2002 dodge ram economy

[kb67mopar]

Beware of some issues with these. Starts as a "lifter" noise. Then your rocker arms fall off! They have a newer rocker design that sprays more oil, but some folks say that isn't it. Some theories are that the valve stems carbon-up, and dont travel all they way up [I find this doubtful]. Another scenario is that the hardened valve seats are backing out of the aluminum heads [likely!] That would put play in the valvetrain! Also, exhaust manifolds can crack, or break bolts. Is this the exhaust manifold, or is this the head deforming? Alot to think about. I'll check and see if there are any TSB's on the mileage. There may be some computer updates for them.

I rebuilt the heads for mine because I was putting in HO springs and cams but I find that the biggest complaint with the falling off of rockers was due to collapsed lifters. There were a few with valve seat issues but not many. Mine ticked a small amount on start up but quickly stopped after that and was never a problem. It definitely requires more maintenance then the old LA based motors but was a much smoother engine, better torque curve and slightly better fuel economy in the smaller trucks. Anybody who bought one in the Ram and expected good performance and economy is kidding themselves. 230 HP and 5500 lbs never = good performance.

My only recommendation was do not buy an 01, they tended to spin a rod bearing if the owner didn't use synthetic oil. These engines don't like conventional oil and will run forever on synthetic.

 

[scotts74birds]

Good advice, and info KB! The newer Chryslers seem to be problematic with Dino-oil. They have alot of hot-spots in the heads. Many new motors are spec'd with 5w20 oil! Synthetic, with a 5-7k change interval, is just fine. If you are bored on the weekend, then just throw in a new filter halfway so you'll sleep better.

 

[Cranky]

Must be a 2wd? I get about 16/20 with mine - weighs right around 7000lbs.

Yup....have no need for a 4wd.

Good advice, and info KB! The newer Chryslers seem to be problematic with Dino-oil. They have alot of hot-spots in the heads. Many new motors are spec'd with 5w20 oil! Synthetic, with a 5-7k change interval, is just fine. If you are bored on the weekend, then just throw in a new filter halfway so you'll sleep better.

Ran Mobil 1 in our 2000 Durango but we short tripped it so much that the oil was pretty dirty in 3000 miles so I went back to running Rotella 15-40. The plan was to run at least 9000 miles with an oil filter change at every 3k. Just now have 80k on the thing and so far so good and some oil changes go to 5k but never over. The car has a teen in it with 3.9 gears and runs a 16.40

 

[scotts74birds]

Hi Cranky! I havent done this with 4.7 heads yet, but I have done it with 2.7 heads. I propped the heads up this week at 45 degrees. I poured a measured amount of used oil over them repeatedly. They held an amazing amount of 8oz of oil in the pockets! These are areas that dont drain, and just sit there and cook! As this oil cooks, its surface tension increases, and it acts "stickier" to other oil passing by it. Holding, or slowing other oil, and exposing it to more heat, for longer periods. Very bad for Dino-oil! The ad we all saw about 20 years ago, with dino-oil, and Mobile-1, in a frying pan, is pretty accurate with the newer and hotter motors!

 

[kb67mopar]

Hi Cranky! I havent done this with 4.7 heads yet, but I have done it with 2.7 heads. I propped the heads up this week at 45 degrees. I poured a measured amount of used oil over them repeatedly. They held an amazing amount of 8oz of oil in the pockets! These are areas that dont drain, and just sit there and cook! As this oil cooks, its surface tension increases, and it acts "stickier" to other oil passing by it. Holding, or slowing other oil, and exposing it to more heat, for longer periods. Very bad for Dino-oil! The ad we all saw about 20 years ago, with dino-oil, and Mobile-1, in a frying pan, is pretty accurate with the newer and hotter motors!

With the increase in emissions regulations and our demand for power hotter is the name of the game. The hotter it runs the better the complete burn and we all know cold fuel into a hot engine makes HP. On top of that raw materials prices and competitive market results in making a casting as thin as possible and emissions usually dictates geometry to an extent. So all these things combined means you just can't run them the way they did back in the 60's, 70's and even 80's. Times change and so does technology...oil included.

I personally run Amsoil in my vehicles right now but also have run mobil 1 with great results....in the long run is cheaper too.