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Synthetic Oil

Dreamcatcher said:
Yes you did and that was not even the question. But hey its all good.
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Sorry I didn't respond you your original question. I recommend synthetic oil in roller cam engines, and Joe Gibbs Driven (or another High Zinc Oil) in flat tappet cam engines. If you don't use a zinc oil in a flat tappet cam engine, it is not a question of "If" your cam might go bad, but rather "When".
 
69Bee said:
All flat tappet cams need either a zinc oil, or at least a zinc additive. Your last sentence shows how little of a grasp on how important zinc is in a flat tappet cam engine.
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After a lot more reading, a lot of oils turn up worse for protection if a zinc additive is added on. Personally going crazy with all the info!
 
oldbee said:
After a lot more reading, a lot of oils turn up worse for protection if a zinc additive is added on. Personally going crazy with all the info!
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Zinc no zinc synthetic or regular oil. Talk to 10people get 12different answers.
 
For the 20 years I was in the Army fixing helicopters all we ever used was synthetic. That's going back over 30 years now when I started. Need that dependibility. Can park on a cloud when you crap an engine or gearbox.
 
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Many synthetics aren't really synthetic.
Was in Wally's last week. No shortage of dino oils.
As for Gibbs oil they make some good stuff but don't use it in a car running E85 or E100.
They are not compatible.
 
I was in a local chain Home/Hardware Store, Valu Home Center, over the weekend. They had gallons of an off-brand conventional on sale for $11.49. I run whatever is cheap in my 4.0L Jeep, as it just sees local driving, and not any real highway miles...
 
VANDAN said:
I was in a local chain Home/Hardware Store, Valu Home Center, over the weekend. They had gallons of an off-brand conventional on sale for $11.49. I run whatever is cheap in my 4.0L Jeep, as it just sees local driving, and not any real highway miles...
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You've been fortunate. It's usually the other way around. Stop and go driving short distances is harder on oil than highway driving.
 
Slap Stick said:
Many synthetics aren't really synthetic.
Was in Wally's last week. No shortage of dino oils.
As for Gibbs oil they make some good stuff but don't use it in a car running E85 or E100.
They are not compatible.
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True. Amsoil a true synthetic. Most start with Dino and the process qualifies it as synthetic - but it’s not.
 
I second the Amsoil being a true synthetic.
I use their Z Rod oil. It has the most Zinc in it.
upload_2019-11-11_14-27-38.png
upload_2019-11-11_14-27-38.png
 
Sahara said:
Synthetic rammed down our throats? Yeah, it’s a conspiracy of the oil companies to sell us more, ummm, oil.
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Or possibly a conspiracy to sell us what they want us to buy and at an inflated price lol Not really what the post was about but hey what ever works. LOL
 
We don't have any problem getting dino oils here

I use Royal Purple synthetic 10/40 (or I org. started with 10/30)
in my 99 Dakota SLT 4x4 5.2ltr roller motor/bunch of bolt-ons
it's got almost 60k on it, so far so good

I have Chrysler specific, Redline ATF synthetic
(I have a ton of it on the shelf, another former oil sponsor)
in both my RR's & truck trans
great stuff, no foaming, not stink, keeps cool, last forever seemingly etc.

I use TR-1R Torco Racing semi-synthetic
(Blended/Refined multiple times Dino based)
in my RR & other Race/hot rod engines, for probably 30 years now
some seriously slippery stuff
get it on a tool & you can't hardly hold onto it
never lost an engine because of oil,
tear downs always looked great too

I was turned on to it by a very trusted racing buddy,
that does engine destruction testing (oils too)
all the hype around many synthetics or dino oils, is all wrong

I use to use Amsoil years ago,
when it was given/sponsored to me

I use what works, that's proven, none of them are cheap ****
& in the 'proper viscosity' for the climate/style of engine/build
I don't care about price (for the most part) or BS advertising hype
most of the rest is marketing gimmicks/plows
 
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I guess if it is a which oil do you use thread I like Rotella 15-40 in 2500 ram diesel 168000 strong and in our work horse 3500 ram dully diesel. 250000 and counting and never used with out towing a big load. Mobile 5000 in the cars. And to really get this into a street fight LOL Fram filters in every thing for the past 46 years...Hahhah....
 
Amsoil a real PAO. All others start in the ground. Amsoil starts in a Lab.
 
Dennis H said:
Amsoil a real PAO. All others start in the ground. Amsoil starts in a Lab.
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That is NOT true.
Amsoil is NOT the only true synthetic.
Sounds like some corporate hype.
Do the research. There are many Group IV and Group V oils out there.
Red Line, Royal Purple, Penn Grade, Gibbs and others.
 
Vague: unclear. Mobil 1, the only competition dropped out too, now starting with Dino oil.
 
Then that would mean it went from dino to synthetic and back to dino.
 
69Bee said:
All flat tappet cams need either a zinc oil, or at least a zinc additive. Your last sentence shows how little of a grasp on how important zinc is in a flat tappet cam engine.
Click to expand...

Maybe this is why I've NEVER EVER had a problem with any motor after throwing in a can of STP oil with every oil change!
 
Dreamcatcher said:
Or possibly a conspiracy to sell us what they want us to buy and at an inflated price lol Not really what the post was about but hey what ever works. LOL
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Dreamer if you get ahold of a amsoil dealer in your area ask him to sample your oil that you use and an a amsoil sample. Look at the break down. I think you will be surprised also don't know how many real miles you drive but remember that all dino oil add the additive package and after a thousand miles it start to break down. Compare again with oil samples and see that the syn oil is still way ahead. Amsoil also has some great grease that holds up to anything. Repac you wheel bearings and drive it use your day take a temp I guarantee the temp is lower than any grease you are using. Just a thought and good luck which ever way you go.
 
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