1969 road runner electrical - Starting New Thread - $100 Reward offered

[paladin06]

All,

The main thread is here. I have been chasing this fault for two very long weeks. It's hot (100+degrees in the garage) and I'm tired and damn near broke my budget.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...490-HELP!!!!!Repeat-voltage-regulator-failure

I will pay $100 to the person who helps me resolve this issue. If two people provide the same fix, I will pay the person who provides the answer first based on your response time stamp. Payment will be made by Paypal or check to your home.

Please be specific if you have questions. Details are important.


Thanks to all those that have provided assistance thus far. I know when can get this done.

Thanks all.

 

[67 coronet]

i read through the thread.you said the amp meter is bypassed.are you still getting power to the main battery connection at the alt?should be full voltage with key on,even if not running.just checking to make sure bypass at dash was done correctly.

 

[Bee383]

i have a 69 bee i had a similar problem with.i replaced everything you have and still had the same issues.my problem turned out to be a voltage drop on the blue run wire from the ignition to the vr.what voltage do you have on that side of vr with the key on?

 

[paladin06]

Yes, getting 12.14 volts.

i read through the thread.you said the amp meter is bypassed.are you still getting power to the main battery connection at the alt?should be full voltage with key on,even if not running.just checking to make sure bypass at dash was done correctly.

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It reads 11.1 at the firewall, 10.9 at the ballast resistor and 10.9 volts. at the VR. Hummmmm

i have a 69 bee i had a similar problem with.i replaced everything you have and still had the same issues.my problem turned out to be a voltage drop on the blue run wire from the ignition to the vr.what voltage do you have on that side of vr with the key on?

 

[paladin06]

Review my 69 wiring diagram I show one FLD post on the alternator. My alternator has two post and one post has a brown wire. No idea where that brown wire goes.

I disconnected the other (brown wire field connection) at the alternator and no change. I also disconnected both field wires to do the full field test and it shows 12.12 volts at the battery post on the alternator. This is a new alternator. Gezzzzz

 

[The Beep]

Review my 69 wiring diagram I show one FLD post on the alternator. My alternator has two post and one post has a brown wire. No idea where that brown wire goes.

I disconnected the other (brown wire field connection) at the alternator and no change. I also disconnected both field wires to do the full field test and it shows 12.12 volts at the battery post on the alternator. This is a new alternator. Gezzzzz

It sounds like you have the original 69 wiring. If so you should have a mechanical voltage regulator (black about 2 inches square) with 2 leads, ign and fld. If so you have the wrong alternator. Yours is a 70's electronic. Simplest fix is to get a 68-69 alternator.

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Any chance you could post pics of your regulator, alternator and wiring? Sounds like its mismatched.

 

[paladin06]

Sure will do right now. I was also just told that one of the field terminals is hot and the other is not. he hot one is where I should contact the green RV wire.

It sounds like you have the original 69 wiring. If so you should have a mechanical voltage regulator (black about 2 inches square) with 2 leads, ign and fld. If so you have the wrong alternator. Yours is a 70's electronic. Simplest fix is to get a 68-69 alternator.

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Any chance you could post pics of your regulator, alternator and wiring? Sounds like its mismatched.

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[Bee383]

If you have a dual field alternator just run a jumper wire from either field to a ground.

 

[paladin06]

Yep, called the store and they verified I have the alt for a 70 to 72 road runner. So will have to replace my VR ....again??

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One is hot and one is not. Does it matter which one?

If you have a dual field alternator just run a jumper wire from either field to a ground.

 

[The Beep]

Yep, called the store and they verified I have the open for a 70 to 72 road runner. So will have to replace my VR ....again??

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One is hot and one is not. Does it matter which one?

Thats a 69 style mechanical regulator and a 70s electronic alternator. Thats a problem. Regulator may still be ok and it should not matter which field wire at alternator you ground.

 

[Bee383]

I had the same exact set up and worked fine with one field grounded until I upgraded to the later vr and harness

 

[The Beep]

to clarify only ground the unused field terminal on the alternator.

 

[paladin06]

Really!!! Damn.. And no problem with the alternator. OK there was a brown wire hooked to the upper field connector. I disconnected it and it seemed to make no difference.

Thats a 69 style mechanical regulator and a 70s electronic alternator. Thats a problem. Regulator may still be ok and it should not matter which field wire at alternator you ground.

 

[scotts74birds]

The schematic shows the alternator itself as grounded through the block. Did we also ensure there is a good engine-to-chassis, and battery-to-chassis ground connection? I hate to sound like a broken record because I've said it so many times here. But DC is a different animal than a/c. "If it don't work, check power. If it works weird, check grounds." When someone says "the lights dim, of flicker when I do this", it makes me wonder. The alternator charges the battery. Duh. But the battery also provides a "smoothing-effect" to the system voltage. This can also be called "float". This battery "float" insulates the accessories from the on/off nature of the voltage regulator. Without it, everything would slow (fans) or dim (lights), or speed-up and brighten as the alternator cycles. It is possible for a battery to be internally-shorted by a collision of the plates inside, or build-up of deposits between the plates. Such a battery would be able to hold 12.5 volts, but would not have the amperage capacity behind it to provide the reserve current. Thus making an alternator work much harder. Have you "load-tested" the battery?

 

[The Beep]

The schematic shows the alternator itself as grounded through the block. Did we also ensure there is a good engine-to-chassis, and battery-to-chassis ground connection? I hate to sound like a broken record because I've said it so many times here. But DC is a different animal than a/c. "If it don't work, check power. If it works weird, check grounds." When someone says "the lights dim, of flicker when I do this", it makes me wonder. The alternator charges the battery. Duh. But the battery also provides a "smoothing-effect" to the system voltage. This can also be called "float". This battery "float" insulates the accessories from the on/off nature of the voltage regulator. Without it, everything would slow (fans) or dim (lights), or speed-up and brighten as the alternator cycles. It is possible for a battery to be internally-shorted by a collision of the plates inside, or build-up of deposits between the plates. Such a battery would be able to hold 12.5 volts, but would not have the amperage capacity behind it to provide the reserve current. Thus making an alternator work much harder. Have you "load-tested" the battery?

Very true a good block to battery and body to battery ground is required. And be sure to ground that "spare" field terminal on the alternator....

 

[70redbee]

I agree with some of the others, you have the wrong regulator. I believe you need the 70 up electronic regulator to match the alternator. Hope this is a cheap fix for you. Electrical is not my cup of tea either and it drives me crazy. Then you read all you can and then become more confused by the minute. Good luck, hope you figure this out while you still have some hair and sanity left.

 

[paladin06]

Conflicting messages here guys, replace the alternator or regulator or just ground the unused field post on the VR?

 

[The Beep]

Conflicting messages here guys, replace the alternator or regulator or just ground the unused field post on the VR?

All grounds are confirmed good? Block, body and alternator? Then...

First cheapest fix is ground the unused field terminal on the ALTERNATOR (not regulator).

Second if that doesn't fix it is check / replace the voltage regulator.

Finally if the above brings no joy I would get a 69 single field alternator....

Or if you really just want to spend money replace the engine harness with a 1970, new electronic VR and use the 70's era alternator you have. But really though unless there is some deeper hidden issue with the existing engine harness the first and second items should take care of it.

 

[paladin06]

Tired been in the heat all day. More tomorrow.

Thanks everyone. You are the BEST!!

 

[The Beep]

Any luck?