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Yep the good Mopar Performance orange boxes are just a memory now, just like the rev n nator and the MP chrome box. Sorry state of affairs really. I have an old chrome box as backup for my rev n nator they are both awesome 6000+ but the rev n nator has the built in rev limiter so I run it most...
There is also the option of hooker headers, I've used a set of 1 7/8" ceramic coated comps for years with several different B/RB motors. Needed massaging with raised block and trick flow heads near the passenger torsion bar, but otherwise they are good quality and acceptable fit. The coating...
Do you have to have 2 1/8" headers? 1 7/8" with a 3" collector will give good performance and any modern OE (Dakota) or aftermarket starter (powermaster) will easily fit. I wouldn't even consider going back to manifolds.
Thanks Mike, that Bing search is pretty good for parts shopping much better than Google in this case. It got me to the NOS parts for the bulkhead and then I could search using that info. I found the reproduction I was looking for from Roseville moparts:
Black Engine Wiring Terminal 1967-74...
I'm looking to repair my 3 speed wiper motor, it's a core that had the bulkhead connector cut off and looks like hell but is otherwise salvageable. I would rather fix it than send off for restoration at this time.
I see kits for Packard 56 online but they don't detail the specific connectors...
Some cheap ECU's I've used like the grey ones would break up over 4000 rpm they were complete junk. I've had an orange box fail on me while driving, but there are several versions of the "orange box". Mine was a parts house generic. Mopar performance chrome ECU I have had for almost 10 years...
Agreed, horsepower claims are not likely but the rev limiter is useful. I run vacuum advance with a firecore distributor and it performs really well. All in all I like the ECU, about the same as a chrome box with an adjustable rev limiter.
I'll be happy to buy that rev n nator from you send a PM, wouldn't mind having a spare. Ive been using one off and on since 2016 with a blaster II or revnnator coil. it runs great on a 499. Chrome box is my backup ECU.
That milodon hemi replacement pan is nice, trade ground clearance for one quart of oil. Even with kickouts the 7 qt pan will scrape on the street occasionally so its a risk.
Like dragon said battery appears ok. Might check for voltage drop at various points relative to battery negative, 12.5v on charge seems low. As long as you have a mechanical gauge I wouldn't worry about the stock oil sender at this point. Good luck with troubleshooting.
JG71B, put a meter on it when running, should be charging around 14 volts with good VR. Then shut off and measure what the voltage is on the battery terminals after sitting for a while. Post your readings.
I haven't seen that, mine will sit at 0 after start up unless it hasn't been on the tender for a while. As long as the charging voltage is correct with a multimeter I wouldn't be concerned. My 800cca battery is 11 years old now and acts like brand new...the secret is to put it on a battery...
I agree with dadsbee. I still have trouble with my rally oil gauge but also suspect the cheap sending unit I got "new". IVR corrected the fuel and temp accurately but oil pressure comes and goes. Haven't done anything further to diagnose as the electric is just to have a working gauge on the...
Milodon is best, the deep pan with kickouts is solid I run that on the street. Frank must have hit the milodon very hard in one spot to get it to dent that badly mine just has a few scratches from the road. The road race pan looks good though with the added ground clearance I would consider it...
I just noticed my heater control light bar is always lit with key off, battery connected, headlights off causing battery drain. What could cause this? Can someone post a screenshot of what this circuit is on the electrical schematic for 1970 B? Thanks!
Ok after a whole holiday season plus futzing with this problem, I finally found the source.
***Drum roll*** Classic Industries dash limiter
I thought it just wasn't allowing the gauges to read correctly (i.e. protecting the gauge from 12V but reads too low). So I kept it on the car.
I finally...