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Mopar radiator re-core advice

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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I bought a used C body radiator for my car but it’s plugged and overheats quick. Tubes seen through the outlet are calcified closed.

what should I ask for at the radiator shop? Recore it back to stock or other?

still trying to cool my 440
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If your local shop can’t fix it check with Glen-ray Radiators.
The local shop does nothing but radiators. Testing and $395 for a re-core.
 
The coming of the universal aluminum radiator, which a lot of hot rodders run now, hasn’t helped either.
 
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Ask if they have a better cooling core, I know glen-ray will do either.
 
Suggest you also check to ensure that you have the right fan on the car, and the right thermostat unless you're the original owner and you know these are correct.

I'm the 4th owner of my 1970, 440/6 Cuda and I too was experiencing overheating issues. My problems were a partially clogged [original] radiator and a previous owner who had installed a 5 blade fan on the car. The original fan is 7 blades....

I picked up a nice, OEM fan from Stephans Performance and sent my original radiator to Glen-Ray for re-coring. This combo solved my overheating issues. :thumbsup:
 
Is there a down side to getting the max cooling option? My 440 isn’t a monster probably 400 ish hp but I’ve had 210 temps on the highway with fans on and a new champion 3 row radiator. If you search “440 thermostat” you’ll see that thread. I don’t know how to link it.
 
No downside, the the tubes are shaped a little different, so the core looks different, so if you are into 100 point show judging maybe it is an issue. I can only tell you the glen-ray radiators come back heavy, like the originalas in weight, when I had them recored local they were not, so I think they are thicker cores. Not cheap but the only guy I use now. See what your guy can get, then decide. I have never seen a glen-ray not solve a heating problem, he usually sends your radiator back no charge until you install and are happy.
 
If you are running only electric fansvthat could be a problem.
 
If you are running only electric fansvthat could be a problem.
If this new radiator doesn’t fix it I’m going back to mechanical fan (and hot idle). Ugh
 
An original clutch fan, with a working thermal clutch, and a good radiator should never see 200 at idle.
 
I would think this would have been mentioned before. If the block has not been throughly flushed recently, expect overheating. Haven’t kept up, if it was mentioned, my apologies.
The rad shop I use said flush the system about every year, depending on location, mileage, temperature range.
I imagine there will be some robust replies.
 
I flushed my block and heads before replacing all the frost plugs in 2016. First time it's been flushed since engine rebuild in 1978. Radiator stock 2 row, fresh core, 053 x 22". 7 blade fan, no shroud and a 190F thermostat. Right where the temp runs.
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This is what your up against,if you have installed that rad n run it on your car the rust n calicum build up is through the whole system.You will need a complete flush witch the rad shop should do,n than have them either flush it if its in good condition or recore it.Thats a damn good price for a recore,n when you install it put the blade fan back on n the proper shroud n it will be better than new
 
save yourself a lot of money if that rad shop is good,if you have the proper mopar tanks they will clean them up to looking like new so the solder will stick n than paint it with a special rad paint n it will look like stock,rad paint is rad paint n solder is solder.
 
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