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1967 coronet pro touring

Here are some more progress photos. Wiring in progress, got one door closing now. Battery rolocated, most the sound deadener in. Valve cover remote breather installed.

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Hit a milestone last night. Short of some touch up on a few pieces that need a second coat of clear I finished painting my trim. This is a big deal because now I can start reassembling the windows and door tracks. Spring is almost here in Texas depending on the day of the week you might say its already here.

This is more for my benefit. Things to do/buy list. No particular order.

1. buy headliner
2. buy front door panels
3. buy/fab bucket seat brackets
4. Fab dash insert, install/wire aftermarket gauges
5. polish windows and assemble trim
6.Install window trim, vent windows and track
7. Install passenger door handle.
8. Install carpet and pad
9 install headliner and interior trim.
10. remove steering column and weld studs for upper bracket, repaint then reinstall
11. Complete wiring, fan controller, ignition. troubleshoot horn and flashers.

Future
1. Tremec install
2. Fab rear divider and storage bins.
3. Stereo system
4. aftermarket AC install
5. Hyroboost
6. rear 4 link?
7. Fab console or retrofit Jaguar XJS console.
 
which tremec and which vendor are you sourcing it from?

i’d like to toss in a borgeson unit and a tremec magnum at some point.

my 66 has a 440 n 727 with stock power steering. the steering box sprung a leak in a few spots. thats on the project list.
 
which tremec and which vendor are you sourcing it from?

i’d like to toss in a borgeson unit and a tremec magnum at some point.

my 66 has a 440 n 727 with stock power steering. the steering box sprung a leak in a few spots. thats on the project list.


I havent decided yet for sure. probably close ratio 5 speed due to less cutting. Unfortunately it will probably be a couple of yrs out so who knows what else will hit the market by then.
 
The search is over! I finally found a decent passenger side grille surround for my car. Hopefully we have a typical Texas winter this year and I can get the the surrounds and the few other pieces of trim painted this season and get this car back on the road this spring. Other Updates:

Decided to go with an 833 since I got a good deal on a clean unit out of a 67 Belve, finished installing the tunnel a few weeks back. Probably doesn't need it but going to throw a set of seals and bearings in it before install. Ordered the American power train hydraulic conversion kit last week.

Fab'ed up some seat brackets but need to make some adjustments before final fitment.

Made a mounting bracket for my 6AL and dakota fan controller that mounts behind the glove box.

Finished the carbon fiber overlay and round gauge conversion on my dash cluster. Its been a pain doing final assembly lining up the intellitronix digital gauge board on the back side of the new cluster windows.

Finished installation of sound deadner pads on the passenger and roof of the car so now i can get the headliner in.

Its been slow going lately as I went back to school and that is consuming most of my time as of late.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention. Got a killer deal on a aeromotive A1000 20 gal fuel cell and pump at auction. This will be part of phase 2 when i save up to do my MPFI conversion.
 
Rebuilt the trans over the holidays and got her installed. I start the rear end rebuild tomorrow. Picked up some 355 gears and a trutrac.

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spc upper control arm
SPC UCAs are the only non-QA1 part that I bought for my 70 Roadrunner. QA1 K-member, strut rods, LCAs, sway bar. Tie rods are factory. Factory manual steering box.
I am going to ask for clarity, your advice:
Before installing let the adjusters out on both front and back where there is about 3/4 inch of thread showing otherwise you end up with the a boat load of Negative Camber.
should also apply to my setup?
For a variety of reasons, I am going to have all of my new parts installed by a shop that I have had do a lot of work on my wife's GTO and they also replaced the ring and pinion (3.54 to new 4.10) in my Roadrunner's Dana 60. They specialize in 4wd suspension systems, but they have done all kinds of work on classic muscle cars.
Thanks for your help and I await your reply.
Your project is coming along nicely.
 
Ordered the American power train hydraulic conversion kit last week.
My 70 Roadrunner came with the 18 spline 833 (V-code 440+6)
That is my backup transmission as I have the outstanding Passon Performance a855 installed. That OD 5th gear is why I went from 3.54s to 4.10s. Dropped 750 RPMs (2,750) at 75 MPH in 5th with the 4.10 compared to 3,500 in 4th with the 3.54s! My car is a cruiser and an occasional Test and Tune 1320 track car. Track performance is my goal, along with having a blast on the street.
Anyway, I have considered going to a hydraulic clutch actuator and I would like to know more about the American Powertrain kit you mentioned. My pressure plate is pretty brutal on my old left knee, but it has over 3k pounds of clamping pressure, and I am also going to try a Clutch Tamer kit for better launches where traction has been a real problem.
 
I use the American Powertrain hydraulic clutch behind my 470 and it’s awesome! Although mine is a 23 spline, the clutch is their Slayer, lots of clamping force.
 
My 70 Roadrunner came with the 18 spline 833 (V-code 440+6)
That is my backup transmission as I have the outstanding Passon Performance a855 installed. That OD 5th gear is why I went from 3.54s to 4.10s. Dropped 750 RPMs (2,750) at 75 MPH in 5th with the 4.10 compared to 3,500 in 4th with the 3.54s! My car is a cruiser and an occasional Test and Tune 1320 track car. Track performance is my goal, along with having a blast on the street.
Anyway, I have considered going to a hydraulic clutch actuator and I would like to know more about the American Powertrain kit you mentioned. My pressure plate is pretty brutal on my old left knee, but it has over 3k pounds of clamping pressure, and I am also going to try a Clutch Tamer kit for better launches where traction has been a real problem.


First im Jealous of your A855. I just finished the install but have not driven it yet. The install wasnt too bad and depending on your bellhousing you may be able to install the new bearing without completely removing the trans. I have a lakewood bellhousing and the hole for the boot is large enough to install the bearing through. the biggest issue is the master install. I had to fab a small plate to reinforce the factory clutch rod location and you will have to drill a hole behind your current clutch rod actuator on the pedal for the new heim joint. I had a new set of pedals since I was swapping from an auto. The pedals are very hard steel so you may be best removing the assembly but it may be possible to modify them still in the car.
 
Some pics of hyperco composite leafs mounted on my car. Also installed new trutrac center section with 355s and a panhard bar.

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Looking good, still blocking mine..are you going to Pate again next month? Well be in the same place if you get a chance to stop by!
 
Looking good, still blocking mine..are you going to Pate again next month? Well be in the same place if you get a chance to stop by!

I was looking the other day for info on it. The website was down. I will probably go again if I can get a spot.
 
I was looking the other day for info on it. The website was down. I will probably go again if I can get a spot.
Last weekend in April.... I imagine you can still get a spot...might be at the bottom of the hill though..
 
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