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1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

Here you go.

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that wheel well opening looks wacked at this angle.....I know that's not the case but at first glance. What did you do behind the patch you just made with the other weak or rusty metal?

It’s not. Still working on it. It’s metal behind the patch. Rust is gone.
 
Looks like someone is going to get a good work out with a hammer and dolly while testing their ability to shrink metal in between. Good thing it’s in the fenders instead of a door or other place to have easy access to both side
 
Looks like someone is going to get a good work out with a hammer and dolly while testing their ability to shrink metal in between. Good thing it’s in the fenders instead of a door or other place to have easy access to both side
Nope. Spread in skim coats hard and firm to get into the sand scratches for proper mechanical adhesion.
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Responding to this post as it has the pictures but I must be missing something. Looks like the fender has a black spray bomb guide coat sprayed on it and someone drug a block accross it. It looks like the light colored spotches are high spots and there looks to be low spots in other places. Maybe I’m wrong but it does look like it has light scratches in the black that is showing the differences in height, either high or low spots. If I’m correct (which I’m very possibly not) I would spend numerous hours trying to metal finish it before spreading any filler. The idea is to not use any filler, the next best idea is to use very minimal depending on how far you want to go. Any filler is a potential failure spot. Like I said, I’m just looking at photos so I could be totally wrong.
 
Responding to this post as it has the pictures but I must be missing something. Looks like the fender has a black spray bomb guide coat sprayed on it and someone drug a block accross it. It looks like the light colored spotches are high spots and there looks to be low spots in other places. Maybe I’m wrong but it does look like it has light scratches in the black that is showing the differences in height, either high or low spots. If I’m correct (which I’m very possibly not) I would spend numerous hours trying to metal finish it before spreading any filler. The idea is to not use any filler, the next best idea is to use very minimal depending on how far you want to go. Any filler is a potential failure spot. Like I said, I’m just looking at photos so I could be totally wrong.
The black is epoxy. The scratches were purposely put there before filler. The small dents that look like an angry exwife took a ball peen hammer to it are real.
 
The black is epoxy. The scratches were purposely put there before filler. The small dents that look like an angry exwife took a ball peen hammer to it are real.
That’s what I was referring to when I said someone has a lot of hammer and dollying to do. Any place the expoxy is removed is high, any place it’s still dark
after it was “scratched” sanded would be low, especially if a block or paint paddle was used providing a flat/semi flat sanding surface. Most if not all of those high/lows could probably be solved without filler depending on time or patience. As far as your going on this, the less filler the better. Just my opinion and by no means trying to throw shade nor am I there to help or even touch and feel what it’s really like
 
That’s what I was referring to when I said someone has a lot of hammer and dollying to do. Any place the expoxy is removed is high, any place it’s still dark
after it was “scratched” sanded would be low, especially if a block or paint paddle was used providing a flat/semi flat sanding surface. Most if not all of those high/lows could probably be solved without filler depending on time or patience. As far as your going on this, the less filler the better. Just my opinion and by no means trying to throw shade nor am I there to help or even touch and feel what it’s really like
I appreciate your input. Keep it coming. I also trust the guy completely that is doing the restoration. Trust me, if he thought the metal could be straightened anymore or there was a better way to do it, he would be doing it. Just follow along and you will see. My car is the only car he is doing. He has been working on it for over 8 months now continually. He has over 1000 hours into it. He has been treating it like his own, and I’ve seen his collection of cars. He does awesome work. So I trust him completely.
 
I appreciate your input. Keep it coming. I also trust the guy completely that is doing the restoration. Trust me, if he thought the metal could be straightened anymore or there was a better way to do it, he would be doing it. Just follow along and you will see. My car is the only car he is doing. He has been working on it for over 8 months now continually. He has over 1000 hours into it. He has been treating it like his own, and I’ve seen his collection of cars. He does awesome work. So I trust him completely.
All good, it’s your car and you’re the only one that has to be happy with it. I wish I had pictures of some of the things I or my guys have straightened or done. I had this just to give a little credibility to my opinion, I don’t want to
come accross as a know it all with no real world knowledge, I’m definitely not that. I’ve been around broken cars for a long time.

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All good, it’s your car and you’re the only one that has to be happy with it. I wish I had pictures of some of the things I or my guys have straightened or done. I had this just to give a little credibility to my opinion, I don’t want to
come accross as a know it all with no real world knowledge, I’m definitely not that. I’ve been around broken cars for a long time.

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No worries. That looks a lot like the kind of shop my 280zx with a salvage title was built. Had that car in 1985 time frame. 2 totaled zx’s put together.
 
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