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46RE Direct Clutch Clearance?? Tight or loose?

HAHNAGON

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I'm rebuilding a 46re for my hemi swap and I'm ready to put the direct clutch back in but I'm a little stuck on what the clearance should be. The mopar virtual classroom training module says the direct clutch clearance should be between .095"-.165". A little loose but it is important, especially if you have a shift kit or increased line pressure. It claims that anything tighter than .095 will cause shift bind up. I did do a trans go shift kit. I have tried 2 different sets of frictions and steels. Both sets give me around .060"-.070" clearance. I read somewhere else that .060 is good? I have worked on the 904 and 727 but this is my first 46RE. Does anyone with experience have an opinion on this? Any other recommendations or modifications to make while I still have this thing mostly apart are welcome as well. Thank you.
 
Crap. Apparently I'm closer to .035 at the moment. Taking out one friction and one steel is too much, and seems crazy because I'm left with just 2 clutches then. It looks like I could use these smooth frictions, instead of the waffle style?? Smooth are .064" or 1.62mm thick and waffles are .084" or 2.14mm thick. Are smooth frictions an option or bad idea? When are smooth frictions used over waffle? If anyone knows an expert on this, please forward them this post. I'd greatly appreciate it.

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I'm rebuilding a 46re for my hemi swap and I'm ready to put the direct clutch back in but I'm a little stuck on what the clearance should be. The mopar virtual classroom training module says the direct clutch clearance should be between .095"-.165". A little loose but it is important, especially if you have a shift kit or increased line pressure. It claims that anything tighter than .095 will cause shift bind up. I did do a trans go shift kit. I have tried 2 different sets of frictions and steels. Both sets give me around .060"-.070" clearance. I read somewhere else that .060 is good? I have worked on the 904 and 727 but this is my first 46RE. Does anyone with experience have an opinion on this? Any other recommendations or modifications to make while I still have this thing mostly apart are welcome as well. Thank you.
Call Transgo for their recommendations.
Mike
 
Did u check the clearance b4 u took the clutches out? Are u sure the steels are in place properly? I shoot for .015 for a stock rebuild and .020 for a performance rebuild. Usually the waffles I get are .072 thick. The smooth approx .062. I use the flat smooth when I want to add more clutches. How thick are the steels? Did u check the clearance dry or did u soak the clutches in atf? How thick is the snap ring? Kim
 
Did u check the clearance b4 u took the clutches out? Are u sure the steels are in place properly? I shoot for .015 for a stock rebuild and .020 for a performance rebuild. Usually the waffles I get are .072 thick. The smooth approx .062. I use the flat smooth when I want to add more clutches. How thick are the steels? Did u check the clearance dry or did u soak the clutches in atf? How thick is the snap ring? Kim
Might be a good idea to clarify that is per clutch... So 6 discs = .090-.120


To tight will definitely cause what in the past was called "Shift Overlap" which is much more self explanatory than "Shift Bind-up"

There are varying thickness frictions and steels.... Go visit a local trans shop, most are willing to help... Or call one of the shops who support FBBO...
 
Might be a good idea to clarify that is per clutch... So 6 discs = .090-.120


To tight will definitely cause what in the past was called "Shift Overlap" which is much more self explanatory than "Shift Bind-up"

There are varying thickness frictions and steels.... Go visit a local trans shop, most are willing to help... Or call one of the shops who support FBBO...
This is how I do them. YRMV
 
I run .015" per friction for the front clutch (3rd/rev) in the hot rod stuff. are you running 4 friction? How did it go from .060" to .035"? Use .025-.040" total clearance (4 friction) in the rear clutch. The front clutch can use the thin frictions. But in a stock build this shouldn't be necesary. Clearance should be able to be adjusted with select fit snap rings. Usually it ends up being towards the loose side of the spec, not to tight. I'm assuming you are using factory thickness steels?
Doug
 
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