1962 ..what color primer was used ?

[rustytoolss]

Might not be important..does anyone know what color primer was used back in 62 ? Doing a color change from Ermine White to Luminous Cordovan ( Burgundy-marron metallic). I know some people use different color primers for different body paint colors.

 

[Gus chiggins]

Might not be important..does anyone know what color primer was used back in 62 ? Doing a color change from Ermine White to Luminous Cordovan ( Burgandy-marron metallic). I know some people use different color primers for different body paint colors.

Somebody else can add info, but I don't think it matters as long as you use a quality primer, some people stick with the same products from primer to final topcoat for pretty much great results. I would use some type of epoxy/urethane primer, and not go with lacquer based primers because of their porosity, ever see a car with a primer coat on it for too long? Rust never sleeps.

 

[autoxcuda]

I've seen a lot of 66-71 Mopars with Red primer. Not sure if the factory used different colored primer for different cars.

My 66 Satellite survivor is gold and has red primer for the exterior paint. Car seems to be showing that the red primer got some overspray into wheel wells and side facing surfaces.

You can see were the factory missed the exterior color at the bottom of the drivers quarter panel here:

 

[33 IMP]

I have an originally white 62, had a light/medium gray primer.
I think I would use a red primer under your burgundy paint... but that's just me, and I'm no painter.
Edit: come to think of it, I found gray primer under the medium blue dodge door I put on my Plymouth, too.

 

[Lefty71]

I've never sanded thru to metal on an original early 60's Mopar and commited the colors I'm seeing to memory. My white '64 had a greenish primer on the underside, which I always assumed was a "dip"..... No clue what was done on upper body, but may see soon.....

Found this blurb vin a Motor-Trend article talking about the early "A"s..............



"Another innovation that debuted on the Valiant before it went company wide: multi-step dip-and-spray primer/rust preventive coatings that went on before paint".

 

[Builderguy]

Just speaking from the paint perspective not on what was actually used in 1962.

If my final paint is going to be a light color, I use a light primer (white or light grey) and if the final is dark, then a black or dark grey primer. This is with BC/CC and it just means that I have to use less paint to get the finish color I want.

Now if you you are painting a candy, all of this goes out the window.

FWIW, I put a sealer on before BC so everything is a nice uniform color. But again, I try to keep the sealer color close to the final paint.

So with your Burgundy paint I would go black or dark grey with the primer/surfacer/sealer. IMHO

 

[VANDAN]

Let your Painter pick it, so it Reacts Properly, with the Finished Product. I don't see Any primer, on my Hot Rods...

 

[Gus chiggins]

I've never sanded thru to metal on an original early 60's Mopar and commited the colors I'm seeing to memory. My white '64 had a greenish primer on the underside, which I always assumed was a "dip"..... No clue what was done on upper body, but may see soon.....

Found this blurb vin a Motor-Trend article talking about the early "A"s..............
Was that green color primer zinc chromate?


"Another innovation that debuted on the Valiant before it went company wide: multi-step dip-and-spray primer/rust preventive coatings that went on before paint".

 

[Builderguy]

Let your Painter pick it, so it Reacts Properly, with the Finished Product. I don't see Any primer, on my Hot Rods...

That is a pretty broad brush you are using Sir.

Are you saying you don't use any: 1- Epoxy Primer, 2-Self-Etching Primer, 3-Contour Polyester Primer- Surfacer, 4- DTM primer, or 4- 2K Urethane Primer?

No primer at all!

I don't think that is the way you meant it but it was still pretty funny.

Rustytoolss, as Vandan posted, I would let your painter use his/her preferred product so if there is any problem it is all on him/her.


FWIW: I stick with one manufacture's primer/surfacer/sealer/Base and Clear for the entire project (no matter what some salesman says is compatible). Too much time and money to risk on a bad reaction.

 

[VANDAN]

That is a pretty broad brush you are using Sir.

Are you saying you don't use any: 1- Epoxy Primer, 2-Self-Etching Primer, 3-Contour Polyester Primer- Surfacer, 4- DTM primer, or 4- 2K Urethane Primer?

No primer at all!

I don't think that is not the way you meant it but it was still pretty funny.

Rustytoolss, as Vandan posted, I would let your painter use his/her preferred product so if there is any problem it is all on him/her.


FWIW: I stick with one manufacture's primer/surfacer/sealer/Base and Clear for the entire project (no matter what some salesman says is compatible). Too much time and money to risk on a bad reaction.

No. What I am saying is "Let your Painter Choose the Primer, that He Knows Will work with the Finish being Applied". With the Current Inflated Prices, the Paint is an Investment itself. No Room for Errors...

 

[MoparLeo]

Quote from Fm3 Dart:

"When Chrysler built the cars, the fenders, doors, hood and trunklid were all installed while the car was a bare metal assembly, then the car was painted.
Here's how they did it:
the bare metal unibody itself was all welded together.
The roof, rocker and cowl seams were filled with lead and metal finished.
A worker brushed the green zinc primer on the upper cowl sides, kick panel area, door hinge areas, hood hinge areas, and along the inner apron surfaces. Then the doors, fenders, hood and trunklid were bolted on and adjusted.
Then the bare metal car went into the cleaning, acid bath, rinsing process, followed by baking dry.
The car was then dipped in latex primer {usually dark grey}, up to about the level of the heater hose holes in the firewall.
This was washed off of the outer surfaces. { this is what fills the ribs of the floors with bubbly porous junk}
Then the car was sprayed with red epoxy primer, and then green-grey epoxy primer.
This was wet sanded after baking, then the car was painted with 2 coats of acrylic enamel and baked.
This is skipping a few steps, but that's the basic system Chrysler used.
The reason the zinc primer was brush painted in the cowl area etc was because the car was not dipped deep enough in the primer vat to reach those areas, so the brushed on primer was an attempt at rust prevention.
This brushed on primer caused lots of ugly drips in th engine bay, easily seen along the where fender bolts on. This is especially obvious on A bodies, E bodies and 71-72 B bodies because they have a horizontal bolt surface, and the dude who brushed on the green primer just let it slop down the inner aprons."