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Exhaust manifold removal

1967 satellite

1967 satellite

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Hi everyone;
I posted about this problem before and still have not resolved it. I have a 1967 Plymouth Satellite with a 383. They have the HP exhaust manifolds on them. I am trying to remove them because the left side has a blown gasket. I have removed all the hex nuts but the one in the far back does not have the extended hex nut. There is a bolt or a hex nut in the hole of the manifold. We used a borescope to look in the hole and it really looks like a bolt. There are markings on the head. We have tried grinding down sockets to fit in the hole hoping to grab the nut/bolt but no luck. It looks like the hex part of the item is touching the inside wall of the manifold. We tried moving the manifold around hoping the socket would grab and still nothing. We even cut about 1/4" off the side of the socket hoping we could grab the nut, and the cut side would allow the socket to attach itself. Nothing. We also said let's remove the head and then we could get to it better. Nope, the head bolds are covered by the manifold. We really don't want to pull the motor. I was thinking, when you look inside the manifold where the exhaust flange bolts to the manifold, there is a tube in there were the bolt/stud goes through to attach to the head. What if I cut that tube? Do you think I could get the manifold off? I know the manifold will have to be replaced but that's the only thing we can think of at this point. This has been one frustrating job. On my last Plymouth I had the manifolds off in about an hour. They had the extended nuts on them. Any help would be appreciated. Never been so frustrated on working on a car that should have been a simple job in all my life! Manifold # is 3751068-20
 
with all the other bolts/nuts off,do you have Any wiggle room at all?
theres 2 ways to do this.
if any space,sawzall the bolt right between the head and manifold,aim for as flat as you can,if you cant then aim for the manifold.

if no space,fire up the torches!!
torch the head of the bolt off,using a screwdriver to move the slag out and work the manifold back Off the bolt remains
and then once the manifold pops off,Immediately grab whats left of the bolt/stud/whatever is in there and unscrew it while its still hot.
think Visegrips and Gloves.

i would Not destroy the manifold if it was mine,that number comes up as 69 up hp manifolds which arent cheap.
 
I think he is fighting the area where there's supposed to be a stud and extended nut (on either side of the down pipe). Therefore, since it's got a bolt, or an incorrect nut on the original stud, he hasn't got access to cut or torch it off.
Op, you have got to i.d. whether you have a bolt ,a stud and nut, a bolt with a smaller head, or whatever it is. And then, what SIZE it is. It had to have been installed, so there must be a way to UNinstall it.
 
33 IMP said:
I think he is fighting the area where there's supposed to be a stud and extended nut (on either side of the down pipe). Therefore, since it's got a bolt, or an incorrect nut on the original stud, he hasn't got access to cut or torch it off.
Op, you have got to i.d. whether you have a bolt ,a stud and nut, a bolt with a smaller head, or whatever it is. And then, what SIZE it is. It had to have been installed, so there must be a way to UNinstall it.
Click to expand...
Pics from his original thread and original thread...

Post in thread 'Exhaust Manifold removal' Exhaust Manifold removal
 
My question would be, if it is a bolt in there, how did someone tighten it down?
 
BeatersRus said:
with all the other bolts/nuts off,do you have Any wiggle room at all?
theres 2 ways to do this.
if any space,sawzall the bolt right between the head and manifold,aim for as flat as you can,if you cant then aim for the manifold.

if no space,fire up the torches!!
torch the head of the bolt off,using a screwdriver to move the slag out and work the manifold back Off the bolt remains
and then once the manifold pops off,Immediately grab whats left of the bolt/stud/whatever is in there and unscrew it while its still hot.
think Visegrips and Gloves.

i would Not destroy the manifold if it was mine,that number comes up as 69 up hp manifolds which arent cheap.
Click to expand...
there seems to be a little room between the head and manifold but I'm worried that I might cut the head. As far as torches, there is absolutely no room. I can barely get my hand in there to get to the hole. I may pull the steering column as the hole is in line with the steering column with about 3" space between them. If the engine was out then a torch would work.
 
khryslerkid said:
Which stud is it, 2nd from the front ect?

The way I'm looking at it is if you can't get to it with a 90 deg drill or torch I'd plan on lifting the engine up enough where you can get to it.
Click to expand...
It's the left (drivers side) last one in the back. No room for a drill or torch.
 
33 IMP said:
I think he is fighting the area where there's supposed to be a stud and extended nut (on either side of the down pipe). Therefore, since it's got a bolt, or an incorrect nut on the original stud, he hasn't got access to cut or torch it off.
Op, you have got to i.d. whether you have a bolt ,a stud and nut, a bolt with a smaller head, or whatever it is. And then, what SIZE it is. It had to have been installed, so there must be a way to UNinstall it.
Click to expand...
You would think, if it got installed it has to come off. This has the 3 of us baffled and we are Mopar guys with many years of experience and never came across a situation like this.
 
1967 satellite said:
there seems to be a little room between the head and manifold but I'm worried that I might cut the head. As far as torches, there is absolutely no room. I can barely get my hand in there to get to the hole. I may pull the steering column as the hole is in line with the steering column with about 3" space between them. If the engine was out then a torch would work.
Click to expand...
pull the column and still use the torch.
id pull the hood off too so you have room to angle.
sounds like the easiest way out at this point,way easier than pulling the motor.

the trick to these is to heat them for Awhile,cherry red plus,then finally hit the oxy/blow the top off the bolt,that way the whole bolt head goes at once and you arent digging around like indiana jones.
wouldnt hurt to use a long flathead or prybar to help work the manifold off the bolt too.
 
That's what I would do. You're just spinning your wheels trying to get ahold of something that's almost impossible. Burn it out with a torch. Wrap everything with wet blankets.
 
BeatersRus said:
i had no idea this was a year long ordeal,pretty sure it would take me 2 days max for me to solve that scooby doo mystery ;)
Click to expand...
Yes. this has been kicking around for a while, but having knee surgery put this off for many months. I was still driving the car, but that ticking sound drove me crazy and finally I said enough was enough. And here I am. More frustrated now than ever.
 
Sacrifice the manifold. It is a 73-74 HP manifold, you can buy one fairly cheap.
 
R413 said:
Sacrifice the manifold. It is a 73-74 HP manifold, you can buy one fairly cheap.
Click to expand...
so far that is the plan. Were going to try to cut it from the opening where the flange bolts to the manifold. There is a tube where the extended hex nut goes through the manifold. Hopefully if we cut there the manifold will come off.
 
1967 satellite said:
Yes. this has been kicking around for a while, but having knee surgery put this off for many months. I was still driving the car, but that ticking sound drove me crazy and finally I said enough was enough. And here I am. More frustrated now than ever.
Click to expand...
the torch is the answer obiwan,doesnt matter if the engine was in or out of the car,torch is what its gonna take.
last year was no joy for me either,finally getting back up to speed myself.
Best Wishes.

ps...that hole,is exactly like taking lug nuts off a vehicle with alum wheels.
it absolutely can be done,ive done it for years but its tricky and i wouldnt want to do many now because my hands are so shaky.

you want to keep the flame high and the oxy as low as Possible,but because its a giant hole,you Will need more oxy.
theres gonna be a fine line between it Working>> the flames going in there,everythings heating up /
and it shutting itself off/not enough Buenos~

by this i mean adjusting your oxy/propane/acet knobs.

its Possible if you had a thin tube of steel around that fits the inside diameter almost snug,
that you could heat that stud/head/bolt whatever it is,and then Hammer the tube on the end to Seat it onto and around that nut and it Might be warm enough to where it just breaks loose and comes out.
but thats a huge if compared to the just melt it out route and it sure doesnt sound like you have swinging room anyways.
 
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