2 wire alt battery relocation to trunk { not a race car }

[Denis Breland]

good morning

Doing a " 2 wire alternator " battery relocation, struggling to find out if i can just ELIMINATE the , the single alternator wire circuit , CDR relay, ignition wire. and keep the rest.

Ford starter solenoid, master shut off in trunk,
plan to run s wire to oem relay,,,,,,
battery cable to starter with a jumper,,,,,
and fuse the master disconnect,
8 guage wire to OEM relay batt conection
and leave rest of oem relay as is

the OEM alternator gets power of the BATT of OEM starter relay,

id appreciate the help,, i have spent WAY to much time and thought on this, trying to get it right first time , so it charges and dosent let out some smoke somewhere , lol

 

[vance.dykes]

you will need a constant out put solenoid not a momentary solenoid . the master disconnect should be for a charging system also.

 

[RemCharger]

What is the reason for needing the disconnect.
Nhra rules?
Wanting a long term disconnect for storage?

 

[Denis Breland]

Thanks,
What is the reason for needing the disconnect.?

When i park in the garage i like to disconnect battery and storage and just piece of mind.
relocating battery for fresh air intakes.

you will need a constant out put solenoid not a momentary solenoid:

If i where to put the bat disconnect between battery and ford solenoid would that accomplish what im trying to do.,
the OEM relay would get constant 12v from batt side of ford relay, like it original did ??? sorry should be simple , but im making harder the then has to be

every post i see is for 1 wire alternator.

thanks again





67 coronet 512

 

[RemCharger]

Just run a master switch in the heavy + wire to the starter, and an 8 gauge up to the original start relay from the starter stud.
No need for all the other hoopla.

 

[Denis Breland]

i hear what your saying,, i wanted to keep the big battery wire dead while just cruising, not live all the time, wire is IN the car, not under, but i agree, im sick of the hoopla so far.

 

[Don Frelier]

I was able to fit 4" hoses in my Charger with the battery in place.

 

[Denis Breland]

That looks good,, that's what I'm looking to do , is that a 26 rad , Mine doesnt seem to have that kind of room

Edit: after a better look, your into the fender well dr side or does it go to the front

 

[Don Frelier]

22" radiator but I cut 4" round openings in the core support something most wouldn't do.
But this setup worked perfectly inlet air temperature near ambient.

 

[Denis Breland]

just finished installing the engine, ill have to double check. I have 26 rad. i dont mind cutting the support, i need to get some cooler air in there

 

[Don Frelier]

Probably can't fit a 4" in between the battery and the radiator then

 

[Crackedback]

Simple answer, yes.

You can remove the CD relay and run the charge cable direct to the battery side of your ford solenoid or battery + teminal.

If you are running a VR and all, wire it up OEM normal approach.

 

[Denis Breland]

Crackedback,

thank you,
just what i want to hear, that CDR part was confusing me.

 

[Crackedback]

DO NOT attach the OEM black charge wire at your alternator. That needs to be left off.

No problem. Just remember that you want to isolate the charge line and battery + from the other side of the cutoff switch/wire to OEM starter relay.

 

[451Mopar]

View attachment 1474835good morning

Doing a " 2 wire alternator " battery relocation, struggling to find out if i can just ELIMINATE the , the single alternator wire circuit , CDR relay, ignition wire. and keep the rest.

Ford starter solenoid, master shut off in trunk,
plan to run s wire to oem relay,,,,,,
battery cable to starter with a jumper,,,,,
and fuse the master disconnect,
8 guage wire to OEM relay batt conection
and leave rest of oem relay as is

the OEM alternator gets power of the BATT of OEM starter relay,

id appreciate the help,, i have spent WAY to much time and thought on this, trying to get it right first time , so it charges and dosent let out some smoke somewhere , lol

What you have in this schematic would be fine. It all depends on what you want to protect.

As mentioned, the Alternator Continuous duty Relay is really just killing power from the battery in the trunk to the alternator up front when OFF/Disconnected, so one less live wire to the engine compartment in case of a accident, or if you don't want and power to the engine compartment that could be used to hot wire the car?
For something that is not raced, or worried about hot wiring the car, the CD Relay is a bit overkill and could be removed.
Sort of the same for the remote starter solenoid. Great if you want to keep power out of the engine compartment when off, but more wires to route.

If your car has automatic transmission, a battery bulkhead connector fits pretty nice in the clutch rod hole in the firewall if you run the battery cable inside the car.

If the alternator has external voltage regulator, you might want to wire/activate the regulator through a trunk mounted relay so the regulator can better sense the battery voltage without all the wiring losses.

 

[Denis Breland]

Thanks everyone for the input, i can make a plan with now with this info.
Thanks again

 

[Denis Breland]

just a update,, i basically followed the diagram to a tee, works fine , extra wires and cost. hadn't looked at the msd and retard switch wiring till a day ago,, Not sure why, but they call for for 12v to battery ??.
not about to run another wire , enough already. just picked up switched 12v off back of alternator. thanks again ,

WOW, i use to drive it everyday, not sure im liking it, pretty radical , like RACE CAR , maybe it'll grow on me , have ping issues WOT, 10.7 comp trying to run 91 oct,, , going to be drilling throttle plates, idle is bad ,idle screws don't make a difference. 16 base, 18 centrifugal, rattles pretty bad. bad engine planning,, was dead set set on 240 trick flows,, and piston selection got me to 10.7. .050 quench, going to 40 quench just raises compression. any way that's were I'm at, thanks again

 

[RJRENTON]

you will need a constant out put solenoid not a momentary solenoid . the master disconnect should be for a charging system also.

What is a "constant output solenoid"??.....a constant output solenoid is a direct connection. Out of curiosity, WHY or what are you trying to accomplish and, if I may ask, for what purpose ?? IMO...there is no need to disconnect the alternators output.....for what purpose?......
BOB RENTON

 

[vance.dykes]

What is a "constant output solenoid"??.....a constant output solenoid is a direct connection. Out of curiosity, WHY or what are you trying to accomplish and, if I may ask, for what purpose ?? IMO...there is no need to disconnect the alternators output.....for what purpose?......
BOB RENTON

on my work trucks with a lift gate if i use a starter solenoid [momentary solenoid ] will fail in a short time. but with a constant out put solenoid will take power all the time witch is made for use with an alternator

 

[gkent]

The safest is to put the master disconnect between the battery and Ford solenoid with the solenoid being your first connection point for anything else. This way there is NO live wire anywhere when you disconnect the battery.

You could also run the alt and ign over to the starter relay as your junction point and run a single heavy gauge back to the output side if the master disconnect.