valves began with the fabricated crinkle black valve covers I have on my 440. I went to the auto parts store and bought a PCV valve "that fit" the grommet. That's when I started having trouble with oil coming out of the breather on the other valve cover.
Once I learned how critical PCV valves are to proper engine function, on the M/E Wagner website and from talking with them, I was sold and wouldn't use anything else!
I do have evac system nipples on my TTi headers, but I am not using them. The point is that proper crankcase evac has always been important to me.
http://mewagner.com/?p=444
Click to expand...


Yes you are right and I agree. But I know the adjustable valve cost a pretty penny and I will take mine apart and modify the spring and do what I have to too make it work on my setup which I basically did since I wont pay that much for their valve. Its a great valve and more power to all who use it but I live on disability and my budget is tight and I wont pay that much for it. And yes I admit I am cheap but I have to be at this point. LoL. And I know enough about the PCV systems and have enough PCV valve around that I take the time to work with the ones I have and make them work for me. If cash was no problem then I would do the same but I do a lot of working with and fixing parts I have to work since I am on a very limited budget. Heck I am still making doctor payments to a few doctors from when my left knee was replaced in March 2018. But I am very glad it works good for you all that use it and with the cool adjustments on it you can make it work good on just about anything which is good. I honestly wish they would drop the price a bit on it though. Glad its working great for you. Ron
 
Thanks for the Thread.. I see a new Wagner Dual Flow in my Future.. As for EFI, well WORTH it..
agfPtcIcSHIu0arhlwz8JhiTYLn-Tqpn1V50G22OKYb8_yza9PDAA2JewCpW2uttHTvPzqKB6jTQ9GCFmeq4JFzS5FtOk1hMM5yFZjXNccqzouj7RbQDfS3n7pGBCcgRuh4QEv-x6BYVV8HheM1EdcWTUWe-3h9YDeqqW94oMmSdQGaEDhAuyPxzz-vCj38inWvwj3xUhGgBPAjUoMCSh-8E8GZ22Zgx5PC5bc0hErUrxnHJ6Smu8eMwPkV0-epjaLyzcKPydOQisxHrR8xKJvJ_CBSI59g-HY75mO42f8wRytq49FF-SdkdvEPoqyRZLXPESxWmIgrlx7Tg4WB8PoIdqnBQdLfkeuEl5i_sA8Kaho2cgMbkIcc3kL799wzfpvzA5IPvSMxuBMtK7WdgcfPXJq86JspgClwK3olA2RHRqSdcMFAIGUV7A7ELhy69YXvL1Xsf1KXM1JKdm_oogGzlutYrcJFMV6wp_KfaodixYFPWoRp-pgLloqWXtHN56K2mJvdFyr_YBnRfin4pc846weKMDhKTTIxlmxK1Ks2ZpNZFSVF6qlXmHE6C-st_QfxejQQwUthIsTtU-E96DNuNrhAVSgyHrG4E0RVKTzZ2z-1ko_7iM5ehxXUMMgSxRuoEsWJOA-cRsWy3Cn_PkzyVT1ZcBDw99-QGQQPKytdEs1TNGw=w1920-h934-no
 
Derwud said:
Thanks for the Thread.. I see a new Wagner Dual Flow in my Future
Click to expand...
Since this is coming up again, I still am 100% M/E Wagner's greatest fan.
BUT
I still have the PCV valve on the 440 in "fixed orifice" mode, which is maximum suck...I have to see if I can get the M/E Wagner PCV valve to fit another grommet tighter than the one I have, because I am getting some oil dribbling out of my foam insert in the breather, and that has been a big reason why I got the M/E Wagner PCV valve in the first place. I don't think I have any other vacuum leaks, and the PCV valve isn't "loose" but it's not as tight as I think it should be. It still has prevented the previous problem that showed up when I first installed the fabricated valve covers and got a PCV valve "that fit" giving no thought to whether or not it was the right one for my engine. Oil was really coming out of the breather after highway miles or 1320 blasts. Just because it fits doesn't mean it works properly, unless it is tunable like mine is.
I also have the M/E Wagner in "fixed orifice mode" in the Pontiac 421, which was rebuilt about 2 or 3 years ago. Definitely zero oil coming from the breather on the 421, so once I get the 3 Rochester 2bbl carbs back from being modified to match the high performance rebuild we did, before I make any final tuning adjustments to the carbs, I will tune the PCV valve first.
If I get the 440 PCV valve snugged up, and I don't have any other vacuum leaks, and I still get oil dribbling from the breather, well I guess that would point to worn rings and blow by, pressurizing the crankcase beyond what even the :lowdown:M/E Wagner PCV valve can handle, and that means getting serious about the stroker build.
 
Try the external breather catch can.Then if you are blowing oil out it could be the location of the breather in the valve cover .
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
Try the external breather catch can.Then if you are blowing oil out it could be the location of the breather in the valve cover .
Click to expand...
Thanks HEMI-ITIS, and I am sure a catch can would help,
BUT
the valve cover breather has a baffle under the breather, and unless I have a vacuum leak (which would cause other problems too) then I'm concerned that worn rings are causing the crankcase to be pressurized.
I'm open to an education about this though. I NEVER had a problem before I changed out the valve covers and the associated PCV hardware, and the M/E Wagner PCV valve helped, a LOT. So I am going to start with making sure that PCV valve has a nice, tight, leak free grommet to sit in, and then go from there.
 
If you to a catch can there would a breather on top of the can with a petcock drain.
Also if you think there is excessive blowby,do a leakdown & compression test.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
if you think there is excessive blowby,do a leakdown & compression test.
Click to expand...
I bought a compression test kit a couple of years ago for the Pontiac 421, but it was rebuilt soon thereafter, so I never used it, but I still have it.
Thanks
 
biomedtechguy said:
I bought a compression test kit a couple of years ago for the Pontiac 421, but it was rebuilt soon thereafter, so I never used it, but I still have it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Maybe this is a good time to try it out! Make sure the piston is at TDC or the air pressure will spin the crank some.........
 
Bio; Al's talking about doing a leakdown test (need a leakdown tester, different from a compression tester)and having each cylinder on TDC while you test it. Easiest way is to put a timing tape on your balancer, with TDC on the tape aligned with the timing mark on the balancer.
*Pull all the spark plugs.
*Hook up a remote starter switch to your starter relay.
*Put your finger over the #1 plug hole in the head.
*KEY OFF, tap motor over until compression tries to push your finger off the hole. STOP.
*With a 1 1/4" socket, a short extension and a breaker bar, rotate the engine a little further clockwise until TDC on the tape is once again aligned with your TIMING TAB '0'. STOP You are now on #1 cylinder, compression stroke. Both valves will be closed and you can pressurize the cylinder with air. Follow the directions that came with the tester. This test will let you know if you have a significant leak past the rings, intake valve or exhaust valve.
* You then rotate the engine clockwise with your bar until the first 90* line aligns with the '0' mark on the tab and repeat your test. Keep rotating 90* at a time until all cylinders are tested. Compare your results with the info in the tool directions.
For using your compression tester, of course, you don't need to do any of this, other than pull the plugs and block the throttle open. Again, follow the directions that come with the tool. The compression test should be done first. I only do a leakdown test on a street motor if there is a problem with the compression numbers...
 
coloradodave said:
Bio; Al's talking about doing a leakdown test (need a leakdown tester, different from a compression tester)and having each cylinder on TDC while you test it. Easiest way is to put a timing tape on your balancer, with TDC on the tape aligned with the timing mark on the balancer.
*Pull all the spark plugs.
*Hook up a remote starter switch to your starter relay.
*Put your finger over the #1 plug hole in the head.
*KEY OFF, tap motor over until compression tries to push your finger off the hole. STOP.
*With a 1 1/4" socket, a short extension and a breaker bar, rotate the engine a little further clockwise until TDC on the tape is once again aligned with your TIMING TAB '0'. STOP You are now on #1 cylinder, compression stroke. Both valves will be closed and you can pressurize the cylinder with air. Follow the directions that came with the tester. This test will let you know if you have a significant leak past the rings, intake valve or exhaust valve.
* You then rotate the engine clockwise with your bar until the first 90* line aligns with the '0' mark on the tab and repeat your test. Keep rotating 90* at a time until all cylinders are tested. Compare your results with the info in the tool directions.
For using your compression tester, of course, you don't need to do any of this, other than pull the plugs and block the throttle open. Again, follow the directions that come with the tool. The compression test should be done first. I only do a leakdown test on a street motor if there is a problem with the compression numbers...
Click to expand...
That is the information I needed.
It's been so long since I looked at the kit, I don't remember if it's compression or leak down, but I believe it's leak down. Maybe it can do both.
THANK YOU very much for the information!
I'll check back in once I see what I have and have a chance to do something with it.
Money/Time but never both simultaneously it seems...
 
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