1968 Charger, Ray Barton 528 Hemi, Pro-touring.

Resto-Mods & Pro-Touring forum

  1. Jarven1977

    Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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    Sure will! We have two more Chargers in the family that I can do messurements and compare with.
    Does anyone know if the axle should be almost a 3/4 of an inch more towards the rear on the driver side normally when measuring from the wheel openings and comparing sides?
     
  2. biomedtechguy

    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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  3. Jarven1977

    Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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    Just by looking at this picture I feel that my wheel is too far back. Just doesn't look right. Or is it just me?

    IMG_20210507_065100.jpg
     
  4. Purepony

    Purepony Well-Known Member

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    Funny I used the same size as the gold charger on my wheels and they look good

    you have what seems like a shorter tire ?
     
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    • Jarven1977

      Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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      In that picture it's shorter. I have taller tires now. 295/35r20. If you look at the rim instead I think it's quite obvious that it's to far towards the rear. Could be my eyes fooling me but I don't think so.
       
    • ckessel

      ckessel Well-Known Member

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      This is referred to as "thrust angle" on the alignment rack. For sure, make the a high priority measurement that they check. If its a little off, Hotchkis makes shims to slip between the hanger and the unibody. In consideration to where you are and the mad skills you've been showing, you can make your own. If there is a massive difference between the right and left, look for structure issues[ frame rack time or worse] or a bent diff housing. Whoever does the alignment needs to hang the targets on ALL four wheels, not just the front. You need to make sure the front and back jive together so you don't get the "dogtracking". As I've stated in other threads, don't let them get away with the old "set the toe and let it go" alignments. Expect to pay for several hours worth of time/labor to get everything squared away on your settings.
       
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      • Jarven1977

        Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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        Shortened the steering shaft to fit the Borgeson power steering box and coupler. Drilled a 5mm hole and drove a spring pin into it. All bolted in and fits really good. The steering wheel was way to far out so i modified the adapter, again.. shortened it as much as I could and now the steering wheel has the exact same measurement as the original one measured from the dash. But now it's too tight fit for the horn button. I guess I need to make a ring in the lathe to move it further out to make space.
        Made a first trial on a shifter to suit the opening in the modern Challenger center console. I think it'll work after some more trial and error.

        Man.. all these details take time! Hours and hours..

        IMG_20210508_171459.jpg IMG_20210508_181819.jpg
         
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        • Jarven1977

          Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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          Plugging away on the wiring. Finished the headlight loom with relays.

          IMG_20210509_122240.jpg IMG_20210509_122249.jpg
           
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          • Jarven1977

            Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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            Hmmm..

            IMG_20210513_173935.jpg
             
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            • watermelon

              watermelon Well-Known Member

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              nitrous button or line-lock button?


              watermelon
               
            • biomedtechguy

              biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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              :popcorn2::popcorn2:
              I'm trying to catch up by going back through the thread and I found this:
              I got the RXT "1,000 horsepower" disc on McLeod's recommendation. Although the future stroker motor is not going to have 1K HP, I'm using a HitMaster launch control, and the organic material on the RST dual disc would not hold up to the heat and friction of the launch control, at least that was the concern. The RXT is ceramic metallic. I've put over 500 street miles on it since and it's not difficult to live with.
              Also, I'm using an American Powertrain hydraulic TO bearing conversion kit.
              What McLeod dual disc and Hydraulic TO bearing are YOU using?
               
            • Jarven1977

              Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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              Unfortunately I never got to install the dual disc! It didn't fit my flywheel so I ended up with another setup for the time being.. The other one I had on the shelf was a RAM powergrip with a single kevlar disc. It might work but we'll see.. if not I need to order a new mcleod rst dual disc.
               
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              • Jarven1977

                Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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                Line lock.
                I'll cut a slot for the wires and seal it up with epoxy.

                IMG_20210514_152735.jpg IMG_20210514_153700.jpg IMG_20210514_174927.jpg IMG_20210514_201933.jpg
                 
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                • Fran Blacker

                  Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  • biomedtechguy

                    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                    My flywheel on my 440 6bbl is the 130 tooth, and the "weird" diameter (10½" or is it 11"?) I know the PP has to be "scalloped" for the disc to fit.
                    It all seems strange to me. Why a 440 would use the same flywheel as a 318.
                    With the 6 bolt crank, is there a way to go to a 143 tooth flywheel? Is that one larger diameter?
                    I need a lesson on 6 vs 8 bolt cranks, flywheel tooth count, diameter, what is best for performance, compatibility with the widest range of aftermarket parts, absolute compatibility with, for example, what McLeod offers in the RXT series (I know what I have is compatible) and so on...
                     
                  • HawkRod

                    HawkRod Formerly hsorman FBBO Gold Member

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                    • Jarven1977

                      Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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                      Well, I had to. If I want to use the Challenger console I need to get the shifter in the exact location. And while I'm at it, why not add a nice touch to it, the Line lock should be easy to access if I want to use it.
                       
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                      • Jarven1977

                        Jarven1977 Well-Known Member

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                        I have working clutch and stick shifter! But I need to clean this pig! Not my proudest work but I can probably smooth things out to make it look decent. It Will be covered by the console and the boot but still... Drilled and tapped the shifter through the holder mechanism. I wanted to remove all the play I could and it worked out really good when bolted down. It's like night and day compared.

                        Any good ideas on how to smooth out the roof liner? Hanged it up and inserted all the bars for now. Hang it outside in the sun?

                        IMG_20210518_203641.jpg IMG_20210518_203838.jpg IMG_20210518_204009.jpg IMG_20210518_204213.jpg IMG_20210518_211114.jpg
                         
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                        • 747mopar

                          747mopar FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          The gold one looks like it has a bigger diameter tire that fills the opening.

                          On the shifter.. pfff, it's just metal. Fill everything with enough weld and you can grind it to look like a gem lol. Good luck
                           
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                          • HawkRod

                            HawkRod Formerly hsorman FBBO Gold Member

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                            Exactly. Some heat from the sun and hanging or laying flat will help get rid of the fold lines. Ideally do this for a week or two.

                            I'm sure you could speed it up with a hair dryer, but I just laid mine on the roof of the car for a couple of weeks. A hair dryer could likely mess it up if you heat too much.

                            Good Luck!
                             
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