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1964 Plymouth Sport Fury Driveshaft questions

cbatherton

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I have a 1964 Plymouth Sport Fury that i am redoing. I have done a lot of work to the car and just finished a doing a disc brake conversion and replaced the third member. I was going to buy a new driveshaft, but it is so different, and I cannot find anything available for this car. is there a way to get rid of the CV type joint at the transmission and do a normal slip yoke or is there somewhere I can buy a new driveshaft for the car. I have a police interceptor 440 in the car but it is still the original 727 trans. Any help with this would be wonderful. I am new to the group and look forward to getting to know yall.
 
You can take apart the trans and replace the output shaft/housing with a slip yoke type... I need to do this myself, just waiting to find a cheap *** 727 laying around :) I will probably stay with the ball and trunion til it breaks though.. they supposedly work very well.
 
With a original 64 727 you can have a driveline shop convert a driveshaft with a slip joint.
Had this done to my 64. Also did a 63 Valiant 904 .

IMG_1391.jpg
 
With a original 64 727 you can have a driveline shop convert a driveshaft with a slip joint.
Had this done to my 64

View attachment 1414040

I hadn't even considered that... on mine i want to change the input shaft/support so i can use a newer converter anyway so... God this car is a giant can of worms :)
 
They have worked for years. Unless something is wrong with the joint, why replace it with something different? I thought rebuild kits for the B&T joints were still available??
 
They have worked for years. Unless something is wrong with the joint, why replace it with something different? I thought rebuild kits for the B&T joints were still available??

Mine looks ok from what i can see.. and rebuild kits are available (although the rubber boot is an issue.. one guy sells ones that are supposedly perfect) I worry less about the B&T than about the keys in my tapered axles :)
 
Mine looks ok from what i can see.. and rebuild kits are available (although the rubber boot is an issue.. one guy sells ones that are supposedly perfect) I worry less about the B&T than about the keys in my tapered axles :)
What is the worry about the keys in the tapered axles? They worked for many years, including racing max wedges pretty good. How many incidents have you read about them ever failing??
 
What is the worry about the keys in the tapered axles? They worked for many years, including racing max wedges pretty good. How many incidents have you read about them ever failing??
I have read about zero.. but i also had no idea they existed til i got my car bout 8 months ago :) It just seems launching with a 1/4" key taking all the power would be a recipe for breakage.. BUT i over-think and worry bout everything i shouldn't :) I'm pretty sure i will have to change the axles if i ever find a sure-grip pig anyway.. but for now 1 leg 2.76:1 baby!
 
In case the OP decides to keep the B&T setup.. here is a good rebuild video.. pretty simple stuffs
 
You can take apart the trans and replace the output shaft/housing with a slip yoke type... I need to do this myself, just waiting to find a cheap *** 727 laying around :) I will probably stay with the ball and trunion til it breaks though.. they supposedly work very well.
Thank you so much for responding. I couldn't find much information about the ball and trunion online, so I wasn't sure how strong they were. If it can hold together with the motor i will probably leave it. I did install a posi and different gear in the car along with a new torque converter with a higher stall. The 440 is mostly stock still I put a mother thumper cam kit in it though. I'm not looking for major speed just to sound good pulling into cruse ins and having fun with the car.
 
Thank you so much for responding. I couldn't find much information about the ball and trunion online, so I wasn't sure how strong they were. If it can hold together with the motor i will probably leave it. I did install a posi and different gear in the car along with a new torque converter with a higher stall. The 440 is mostly stock still I put a mother thumper cam kit in it though. I'm not looking for major speed just to sound good pulling into cruse ins and having fun with the car.
So.. Brewers sells just the boot (hoping that's all mine needs) it's pricey but at least it exists :) A full rebuild kit is $137... still cheaper and easier than redoing the trans just for the u-joint.
 
Anything or place to get the rebuild kit?
Brewers sells em.. or Ebay... I just did a bunch of reading and the main thing is Don't overgrease it... that will blow the boot out.. :)

P.S. i plan to take mine apart before i buy anything, i know my boot is shot but if the pin/balls/bearings are fine they will go right back in.. 100k miles and still worked when parked, i like using parts that are known good.
 
Brewers sells em.. or Ebay... I just did a bunch of reading and the main thing is Don't overgrease it... that will blow the boot out.. :)

P.S. i plan to take mine apart before i buy anything, i know my boot is shot but if the pin/balls/bearings are fine they will go right back in.. 100k miles and still worked when parked, i like using parts that are known good.
Yeah my car only has 60,000 miles on it so i will probably jst order the kit and rebuild it
 
Use a 1965 Big Block 727. Although the '65's no longer used push buttons, they were still cable shifted. The bonus is that they changed the tail shaft and housing for a modern slip joint. They are a straight bolt in conversion, if you use your existing push button cables. Since these are a one-year-only transmission, they are getting hard to find. 1965 Chrysler is a good donor, because they always have Big Block 727. Even if you can only find a Small Block 727, found on 318 Poly's in '65 Dodge and '65 Plymouth, you can swap all the rear slip joint stuff for the trunion joint parts on your '64 trans. The transmission has to come all apart for this, so it would be a good opportunity for a rebuild, or upgrades. A 1965 Belvedere drive shaft would be a straight swap for your '64 piece. I have done this conversion myself, and I know it works.
 
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