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22" radiator

Recently Ive been searching through alot of threads on here about cooling issues. Cant seem to find a straight answer to my overheating problem. I have a 22" 3 row aluminum radiator from Summit in there now that cooled the 318 I used to have just fine, but its not adequate at cooling my 440. On 80+ degree days, the motor heats up at stoplights but usually cools back down when moving as long as I dont drive it too hard. I am currently running a 7 blade flex fan and a shroud. Can anyone tell me if there is a 22" radiator that will cool my 440 with 727 in my 65 coronet, or will I have to upgrade to a 26" rad?

My 67 Coronet 440 build ran and cooled fine in Texas on a 110' degree day in the city. Idling too long did get it to around 200 in traffic but by no means did it start to stumble ect....timing could be your issue sir.
 
My 67 Coronet 440 build ran and cooled fine in Texas on a 110' degree day in the city. Idling too long did get it to around 200 in traffic but by no means did it start to stumble ect....timing could be your issue sir.
And like I have posted in many threads lately, 200° is not overheating.
 
Are you using vacuum advance? What’s the timing set at? How big is your cam? Any idea what centerline it’s installed at? Those seems to be big drivers of engines making heat that’s tough to get rid of.
I am using vac advance. Initial timing is 18 and all in is around 34-35. Cam is a xe268h Installed at 106 centerline.
 
I had cooling problems with my re-done 318 with the stock radiator and added a 7-blade, oem shroud, and then read up about how the mix of coolant to anti-freeze ratio and motors oils impact temperature. With the rebuild, I needed a high zinc oil and what I could get off the shelf was 20/50w. After reading about the science of engine oils, I was amazed by how often this weight isn't advised for street driving or unless doing a lot of racing. Also noticed the oil pressure was always super high. Heavier weight oils hold more heat as does a higher ratio of anti-freeze. I went to 10/30w and reduced the coolant mix to around 70/30 and added 'water-wetter'. After the other do's, I found reduced engine temp both cruising and in slow driving/stopping conditions. Anyway, your engine and mine are apples & oranges but this could be something to explore before having to do more aggressive measures assuming you run a heavy weight oil and standard coolant mix. I was about ready to get a new radiator; but these measures dropped the temp enough for me to leave that go. I only drive the car in warmer months it sits in a heated garage so lower anti-freeze isn't an issue.
Im running Vr1 10w30 and a 50/50 coolant mix currently.
 
Has anyone else here used a Summit brand radiator? Ive heard mixed reviews about them. Im starting to wonder if I would be better off switching to an oem rad or a higher quality aluminum one.
 
What range is the thermostat. When is the last time you replaced it. Just My two cent's. Had a motor in a truck crate motor new it wanted to run hot and found out had the wrong psi Radiator cap. Replaced it and problem solved.
 
What RPM are you all in?
 
200° is not overheating. Straight water boils at 212 ° at sea level. 50/50% distilled water/coolant ratio and a system that holds at least 16 lbs. of pressure is considerably higher. The higher the compression, timing, rpm use, the higher the standard operating temperature. Your normal may be 210-220 ° Flex fans are inefficient and dangerous. The factory designed all applications of engines including 6 Paks and Hemi's to use a seven blade fan and thermal clutch with a properly fitting shroud. Don't try to out smart the factory. the fans are only for idle and low speed airflow. Once you reach 45 mph, the car is moving faster than the fans can suck air, therefore the fan clutch should now freewheel, freeing up the HP it would take to turn the fan. Modern engines are designed to operate at higher temps to keep the emission downs, compared to the "old days" when engines were built loose and used oil and smoked. ( remember that ?) Service stations had large oil displays on the pump islands and sold a lot of oil.
 
200° is not overheating. Straight water boils at 212 ° at sea level. 50/50% distilled water/coolant ratio and a system that holds at least 16 lbs. of pressure is considerably higher. The higher the compression, timing, rpm use, the higher the standard operating temperature. Your normal may be 210-220 ° Flex fans are inefficient and dangerous. The factory designed all applications of engines including 6 Paks and Hemi's to use a seven blade fan and thermal clutch with a properly fitting shroud. Don't try to out smart the factory. the fans are only for idle and low speed airflow. Once you reach 45 mph, the car is moving faster than the fans can suck air, therefore the fan clutch should now freewheel, freeing up the HP it would take to turn the fan. Modern engines are designed to operate at higher temps to keep the emission downs, compared to the "old days" when engines were built loose and used oil and smoked. ( remember that ?) Service stations had large oil displays on the pump islands and sold a lot of oil.
I wanted to go with a factory fan and clutch but there isnt enough room in front of the rad for the clutch.
 
I had a 26inch Champion Aluminum radiator with dual fans would run over 200. Then switched to OER radiator and steel fan no clutch 180 all day
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