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Brake light switch adjustment

VitaminCRR

VitaminCRR

Well-Known Member
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Des Moines, IA
All right, here it goes. I've tried searching and can't find an answer to this question. I put new brakes on my 69 Roadrunner and after I did the pedal doesn't return all the way and the brake lights are occasionally staying on. It's the brake light switch and I'd love to adjust it but I can't figure out how to get a socket or a wrench on the bolt that holds the switch bracket tight. Any quick and easy tips to get this adjusted?
 
They don’t make it easy it is right above the column. 1/4” drive with a wobbly socket from the center of car towards outside.

Or lower the steering column down and then it’s easy to get to the bolt.
 
Last edited:
If pedal doesn't return all the way there could be a problem there!?
 
Longknife said:
If pedal doesn't return all the way there could be a problem there!?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's another issue. I put a new Dr. Diff master cylinder on along with the new brakes. I'm having trouble getting the brakes bled correctly, apparently. I was hoping that when that was done and they weren't spongey any more that the pedal would come back up. Till then, I'm just trying to get the lights to turn off.
 
you might have to get an adjustable master rod.
 
VitaminCRR said:
Yeah, that's another issue. I put a new Dr. Diff master cylinder on along with the new brakes. I'm having trouble getting the brakes bled correctly, apparently. I was hoping that when that was done and they weren't spongey any more that the pedal would come back up. Till then, I'm just trying to get the lights to turn off.
Click to expand...
I have the 15/16" manual front disc rear drum Dr Diff master cylinder. Stock rod. Mine will bleed n get firm but I had same issue w brake light. I used a small adjustable jaw wrench and adjusted it to the metal the switch is in then bent it down slightly so my switch is now depressed. My issue now, n I hope you don't end up with it, is the master cylinder does not hold residual pressure and over a week or so of driving, brakes get spongy n have to be bled again.
 
diesel_lv said:
My issue now, n I hope you don't end up with it, is the master cylinder does not hold residual pressure and over a week or so of driving, brakes get spongy n have to be bled again.
Click to expand...
Man, I hope I get to the point that I have firm brakes. But I don't look forward to having to bleed them every other week or so. It is such a PITA. How many times did you have to bleed them to get them firmed up? Or, is there a trick to doing it?
 
VitaminCRR said:
Man, I hope I get to the point that I have firm brakes. But I don't look forward to having to bleed them every other week or so. It is such a PITA. How many times did you have to bleed them to get them firmed up? Or, is there a trick to doing it?
Click to expand...
I used a vacuum bleeder that is attached to my air compressor. Major PITA!! DR Diff says I need to buy a residual pressure valve and install it inline. He sent me an email w details. That also is a PITA. Not real happy there is no mention of this on his website nor offering of one on his website.
 
@diesel_lv I tried that tip on the brake light switch. Magical! It took me longer to get the vice-grip out of the tool box than it did to fix it. Thanks!
 
Here's another question for you. Is it possible to still have air in the master cylinder after I've bled the brakes multiple times? I did bench bleed the MC before I put it on but I didn't see a lot of bubbles come out when I did it so I'm not sure I did it right. Thoughts?
 
Okay 66 satellite here ssbc disc conversion kit for the front that the previous owner didn't quite finish I went with a doctor diff 15/16 manual Master also I have the adjustable brake push rod and still had to add a spring to my return and I still have a somewhat spongy brake pedal and I'm sure they're still air trapped in the back somewhere but I'm just getting used to pumping them when I'm driving it honestly it's been a long time I I'm sick of working on it it's a tough project when somebody else puts a aftermarket disc brake kit on a car lots of options on this site but I just put a return spring on my pedal for the brake light and I pump them and they work oh, certainly I'll keep revisiting the issue too , it's a giant p i t a
 
So I'm gonna answer my own question. Yes, you can still have air in the master cylinder after bleeding brakes multiple times. I bled the MC yesterday and got a few little bubbles out. But that is all that it took to firm up my brakes. I get pedal at about half way to floor and it doesn't go down from there. Yay! Firm brakes! We'll see what happens after driving for a week or so. But I'm happy now.
 
VitaminCRR said:
So I'm gonna answer my own question. Yes, you can still have air in the master cylinder after bleeding brakes multiple times. I bled the MC yesterday and got a few little bubbles out. But that is all that it took to firm up my brakes. I get pedal at about half way to floor and it doesn't go down from there. Yay! Firm brakes! We'll see what happens after driving for a week or so. But I'm happy now.
Click to expand...
Let me know. I just started get firm pedal, squishy pedal, firm pedal, grabbing right rotor while driving pedal. It's all over the place.
 
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