1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......
- Thread starter Moparfiend
- Start date
To maximize caster I am using Moog’s k7103 offset/eccentric bushing fix kit. My understanding is that this offset bushings was designed for camber adjustments on cars with front end “issues” but is being used to maximize caster when put in this way. The idea is to move the ball joint of the UCA rearwards. My drawing isn’t very good but the general concept here is the UCA will move out away from the car with the front bushing and in towards the car with the rear bushing. This will move the ball joint in an arc sweeping rearward.
Now that all the bushings are in I can prime and paint. I haven’t factory deviated anywhere in the restoration but wanted to paint the suspension differently (other than steel or black) given all the work I have put into it. I wanted something different. I am using heavy duty tractor paint in IH color.
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Will torque everything once in place then grease it up. Trying to get this done before major surgery that will F me up either permanently or at least 3 mos.
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Thanks goes out to @JimKueneman for helping me get my front end finished. Right in the middle of my front end build I went medical again leaving my left side disassembled and needing my rebuilt assembly installed. He graciously came over and banged it in for me! Installed my steering arms as well! Thanks so much Jim for helping me out! Still no surgery yet but after 2 nerve blocks I am no longer in that terrible cervical nerve pain thank god.
Just a precaution. That one was not like a rock like the first one. I am sure it didn’t need but I just tacked it. I tend to overkill and make sure everything is 110%.
Phantomx
Well-Known Member
I hate to say, but looking at your pics I’d say you have the offset bushings installed opposite of what you want. The forward bushing should have the bolt hole toward the inside of the car and the rear should have the bolt hole toward the outside of the car. Your arrows should indicate the direction the thick side of the bushing should point.
Travis..
Travis..
Hey Travis thanks for letting me know about the bushings. I went around and around with this quite a bit.
In the end I had realized that they were reversed! I decided to go with a central normal bushing in the back and forward I went with the eccentric bushing.
Which thread number you’re referring to? I am guessing it was prior to my reversals.
Thanks, Ron.
Phantomx
Well-Known Member
Post 602 is what I was looking at
Travis..
Travis..
Thank you. Yes I need to update it. That was before I caught it. I used this diagram that helped me confirm I was incorrect. I suppose I should update that post!
Phantomx
Well-Known Member
Cool, I didn’t want you to waste time and money trying to get it aligned only to have to tear it down and do it again.
Travis..
Travis..
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
What brand trunk seal did you use? It looks like there’s several available from $29 to $130. Any differences that you are aware of?
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What I used. Worked perfectly... Certainly not "spec'd" correctly, but correct profile and fit.
Update: Am able to do light work with my cervical nerve blocks making most of the severe pain abate. I was able to execute my plan with the Airgrabber system see details below.
Because this car was not an air grabber set up. I had to buy the hood, which was quite expensive. What I didn’t realize back, then was how much all the ancillary equipment would be. Airbox, air dam mechanicals all that stuff was about $2500-$3000! So since I haven’t won the lottery yet, I needed a plan B. Plan B‘s been in the works for quite a while in my head.
This entailed an electrical drive with custom mechanical linkages. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible in the event that I get the money and can revert the stock Airgrabber system. Keep your fingers crossed that I win the lottery soon!
I know a lot of people will give me crap for not making this all original, but like I said it’s very expensive. I also understand that this setup is not going to provide me with the same type of airflow that the original system would provide as well but that’s OK. I did this for me because I always wanted this option as a kid and it’s cool factor and also the overall theme to go with my Sport Satellite concept described early on on this thread.
I used this geared drive high torque 3 RPM motor (see below). This uses an 8 mm shaft and I used 8 mm steel rods and pillow block and custom brackets and mounting plates. I didn’t want to write code and use a processor with sensors to find end points so I decided to do this using an analog method.
I set up the Rod as a crankshaft. This insures that the rotating assembly does not over or under travel hyper extending the scoop and bind up. This is a critical concept in this design. In fact, the scoop will rotate freely going up and down all day long (in either direction) if you want to.
The Electronic switch just kills the supply so you can kill it in the fully down position, fully up position or anywhere in between. It’s a worm gear motor so it locks in place when off.
For static events I can even have it going up and down very slowly all day long using an alternate battery/power source if I want. See video. I am using a pulse width controller to change speed and direction, but that’s actually not needed as the motor I selected is perfect at 3RPM’s. Direction doesn’t matter as well. So all you need is 12V and a switch!
Check out the video as well.
Because this car was not an air grabber set up. I had to buy the hood, which was quite expensive. What I didn’t realize back, then was how much all the ancillary equipment would be. Airbox, air dam mechanicals all that stuff was about $2500-$3000! So since I haven’t won the lottery yet, I needed a plan B. Plan B‘s been in the works for quite a while in my head.
This entailed an electrical drive with custom mechanical linkages. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible in the event that I get the money and can revert the stock Airgrabber system. Keep your fingers crossed that I win the lottery soon!
I know a lot of people will give me crap for not making this all original, but like I said it’s very expensive. I also understand that this setup is not going to provide me with the same type of airflow that the original system would provide as well but that’s OK. I did this for me because I always wanted this option as a kid and it’s cool factor and also the overall theme to go with my Sport Satellite concept described early on on this thread.
I used this geared drive high torque 3 RPM motor (see below). This uses an 8 mm shaft and I used 8 mm steel rods and pillow block and custom brackets and mounting plates. I didn’t want to write code and use a processor with sensors to find end points so I decided to do this using an analog method.
I set up the Rod as a crankshaft. This insures that the rotating assembly does not over or under travel hyper extending the scoop and bind up. This is a critical concept in this design. In fact, the scoop will rotate freely going up and down all day long (in either direction) if you want to.
The Electronic switch just kills the supply so you can kill it in the fully down position, fully up position or anywhere in between. It’s a worm gear motor so it locks in place when off.
For static events I can even have it going up and down very slowly all day long using an alternate battery/power source if I want. See video. I am using a pulse width controller to change speed and direction, but that’s actually not needed as the motor I selected is perfect at 3RPM’s. Direction doesn’t matter as well. So all you need is 12V and a switch!
Check out the video as well.
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I have a factory Air Grabber and HOW DARE YOU!!!
Seriously, nicely done and made to work! Impressive what a little ingenuity can do!
