Exhaust manifold removal

1967 satellite · Friday at 7:49 PM

33 IMP said:
Yank the engine.

so far this is the plan before we pull the motor. Were going to try to cut it inside from the opening where the flange bolts to the manifold. There is a tube where the extended hex nut goes through the manifold. Hopefully if we cut there the manifold will come off.

dvw · Friday at 8:11 PM

Find somebody with good torch skills. They will get it off. I know I coud.
Doug

1967 satellite · Friday at 8:13 PM

dvw said:
Find somebody with good torch skills. They will get it off. I know I coud.
Doug

going to make a few calls tomorrow and see what I could find.

MWbirdLOVER70 · Friday at 8:36 PM

Hate to be that guy but could’ve pulled motor by now and fixed it and checked for other things while out

R413 · Friday at 8:38 PM

You will have the remove the bolt head. Anything outboard of the bolt head is not holding the manifold to the engine.

WileE · Friday at 11:04 PM

So, I'm not exactly sure where you're at on this, but what about drilling through the manifold from the top where the bolt is ? Manfold is sacrificed, of course.

Mr. Mike · Saturday at 10:56 AM

Bite the bullet and pull the motor.
Check bellhousing freeze plugs, rear main seal, oil pan gaskets, motor mounts.
Also consider opening the block drain plugs to get rid of accumulated water jacket gunk.

Billccm · Saturday at 11:20 AM

Did you try the suggestion to grind down a rocket socket? I don't recall if this was an option you looked at previously.
Sorry this has drug on, but I think you have to bite the bullet and remove the motor.

hemifiedbird · Sunday at 12:00 AM

If you have access to a stick welder, Get a piece of black pipe from the hardware store that fits in the hole up to the head of the bolt. Make sure it is long enough to extend past the manifold where you can get a vice grip or pipe wrench on it. Put a welding rod down the middle of the pipe to the head of the bolt. Leave cables disconnected as you won't get the rod down to the bolt without sparking. Hold the pipe tight to bolt. Hook up your positive to the rod and apply pressure to the head of the bolt. Hook up the ground to the pipe and weld the pipe to the head of the bolt. Let it cool and spin it out.

Don Frelier · Sunday at 7:15 AM

hemifiedbird said:
If you have access to a stick welder, Get a piece of black pipe from the hardware store that fits in the hole up to the head of the bolt. Make sure it is long enough to extend past the manifold where you can get a vice grip or pipe wrench on it. Put a welding rod down the middle of the pipe to the head of the bolt. Leave cables disconnected as you won't get the rod down to the bolt without sparking. Hold the pipe tight to bolt. Hook up your positive to the rod and apply pressure to the head of the bolt. Hook up the ground to the pipe and weld the pipe to the head of the bolt. Let it cool and spin it out.

That's a good idea :thumbsup:

Cliff Ramsdell · Sunday at 7:57 AM

To me, looking at the old photos it appears that the fastener is a header bolt and not a nut on the stud. This could explain how it was done to start with. 1/4” drive socket and extension, grind it down to fit.

I also second pulling the column out, pretty easy task that clears up a bit of space.

Cliff Ramsdell

dadsbee · Sunday at 9:04 AM

Don Frelier said:
That's a good idea

Which was also offered a year ago and ignored..

hemifiedbird · Sunday at 11:49 AM

dadsbee said:
Which was also offered a year ago and ignored..Didn’t see that post

nitro_rat · Sunday at 11:54 AM

Just stick the tip of the torch in the hole, let it heat for a few seconds and then bury the oxygen lever. Blow the damn thing out of there. The manifold and the head have enough thermal mass that you can liquefy that bolt without damaging anything else. I used to own a muffler shop and I would fix stuff like this all the time. An old timer showed me how when I was just a kid. It's only scary the first time you do it. After that it's easy!

1967 satellite · Monday at 12:07 PM

**********MAJOR UPDATE**********
AFTER GOING THROUGH ALL THE MESSAGES AND LOOKING AT THE SITUATION AGAIN, I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR ON A FRIENDS LIFT. CLIFF RAMSDELL SAID IT LOOKED LIKE A HEADER BOLT. WITH A MIRROR AND FLASHLIGHT, WE WERE ABLE TO SEE IN THE HOLE MORE CLEARLY. AND IT WAS A HEADER BOLT. 3/8" - 1/4 DRIVE SOCKET DID THE TRICK. ALL ALONG WE BELIVED IT WAS A 9/16" NUT ON THE STUD OR A CAPSCREW.
I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR TAKING THE TIME AND GIVING ME SUGGESTIONS. THIS IS A GREAT SITE.
ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU EVERYONE.

Don Frelier · Monday at 12:36 PM

1967 satellite said:
**********MAJOR UPDATE**********
AFTER GOING THROUGH ALL THE MESSAGES AND LOOKING AT THE SITUATION AGAIN, I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR ON A FRIENDS LIFT. CLIFF RAMSDELL SAID IT LOOKED LIKE A HEADER BOLT. WITH A MIRROR AND FLASHLIGHT, WE WERE ABLE TO SEE IN THE HOLE MORE CLEARLY. AND IT WAS A HEADER BOLT. 3/8" - 1/4 DRIVE SOCKET DID THE TRICK. ALL ALONG WE BELIVED IT WAS A 9/16" NUT ON THE STUD OR A CAPSCREW.
I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR TAKING THE TIME AND GIVING ME SUGGESTIONS. THIS IS A GREAT SITE.
ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU EVERYONE.

I hope you replaced it with a stud and a tube nut?

khryslerkid · Monday at 1:05 PM

hunt2elk · Monday at 1:55 PM

khryslerkid said:
View attachment 1873978

Yes, and it only took a year, lol.

WileE · Monday at 2:50 PM

1967 satellite · Monday at 4:30 PM

Don Frelier said:
I hope you replaced it with a stud and a tube nut?

absolutely. I have a set on order.

Exhaust manifold removal

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